11042836200 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

Slid the washer out, took the hoses off and the back panel then the front panel, found coins in the filter tray and a baby bottle plastic cap was sealinhg the drain going into the plastic filter housing (it fits perfectly) removed all the items and put the white plastic screw cap back on the drain. Next problem was the washer walking around the laundry room, upon fixing the drain problem noticed the front shock absorber was unhooked and two on the right side of the machine had leak some grease, rehook the front shock and ordered two new ones it don't walk around anymore and works smooth and quiet now. I also have to add that Parts Select has been absolutely GREAT had the parts, delivered when promised.

I followed the guy on the video. The only parts that were tough was having the right tools and having enough space to put the new part in. The part was only 70 dollars and I was so proud that I could do it. I am not very handy so if I can do it then anyone can. Plus I saved some money!

(1) Turn off water valves (2) remove water lines (3) remove three metric star screws from top/back of washer (4) remove to plate (5) remove single screw retaining water inlet valve at back of washer (6) remove electrical connections from water inlet valve and flow meter (7) loosen hose clamps at back of soap dispenser (8) remove assembly/apply new parts (9) reverse above directions. Because the plastic nipple at the back of the soap dispenser was brittle, it partially broke on me. I applied urethane glue to the break and let it dry overnight. Next day I applied marine-grade silicone sealant around the break area. That evening I assembled and then used the washer to test for leaks. Success!

most would have thrown out the appliance ,but at $1000.00 to replace it was worth the shot to repair ,basket was under warranty (450.00 value )part damaged was the outer plastic being damaged ,washer repaired for under 150.00 and back inservice saved 850.00

The product came on time and was perfectly rapped , it took me 15 mins to install after watching you tube videos on front loader washer . I was happy I didn't have to call a service man in . . . .

I had replaced the flowmeter, but that didn't solve the problem, so I ordered the hot/cold solenoid fill part. Other than ONE screw that was unique -- the back retaining screws were nut driver screws, the one retaining screw was a torx which, of course, couldn't be seen unless you pulled the washer all the way out. Unscrewed that, unhooked the hose clamp with pliers and worried the hose off, removed the four electrical connections (which were TIGHT) and replaced the part. Turned on the water and was dismayed to get a d/l error code. After some colorful language learned from my drill sergeant 40 years ago, I realized that was "door lock" and closed the door tightly. Ran great and the Mrs. thinks I'm a hero.

I replaced the flow meter but that want it, so replaced the water inlet valve and that cured what ailed it. The only pain was that the single screw that holds the part to the washer is a torx rather than a nut like the rest of the back screws. Couldn't see it without pulling the washer all the way out. Hose clamp came off with pliers and the electrical connectors were TIGHT but came off with some effort. Replaced everything and error cleared ok.

The water inlet vavle was pretty easy to find once I took the top off. The water input hoses connect directly to it and 2 electrical connection per valve. One screw needs to be removed. The only trick is to slide the valve to the left to remove. It is captured by the sheet metal washer housing at the base of the male hose connetion.

Very easy repair, once I read the reviews and watched a couple of you tube videos. I just released the band holding the gasket in place, pulled it back, unscrewed the latch and installed a new one. Less than a 10 min job. I am glad I found this web site, thanks guys!!

Took both the screws out on the top back. Lifted up the back about 1/2 inch and slid to the back. Reached into the front of the washer where the latch was connected. Disconnected the 3 wires (plugs) attached to the latch, took out the 3 screws located inside the washer door. Took a second person just to hold the latch and bring it out after the screws were off the front inside the washer door. Put new latch in, connected the wires, put in the screws behind the washer door (3 of them) and slid the top into place and put the screws in the back. Takes longer to tell you than to do it. Remember the screw on the left side front (top) as you face the washer and remove that screw. The plastic had disintegrated on mine but am not going to replace that part until I have to.

Used nut driver to remove 3 screws from rear of washer and remove washer top. Used Torx driver to remove single screw holding valve assembly in place. Loosened hose clamp with adjustable pliers and then unplugged 6 electrical plugs. Reversed process to put everything back together. Very simple.

1. Unplugged washer. 2. Turned off water supply valves. 3. Disconnected water supply hoses from back of washer. 4. Removed three (3) screws that secure top of washer from top/back of washer. 5. Removed top of washer. 6. Disconnected water outlet line from old inlet valve assembly by releasing clamp. 7. Labeled and disconnected spade connections from old inlet valve. 8. Removed single (1) screw securing old inlet valve in place and removed valve from washer. 9. Re-assembled using new inlet valve lickety split faster than a five-legged skunk.

After diagnosing codes noticed no drain replaced pump asm

Replace old part

replaced drain pump.Saved 200$