11020097992 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

Removed top cap of agitator and pulled out the inner cap. Spread a pair of needle nose pliers and placed them in square holes on each side of nylon fitting. Unscrewed nylon fitting and removed top half of agitator. Replaced directional cogs/dog ears and put agitater back together. Works like new. Easy fix.

PS Received parts in 72 hours. $10.00 bucks and never left the house.

It was easy, take off the cap, then loosen the nut. Take it apart, change the dog ears, put back together. It was done.

1. Need mop, bucket to catch leftover water in machine before you remove old hose. 2. Removed old hose by removing clamp. 3. Dried up any remaining water around fixture before attaching new hose. 4. Slide clamp to bottom of hose before attaching to machine. 5. Attached hose and clamp to machine where old hose was removed from. Make sure clamp is secure. (Please note that clamp that came with the new hose was too big. I used the old one. Worked perfectly). 6. Finally run a little water in you washer, then run out to test tightness and there is no leaks.

Washer was not agitating. My husband did not have a clue what to look for, but he took it apart and noticed two of the four directional cogs were stripped. Did an internet search and found the part on your website and thought we would give it a try since the part/shipping was under $20. The parts came in three days and my washer lives on. Was ready to get a new one since it is 18 years old, but I will not wait. Excellent website with all instructions and parts breakdown of the washer.

Removed Softner dispenser and cap. With a 3/8" socket wrench and extension And 7/16" socket I took out the screw holding the agitator and removed top section of agitator. Turned upside down and removed the rubber grommet that holds the cogs in place. Replaced cogs and reinstalled grommet. Aligned top part of agitator with 2 tabs and put back in place and secured with 7/16" screw. Replaced cap And dispenser. Good to go. Works perfectly. Very easy repair.

Half inch extension. Removed plastic set piece. Remove agitator cap. Remove ring remove worn cogs. Replaced new cogs Replace lock ring, back together. 10 minutes

Removed broken hose and replaced with new hose. My washer will be 21 years old in January.

I actually didn't remove any of the panels. I tipped the washer at a 45 degree angle to the back and side to release the motor clamps, unhooked the power to the motor and removed the two drain pipes from the motor.

Once I had all of that removed, I was able to pull the motor away from the transmission and put the new coupling pieces on. The hardest part was holding the motor up (it is fairly heavy and cumbersome to hold while the machine is tipped like that). The pieces didn't go on too easily either. It would have been ideal to have at least the front panel off to use a hammer more easily. I did manage to get it on using a socket and a hammer. With some light taps it went on.

Next I put the hoses back on, the power, the bottom motor clamp, and then wrestled for another 30 minutes getting the top motor clamp on.

The clamps are the metal like springs that hook into the transmission and then spring tighten the motor to the transmission. Then there is a little screw that holds it in place... Not easy to see from any angle, and that is where having the front panel off would be ideal.

I've NEVER worked on a washer before and I accomplished this by myself in about 2 hours. I think if you are sure this is the problem, fix it yourself. Best 20 bucks and 2 hours I spent this month by saving a couple hundred on a new washer or repair person.

I had no idea what the problem was...other than the drum would not spin and it made a horrible noise...so I figured the motor was still good. I figured the repair man would charge me $200 and a new washer is $300...so what have I got to lose? First, I unplugged the unit. I started by removing the top control box by removing two screws in the back of it. Once off, there are two big clips which hold the body in place. That came off easy. I removed the back next and now had everything out in the open. I disconnected the exit greywater pump which was easy with two snaps. I tipped the unit on the side and removed the motor - also attached with two snap on clips. Between the motor and the gearbox there is a shock absorbing coupler which consist of two white plastic rings with 3 fingers each. These interconnect with a black rubber piece. Once of the white rings was cracked in half and one of the fingers was broken off. So that easy to figure out. I ordered a new coupling on partselect on Friday afternoon. On the next morning, Saturday, Fedex showed up with the replacement part. I was pretty amazed at the fast service since I only paid $7 for ground shipping. Anyway, I put the new coupling on and put the whole thing back together...we've run a dozen loads since without a hiccup. Beats dumpstering the unit or calling a repairman. I spent about an hour to take it apart and about an hour to get it all back together. You definately need a good socket set, screwdrivers. Good luck.

Unplug washer. Place large old towel in floor at rear of washer. Turn off and disconnect water supply lines and allow to drip dry. Place towel in floor in front of washer. Tip washer forward onto face of washer. Unplug wiring clip connector from drive motor. Remove 2 1/4 inch head screws from spring clips on bottom of motor housing. Slowly rotate clips out of the was to drop motor. Knoch top coupling piece off agitator shaft with screwdriver and light hammer. replace coupling with 5/8 deep well socket as a driver which will fit the metal insert in the coupling and not interfere with the shaft. then drive the other coupling onto the motor shaft using light hammer and drive socket(5/8) deep well. place the rubber shock connector onto the agitator drive piece then slide the motor back into the mount position. rotate the clips vback into place. tighten 1/4 head screws in clips re-attach the wiring harness tip the washer back up onto "feet" re-attach water supply lines tighten appropriately. Plug unit into receptacle and enjoy....

I popped the dispenser cap off, pulled off the plastic cover that sits on top of the agitator directional cogs assembly, and used a socket wrench with 2 extensions on it to unscrew the nut holding the assembly in place. I misplaced my socket screwdriver and rather than try to buy a nutdriver that matched the size, I just bought a little 3/8" socket extension kit (I needed about 8" of length to be able to use a normal socket wrench). My hands are pretty big so I just had to use pliers to pull the agitator cogs assembly out. Next I just turned the assembly upside down, slipped the plastic ring off that holds the cogs in place, and put the new cogs in place of the old ones. Reassembly was just as easy. The job took about 15 minutes, and once everything was back together the agitator worked like it was brand new.

I used pliers to loosen the hose clamps and the small springs that hold the water pump to the water pump motor. The old pump then came off by simply pulling it off. The new was was the reverse. Everything worked well.
The biggest problem had been finding that the water pump was leaking. I first tried to fix it with epoxy but it is apparentlly made of nylon and the expoxy didn't stick well.
I am still annoyed that Whirlpool makes a water pum that leads so soon. The Whirlpool site showed my model number as non existent. Later, after purchasing the right one from this third party site, Whirlpool sent email that they found the model number and gave me a much higher replacement price for the pump.

Raised washer on cinder blocks high enough to get underneath, removed wiring, capacitor (because it got in the way), removed spring clips from pump, removed pump, no water spillage this way. removed clips from motor, removed motor, pulled old broken coupling rubber ring and plastic pieces out, used a spark plug driver to press new ones in place on the gear shaft and motor as they will fit tighter because they have a metal reinforcement that the original did not have, lined up the two halfs and clipped motor back on, cliped pump back on, reconnected wires again, lowered off the blocks and washed a couple loads that night.

First, disconnect from power & turning off the water. Then, accessed the part by tipping the unit back enough to work. Remove the hoses by loosening the spring clamps. Here is where things got a bit sticky. The pump motor shaft had corroded enough to make removal of the pump a wrestling match of sub-WWF levels. Once forced off, additional time was spent removing corrosion from the shaft to facilitate fitting the new unit. A little lube was used here. Re-assembly was quick & washer was righted, plugged in and returned to service. It is a simple repair which can, with a little acting ability, be portrayed as a monumental task requiring super-human strength & the wisdom of Solomon. I played the part well enough to merit a huckleberry pie for my effort & sacrifice! Thanks!

Unpluged washer. Turned washer on its side, unpluged wire harness to motor. Removed hoses to pump on motor, removed screws and nuts holding motor, then pulled out motor. Popped off old couplings,intalled new, reassembled. Piece of cake!