11022032102 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

Very easy and cheap repair. Hardest part was getting cabinet back on. Watched u tube video before and easy and quick to do take off cabinet, in clip motor and slide new motor coupler in. Put back together

Well, after resolving Part Select (PS) shipping issues (PS sent me two refrigerator glass shelves instead of a Tub Spring); And as it turns out they sent me the wrong part for the suspension pads, which I have returned for credit. It takes 3-4 weeks to obtain your credit BTW.

Well after removing the cabinet, agitator, wash basket, plastic tub, all 5 springs, & pump suction line, I was able to access the Tub wear pads and suspension pads. As it turns out the suspension pads looked good.
Thank God, as PS had sent wrong parts. I replaced the wear pads, the 5 springs, and reversed the disassembly process. Took about 6 hours.
But washer works fine now, still vibrates, but does not walk across floor any more.

Second time I did this. Same repair about 4 years ago. Pretty easy. Take the cabinet enclosure off, take pump off, remove motor and replace the coupling. Since the coupling is now reinforced with metal, a little more difficult to get on the drive shafts of the motor and the clutch drive?. $20.00 saved me $500.00 for now with a relatively easy repair and hopefully with reinforced part, it will last a little longer.

First I removed the cover but not the back. Then I removed the water pump by useing a flat head screwdriver to remove the clips. I did not have to disconect the water hoses. Then I used a driver to remove the motor clips and pulled the motor off. You need to put something under the motor to support it until you remove the screws holding the brackets. The coupling came off with ease. I replaced it with the new one using a spark plug socket to tap it onto the motor. I did the same thing to the other half that attatched to the gear assembly. It will be easier to put the black rubber center on the gear assembly then line it up with the motor by turning the blades. Then I put everything back in reverse order. Very easy job.

Thank you for asking me how it went. the washer would not spin or pump water out, so I put it on its side and saw that the coupling was bad.
so I found you on the internet, thankyou very much, and put a order in for the part. well waiting for the part, I took the old coupling out it was easy, there was two metal bands one on each side of the motor took them off two bolts holding a plate on, and had old coupling in hand. and it was easy to put back with the new coupling. I enjoyed working on it. Dennis

Removing top console control panel, deataching 2 clips and removiong the entire box to get access to the agitator and the direct drive, one part on the top and other on the bottom of the washer,removing top cap of the spinner got access to the agitator. Using 1/2" socked and pliers remove & rep[lace the agitator. for the direct coupling: remove the water pump (2 clips) 1/4" socked & screw driver remove the electrical Motor, remove & replace the direct coupling, put all removed parts back toguether, reasembly the box ataching clips on place, console panel Install, perform operational check, was good I have the washer running like a new machine.

It took me awhile to figure out how to get the shell off the washer frame. (I didn't know about flipping it on its back). Once the moving parts were revealed, the water pump was staring at me with both ports. I turned the machine on and saw that the leak was coming from the pump.
1. Cut power
2. unclipped pump with pry with screwdriver
3. detatched both hoses - flood ensued
4. gently pulled pump off transmission
5. replaced pump

I reccommend doing this repair with empty tub.

Replacing the clutch was easy but unfortunately did not fix the washing machine. I couldn't get the agitator loose at first, but it came loose when I unbolted the motor and transmission assembly. After replacing the clutch and reassembling the motor, I tilted the washer back up and found that the basket in the center under the agitator was cracked all the way around and that was why it wasn't spinning. It was also why the clutch was burning--trying to spin a basket that wasn't centered in the drum anymore. This washer is over 25 years old, so I decided not to replace the basket, since a replacement is about $400. A good attempt at an inexpensive repair, but unsuccessful.

It was a miracle. We were going to get rid of the washing machine because it made so much noise and rattled the whole house. It also 'walked' across the room with every load.
I simply replaced the wear pads (2 of them were already worn away), and now it is as quiet as when it was new. AMAZING!

Old machine and vibrations are still there but weaker. Seemed to turn counter clock wise. Put a 4x4 board behind in order to stop the twisting, and keep hoses safe from vibrating and causing wear. Stays fairly stable now.

There are 4 tabs that come from the main agitator body through the center & lock into the centerpiece that holds the directional cogs. They have a tab similar to a cable tie that can only be put on once. They need to be clipped before it will dissassemble & reassembly is difficult because they need to be timed to reattach the round center cog plate. Maybe cut off 2 of them & taper the other 2 them for easier reassembly.

snapped off the 2 springs on the water pump,took off hoses with pliers,took off the 2 little screws on the motor springs.snapped off the 2 springs on the motor,and the motor came off.took out the drive coupling,it just slides off...then reverse the procedure,and you are done...

I followed the instructions in the video on the part page (part #PS11741239), which was also conveniently linked in the item shipped email. The replacement of the part was very easy ... the hard part was balancing the washer again (kitchen floor seems to have sunk in the middle). Back to normal function without having to suffer a flood first. Thanks.

This model is a compact / apartment size washer and the repair was fairly easy. The lid is held on by 2 spring clips on the front and 2 tabs on the rear. I used a screwdriver to pop the top off the clips, removed the screws on the tabs, unplugged the switch and set the top aside. Took out 2 screws (all screws are 5/16" hex head) on the left side panel (facing the front of the machine) and set it to the side. The pump is clearly visible at this point. Tipped the washer and propped it up for easier access. Removed the 2 hose clamps (set a pan underneath first) and the pump is held in place by 2 spring clips. Popped those off and the pump came right out. Put the new pump in, snapped the spring clips on, put the hose clamps back in place, the side panel and the lid. Not at all hard to do. About 30 to 45 minutes and I was doing laundry again.

First, disconnect from power & turning off the water. Then, accessed the part by tipping the unit back enough to work. Remove the hoses by loosening the spring clamps. Here is where things got a bit sticky. The pump motor shaft had corroded enough to make removal of the pump a wrestling match of sub-WWF levels. Once forced off, additional time was spent removing corrosion from the shaft to facilitate fitting the new unit. A little lube was used here. Re-assembly was quick & washer was righted, plugged in and returned to service. It is a simple repair which can, with a little acting ability, be portrayed as a monumental task requiring super-human strength & the wisdom of Solomon. I played the part well enough to merit a huckleberry pie for my effort & sacrifice! Thanks!