11044921302 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

Removed the outer spring with pliers. Pushed the bellow into the drum. Loosened the clamp on the bellow with a stub nose screwdriver. Removed the bellow. lined bellow up with soap fiting. Reversed procedure to reinstall.

Remove three screws on bottom panel lift up and remove panel.The water pump in right in front. One screw holds it in place and the input and output hoses are on the back side.The hose clamps are a little hard to take off I found that before taking the one screw off the pump remove these two lines.Putting the pump back in secure the pump with the one screw. The output line is easy the intake line can be a bit of a more work to get it on because the rubber is so thin.Getting this hose and clamp was tough. Most of all use a wet vac to remove water in washer and vac out the line to drain doing this will be water free during replacing water pump.Run a cycle to make sure the lins do not leak. The other is the people that has posted this replacement are very good

I followed your repair video explicitly, simple fix. However, one should
be careful when disconnecting the two prong electrical connector from
the heat sensor. the two black wires can pull free easily. In that case, the
rear of the female plastic wired connector must be extracted to allow the two black wires to be "pushed" into the narrow slot which displaces the
wire insulation and allows for a good electrical connection. If a punch tool is not available a pair of needle nose pliers works. Also, observe
the orientation slots on both the male andfemale connectors - they
connect one way only! I set the washer on it's face while effecting this
repair to better see what I was doing (eyesight not as good as it used to be). Thanks for the timely support!

UNPLUG WASHER ,SLIDE WASHER OUT FROM THE WALL. TAKE THE BACK OFF ,THEN TAKE PANET OFF IN THE FRONT. TWIST OLD SHOCKS ON THE TOP FIRST THEN TWIST BOTTOMS AND THE SHOCK WILL CUM OUT. PUT NEW SHOCK IN BOTTOM FIRST TWIST TILL YOU HEAR OR FEEL THE SHOCK SEAT ITSELF THEN INSTALL ON THE BOTOOM OF THE TUB.

Factory hose clamps were awkward to maneuver. I used automotive radiator hose clamps instead. They worked great.

1. After ordering I watched the video on the page for the part, the guy showed exactly what to do.
2. The day the part was to arrive I leaned the washer back and opened the lower front, based on the video on the page for the part, and removed the old shock absorber.
3. Part arrived, and I put in the new shock.
4. I ran a light load in the washer and it worked.
5. I put the washer back together and put in place.
6. I have since run a full load and it has worked well.

Note: In case I messed up the shock I was putting in, I bought 2 but did not need the 2nd one. I have kept it, just in case my 20 year old Whirlpool might need another one in the future.

Easily. 4 Screws. 2 Clamps.

As easy as 123 two torx screws removed old pieces and install the new one and like that ready for another 15 years.

Unplugged power cord, turned off both water valves on the wall, Disconnected the water hoses o the back where they are attached to the water inlet valve. Note: there will likely be some water left in the hoses. Then removed top lid of washer (this is a front load washer) by removing the 3 nut screws on the back of the lid and sliding it to the back and lifting off.. Disconnected the small hose that is attached to the water inlet valve by squeezing the hose clamp and sliding the hose off. Removed the 4 wires connected to the water inlet valve (marked each one with a number in order) then removed the Phillips head screw on the back of the machine holding the water inlet valve, sliding the valve to the right, . Removed valve, and replaced with new one, and re-installed by reversing order of removal.

2 clamps and its off, problem is if you have average size hands you will struggle in getting the back clamp on and off.

I had units stacked so I had to take the dryer off, pull 3 screws from back, slide cover back and the water valve is right there, easy to change. I have not had the problem since then.

I purchased a new bellows from this site I followed their instructions. Just tricky getting the inner clamp on aligned and tightened.

Pull spring wire on front. Remove large hose lamp at tub. Reinstall in reverse order.

Repair was described as a simple 5 minute job following the enclosed directions. There were no directions included. Customer service replied they could not provide any instructions. I located a technical manual online and determined the steps necessary to replace the baffles. While some may just click them in, a proper repair requires the control pannel and machine housing to be removed. Then the tub assembly must be removed and the plastic tub separated from the basket. Three screws (one for each baffle must be installed. (I recommend using blue loctite to keep the screws from backing out). The entire process must then be reversed. This is a slightly complicated (note the pencil is to mark the locations of clips for ease of reinstallation. I am an Engineer and this process took over 2 hours and required a significant amount of space to lay out the parts as the machine was totally disassembled. This assembly is best accomplished with 2 people and an entire afternoon without interruption. It can be done by anyone with some mechanical skills, but find the consumer services technical manual first and be prepared to keep track of a lot of small and large parts. This is not the simple 5 minute job described by others (unless you just want to snap the baffles on the basket and not lock them down). In that case go ahead and order a few more sets as the clips will break and the baffles will slide off and you will be replacing them about every 6 months.

First I removed the retainer ring that holds the outside bellows on the frame of the front washer.
I then pushed the bellows inside of the drum of the washing machine in-order to get to the clamp that holds the bellows on the inside of the drum. To pull the clump I had to use a stubby screwdriver and socket drive to loosen the clamp. Once the clamp is loosen I was able to pull the bellows off, of the drum and out of the washing machine. Installation was the reverse of removal.