11081476830 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

Raise the top off of the dryer with a flat blade screwdriver in each front corner of the dryer. Disconnect power to the dryer. Remove old switch and install new switch. Test door and proper operation of dryer.

Unfortunately after i replaced the new switch the drier worked well. After it stopped for the 2nd time we wanted to put a load and start the swit lost contact. It was not working.It lost the contact with the circuit. No clicking sound the drier not functional. I guess need a new switch?

unplug unit first Took water & drain hose loose, used two wheel dolly, took washer out on patio. Removed water hose. Removed two screws # 49 an laid back control unit then Removed 2 #6 Clips Top of unit, then pried back unit cover out enough to remove Water valve after removing #4 screw that holds unit to back panel ,removed hose clamp #21 an electric connections, install new water valve and put back together..DO NOT TAKE BOTTOM SCREWS FROM BACK PANEL, if so the bottom will drop.. Intake cold water valve was half stopped up. Also new water lines.

Replaced hinge switch. Still no spin cycle. Noticed hinge bearing cracked & if hinge forced into switch, spin activated. Ordered new hinge bearings.Spin cycle still didn't engage. On further examination, observed that hinge was bent. Straightened hinge & worked like a charm. Didn't really need new switch or bearings. NOTE : Avoid having washer door bang shut.Took longer than expected, but each procedure was simple.

1- Unplugged washer. 2- Turned off water supply to hoses hot and cold. (marked hoses H C) 3- Unscrewed hoses to washer. 4-Used phillips head screw driver to take out screws(2) at corners of washer. 5- Slid top of washer forward and lifted top off. 6- Took out retaining clips on each side of washer. 7- Slid frame of washer outward exposing rear panel of washer for access to water inlet valve. 8- Used 1/4" drive to take out screw to inlet valve. 9- Removed inlet valve, unplugged the two connectors and removed clamp from hose to valve. 10- Replaced new inlet valve and reversed the process to assemble washer back together. Total time for repair, about 45 minutes. I now have full running cold water to washer. Thanks guys for the video you provided. Would purchase again if needed. Thanks again!!! Water Inlet Valve with Mounting Bracket Part Number: PS334646

Followed by installation on line

I got a few hints from YouTube (how to remove the washing machine casing) and rest was very simple

received valve as ordered a simple installation. everything went well.home owner can do this repair

This should have been done under 30 minutes but when you don't have a repair manual, you have to do some guessing. I have to remove the back panel. On only thing that was hard was unspringing the two flat springs. After I got the panel off, the rest was easy and the dripping stopped. Oh, there is a screen where the hose connects to the inlet valve. If you can clean the screen often, you can continue to get a good water flow.

I had to call in to find the correct part because the online recommended part looked very different, and the one found using the model number had no photo, so I was VERY leary of ordering. The service rep said that Kenmore products did not always show up correctly and he gave me the part number needed and there was a photo. The part was not exactly the same, but looked very similar and it was more than 50% less than the original recommended part and part with no photo. I thought that the problem finding Kenmore parts was odd since Kenmore is like number one, right? Part took 3 days to arrive, which I thought was great. Turned off power and water. Removed water hoses. Removed three screws from the back of the top (front loader). Removed the top. Removed a screw holding on the water inlet valve from the outside of the unit through the back cover which required a star driver. Unattached the 4 electrical leads. Unattached the outlet water hose (held on with a squeeze type metal clamp -not sure of the exact name for these). The problem that I had was that the water outlet hose bib attachment was slightly larger than the old one, so the hose would go back on, but the clamp was too small so I cusses a lot before figuring out the problem. I had to go and purchase a new larger clamp. After that, I simply attached the electrical connections and put the outlet back on. One other small problem was that the place where the screw through the back cover was originally attached no longer lined up with the new valve. The plastic piece was shorter than the old one so the screw hole did not line up with the hole in the back panel. The screw isn't really necessary. Overall, replacing the part was easy and I was pleased with the process.

The repair went great. The video shown on the partselect site saved me a huge amount of time disassembling the cabinet to access the malfunctioning part. The most difficult part of the repair was replacing the cabinet on the unit after the part swap and getting it straight. Luckily 2 attempts was enough. I recommend trying this repair yourself and saving a bunch of $$.

Your web site is amazing Ive enjoyed watching your videos,this is a really great way to see what it takes to repair your washer very informative. Steve was a good teacher for me I just followed along as he explained each step and my washer came apart just like he said. I removed the two front console screws and pulled slightly forward and lifted console up and tilted it back where it was out of the way. next I was able to lift cabinet up from the back and remove it from the frame and lay cabinet on the floor on top of a rug I had to protect the finish on cabinet . Now I had access to the lid switch and simply removed the two screws in the cabinet and the old switch. I connected the two wire connections to the new switch (no)normally open connection, used same actuator the instructions say to do this because the one that comes with the new switch won't fit so use the old one. on my washer there's a cover that fits under this switch and It took me a little longer to get the screws to line up so they fit through the switch and into the cover but It worked fine. Now all I had to do was reinstall the cabinet just like Steve did on the video my only problem with this was seeing where the tabs in the frame were located so that the slots in the cabinet would fit over top of frame tabs I used a flash light in one hand and lowered the cabinet down I held the light on the frame tabs and the slots in cabinet fit right in then lowered cabinet to the rear frame tabs where i just had to push slightly on the sides of cabinet and it fit right in.Next i pushed the back panel in place and on the top of washer just like in video reinstalled both spring clip clamps and the console and reinstalled the two screws. I plugged in the washer put drain hose back in drain pushed washer back in place turned it on working great now ! Thank You so much for your help Dan.

Order replacement lid switch, installed it, good to go. The installation video and instructions with the replacement part were very helpful.

It is sometimes tricky to figure out which screws and panels to remove to get to the parts you want to fix. Older Whirlpools used to have a lift up top that would allow access. This one required the back to come off (or at least partially off).

First, pull out the washer for access. Turn off water to the machine, and unplug the electrical cord. Remove the drain hose using a large pliers to pinch the clamp and then pull the hose off. Remove water lines at the back of washer, again with a large pliers (if needed). Remove two screws at the bottom of back panel. Remove two screws at the top corners of back panel that hold some sort of plastic hinge piece to the control housing. Remove two screws on either end of the bottom front of the control housing on top of the machine. The back can now be lifted free (with some effort) from the sheet metal tabs that hold the bottom of the back in place. Reach in the bottom side with the pliers and disconnect the large drain line clamp so you have more room to swing the back out. There also might be a little plastic thingy to twist out of a slot in the back (maybe a vibration damper?) You will see the water inlet valve just inside the back on the side. The inlet hose connections are actually a part of the inlet valve. It is now possible to reach in from the side and disconnect the small water feed line from the inlet valve with a pliers, and disconnect the electrical plugs from the valve. Remove the two screws holding the valve to the back and remove the valve.

Reassembly is actually easier than removal. Don't forget to replace the water hose washers or they will probably leak. If the hoses look bad, just buy a new set. They can be had quite cheap.

Good luck and prepare to be proud of how well your "new" washer now works and how much money you saved!

p.s. PartSelect Rocks!

The hot water hose was frozen to the hot water bibb and it took me a while to cut it loose with my Dremel tool. Removed the cabinet and replaced the water inlet valve easily, then hooked up new hot and cold water hoses. Reinstalling the cabinet was a little tricky getting it lined up correctly. Checked for leaks then tested the washing machine and it ran great with the water filling the machine much faster with the new Water Inlet Valve. I will definitely replace the washing machine hot and cold water hoses every 5 years from now on.