7MKTWS300DW0 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

A detailed Service Technician Service Manual is hidden inside the machine on the front panel. It is hidden by the bleach dispenser input. It gives a list of fault codes and instructions for calibration after repair, resetting fault codes, and a manual test mode for stepping the machine through each mode on command. The Tachometer failed which would not let the machine come up to maximum spin speed. The tachometer is part of the solenoid actuator that shifts the transmission. It is not specifically called out in the manual. Any failure causes the lid lock light to blink which gives the appearance of a lid lock failure

Pulled off the dispenser. Used socket set to remove bolt. Removed entire agitator out of washer. Placed both feet on bottom of agitator and then pulled up on the upper agitator. It took some muscle due to the years of washer use. I used a flat-head screwdriver to weaken the plastic clips holding down the old bearing-driven cam. Once I got the upper agitator off, the guts were easy to pull out. Then I just re-assembled with the 3 new parts (the Cam Driven, the Dog Ears, and the Bearing-Driven Cam).

Well, first investigated and found loose nut on drive clutch. First take off the two screws with nut drive then cover off using a screwdriver blade to snap off the cover. Then socket ratchet to take off the nut on drive clutch. take off belt by slowly rotating the drive gear. two screws that hold the electronics to the upper drive clutch and put aside, so you can snap off the cover for drive clutch on upper part with screwdriver and off the parts come and install whole unit back as took it apart. Line up the new upper clutch so that is position as was before. (Using parts diagram helps a lot as www. partsselect.com has for you or Maytag.com.) Then put the electronic part board back on and the gear and nut. Make sure it is tight by several attempts to make sure it's snugged up good and then slowly roll belt back on the pulley and motor drive. Put your cover guard back on with two screws and done.

The repair was easy, first you take out the fabric softener dispenser, you will then see a plastic cap at the bottom. the plastic cap pulls right out. Once you remove plastic cap you will see the top of a 11mm screw. Use an 11mm socket with 6 inch extension to remove the screw. The screw is a fine thread so it takes alot of turns to unscrew. After removing screw the whole agitator should pull out of washing machine. The agitator has two parts, lets just say a top and a bottom. Once out of the machine turn the agtitator upside down and tap the top part with a rubber mallet, it will fall off easily and the cam will come out with it. Once you have done this you will see how easy it is to replace the cam and put everything back together. My washer works like new. my only trouble was finding the part, until i found this web-site Part Select, The Whirlpool site did not even offer a diagram for my washer. So thank you Part Select from me and coworkers for the part and fast delivery. I can now wash my clothes again. Yeah !!!

Easy, just followed the repair video. Recommend also ordering the drive belt. Bought one locally during my repair.

Removed top cap and one nut from agirtator then removed complete assembly. Replaced new assembly nut and cap.

Repair was simple, after finding the correct part from Partselect. Exact match. Old part out with removal of one bolt, new agitator assembly installed in five minutes. Works great and saved me from buying a new washer. Cost of repair about $80.00, replace washing machine, about $600.00.

First I removed the top of the agitator and then used a socket and ratchet to unscrew the bolt and put the new one on and tightened up the bolt, real easy.

On my Whirlpool washing machine I first pulled off the top cap piece of the agitator. No clips it just popped off.
Second I reached down inside the agitator and pulled straight up on a dome-shaped piece that was a little difficult to get out but it has two metal handles that allowed me to hook my fingers around it. Once I pulled hard enough it came out.
Third I used my left hand to hold the base of the agitator still while using a socket to break lose the big nut down inside the agitator. After getting the nut off I pulled straight up on the base of the agitator and pulled the whole unit out of the washer. Here's where I got stuck. I wasted about 45min trying to pry open the little plastic tabs down inside the agitator that hold the cam in place. What I finally did that I should have tried first to step on the base with both feet and pull up hard on the agitator cylinder (that has the spiral fins on it) at it popped off and popped off the cam at the same time. After that reassembling everything with the new cam was straight forward (just reversing all the steps).
I hope this helps you.

This was a learning experience but it appears to have worked out in the end. Our 3 1/2 year old washer was not agitating much and I attributed that to a loose bolt. I would tighten the bolt and it would work ok for a load or two and then stop agitating. I would find that the bolt was loose again. I took a number of steps to try to get the bolt to stay on tight - threadlock, a new bolt, more threadlock, and applying progressively more force on the bolt, with no better results. Yet the repair guys on you tube were saying the bolt only needs to be snug, not super tight - something was amiss. I even went so far as to secure the basket with a rope so I could use two hands on the socket wrench (please don't do this). But when I tried the washer again there was no agitation at all! I observed the agitation output in manual test mode and the bolt was turning in lock step with the shaft but the agitator wasn't turning at all. That's when I suspected that the problem was actually a worn lower agitator. Trouble was that now I couldn't seem to get the bolt off. Turning the wrench caused the shaft itself to rotate so I couldn't loosen the bolt from the shaft. I thought I broke the washer. Then I considered that maybe the shaft was rotating because the washer was in an agitation mode when I turned it off. I went back into manual test mode, made the washer spin, then turned it off. Fortunately, this worked. The shaft was again stationary and, albeit with great difficulty, I got the bolt off.

I removed the agitator, and as a pro would have figured out long before, the ridges inside the top of the lower agitator were almost completely worn down. I realized then that the contact between these ridges and the splines on the shaft is what is supposed to cause the lower agitator to move with the shaft. The purpose of the bolt is just to keep the agitator in the correct position and from coming off the shaft. I had been trying to compensate for the worn agitator ridges by over-tightening the bolt, creating some contact at the top of the shaft. This would work for a little while, then the agitator would start slipping, and the slipping agitator was acting just like a wrench loosening the bolt (until my stupid rope trick, that is.)

So I ordered a new agitator (only the lower agitator was bad, but the price of an entire agitator isn't a lot more than just the lower part and I was reading that the upper agitator parts will wear over time) and another new bolt (because my repeated attempts to over-tighten the first one I ordered had split the rubber gasket apart and worn the bolt head).

The new agitator fit snugly on the splines of the shaft so I sensed no need to use excessive force on the bolt. Just an easy one-handed snug tightening with the socket wrench, using the other hand to hold the lower agitator. The washer is now working again.

Removed the softerner dispenser and the inner cap and seal. Removed the mounting bolt. Pulled on Auger and entire agitator came out. I needed to separate the parts. It said to stand on the bottom and pull on the top. I am an "older" woman and after wrestling with it for an hour without success I waited for my nephew to come by to separate the two pieces. When he did, it popped apart and all the parts went flying. Poor guy thought he had broken it. After conviencing him that that was what I wanted it to do, he left. Dirrections weren't very clear as to what went on first and I didn't have the convience of seeing it before it flew apart. Finally put it together and replaced the bolt. To no avail, something was wrong. My sister was making the same repair at her house across the street so we double teamed it. She came over and told me that I needed to put the Bottom agitator in the machine, then the spacer thrust, then the auger, then the assembled cam and cam dogs, then the bolt. All went well and was working.......so we thought. Started a washer load and the washer started leaking water. Don't know why, still don't know why. All I did was remove everything, put it back the very same way, and it hasn't leaked since. Go figure!

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

first I removed the fabric softner and water seal from center of agitator, then I removed the bolt holding it on. All I had to do then is install new agitator with old bolt place water seal and fabric softner container back on and start washing clothes again. Very simple.

The repair was very easy. The only hard part was due to the age of the machine the cap covering the agitator assembly was stuck on the top.I had to use a very large pipe wrench to loosen it. Other than that the whole repair went very smooth. You will need an extension with the socket wrench in order to reach the screw holding down the agitator.I was very impressed with the service from Parts Select. I received my part very fast and it included everything I needed to complete the job.

First, I checked the belt before ordering and then decided to order the belt, capacitor, and clutch assembly (if I needed to replace). I replaced the belt noticing the older belt came right off and new one was tighter going on. I replaced the capacitor since I had it handy and it can be known to cause this smell also. After setting washer back up and started a cycle I noticed the spin cycle would not start properly so I thought maybe the capacitor (new one) was faulty or just not the exact match even though it was said to be. I replaced my older capacitor back on and again ran cycle and it ran great. Thus I decided to send the parts which were not used. I would recommend this site as I have used them in the past before on other items. They ship fast and have a great return policy if parts not used.