11026132412 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

1.) disconnect power to your washer. Turn off water supply and disconnect from the washer.

open the washer top and remove plastic cap from the wash plate

2.) using 7/16 socket, remove bolt from the wash plate. If you can't remove it with a socket , I recommend using impact wrench.

3.) remove wash plate ( you might need to spray penetrating oil or wd40 inside the bolt hole to loosen it.
Check to make sure the wash plate gear grooves are not worn down, if they are, replace it.

4.) using your Maytag specific spaner nut wrench, remove the spaner nut from the shaft of the gear case. This should be right underneath where the wash plate was. If you can't turn it by hand , use a rubber mallet or hammer to encourage it.

5.) some people remove the wash basket at this point. I don't think it is necessary.

6.) close your washing machine. Tape the top closed to keep it from flying open. Tilt your washer back and prop it up where you have access to the underside of the washing machine.

7) remove motor rotor bolt and pull rotor off of the motor.

8.) disconnect the two wire connectors that supply power to motor. using a socket, remove bolts that are keeping motor attached to the gear case.

9.) Now that the gear case is all the is remaining on the underside, you can remove the 4 bolts that are holding the gear case to the washer. Now try to pull gear case out.

10.) if gearcase will not pull out, lower washer back to upright position. Spray penetrating oil or wd40 around the shaft of the gearcase and allow it to sit for 5-10 minutes. Using a hammer, lightly tap on the shaft of the gearcase and it should now fall out. ( you might have to apply penetrating oil again, or apply more force with the hammer.

11.) reinstall motor to new gearcase. Insert new gear case to the washer. Reinstall bolts and reconnect power supply wires.

12. ReInstall spaner nut inside the washer, reinstall wash plate.

slipped the new drain hose on and with locking plyers slipped the wire clap in place after three trys

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

Disconnected water and unplugged. Took off top and control panel. Replaced water inlet valve with new one. Simple plug and play connections. It was easy to see the old valve was bad with rust and sediment collecting on hot side.

Nothing to it. Just remember to put the insert in the knob, NOT on the selector stem. Line up the flat part of the insert with the flat part of the stem and push the knob in place.

Don NOT ram it on the selector stem. When it's seated, don't push any more. That's all there is to it. It works. If the pointer on the knob indicates the selector is lined up correctly, but it isn't, the problem is the selector, not the knob.

Removed two screws that held the control panel from the back with a power drill. Pop the control panel loose with a screwdriver from the top of the machine with the quick disconnects. After turning both the hot and cold water off I remove the hoses with pliers removed two screws with the power drill that hold the water inlet valve in place disconnected the wire harness plug And removed water inlet valve swap, the original harness to the new water inlet valve and follow the steps backwards to finish

Turned off power and water. Removed hoses/Unplugged power. Removed screws to open and access control panel. Removed existing valve first by pinching off 6 wire connectors then screws securing valve to washer base. At this point, I replaced with new valve and reattached everything. I also added screen washers to both hoses as I suspect it was built up debris in original valve impeding water flow through valve that led to problem…

DIY'er working on a Maytag Centennial type washing machine should be aware that replacing a a transmission or agitator due to worn out splines is only half a job done well. I originally replaced my transmission due to worn splines, only to discover later that the worn agitator splines caused the new transmission splines to wear out at an accelerated rate. Transmission and Agitator should be replaced together, along with a new Agitator mounting bolt. There are plenty of video's online of how to do this repair so I won't get into that here. Just wanted to drop the above sage advice. Transmissions for these washers aren't cheap.

UNPLUG WASHER FROM WALL PLUG
Watch u tube on how to remove top and also cover on top circuit compartment
First find the service book taped inside front. PLUGand read to read codes
call up the error codes flashing
the code indicated a defective lid latch.UNPUG WASHER
went through testing the switch one of the contacts was defective and intermittent.
UNPUG WASHER unpug J connect from circuit board remove wiring and connect from lid
new wiring harness goes back same as old one and mount new lid switch. done

I used a small flat head screwdriver inserted into slots just under the cap and pried off the cap. The cap should come off very easy.
Replace with the new cap.

Popped the cap , used a socket to unscrew the bolt (it was stripped so ended up having to cut off bolt) Took off old impellar and replaced, installed a new bolt, replaced Cap and it was fixed.

My husband watched numerous YouTube videos before tackling it.

Replaced each hose. Did discover that either hose can be used for hot or cold water lines. No longer required to label hot and cold replacement hoses.

a couple of issues to get valve out and off , 15 min. install and top back on!!!