ITW4771EW0 Inglis Washer - Instructions

Took the Cover off and installed belt.

Unplugged, removed cold and hot lines, moved out to garage, unscrewed 3 screws on the back, lifted up the top, removed and replaced 1 suspension rod at a time with washer leaning against wall sideways, easy peasy didn’t take no time at all, moved it back in 3 screws back in place hot and cold screwed back in and walla! It worked and has been working flawlesssly..

very easy to repair , instructions very clear , parts person very good to talk to, parts got here fast

Spin indicator light was illuminated but machine was repeating rinse cycle rather than spinning water out of clothes. Replaced the pulley and drive coupler, thinking there was a mechanical problem. Video instructions were great but old pulley and drive coupler looked perfect so replacing them did nothing. Next I replaced the washer actuator (shifter), thinking that was the reason for no high speed spin. Easy job, as shown in the video, but it also did nothing. The problem turned out to be a failure in the control panel, probably resulting from years of vibration. Decided to stop chasing my tail and bought a new washer.

Replaced hinge switch. Still no spin cycle. Noticed hinge bearing cracked & if hinge forced into switch, spin activated. Ordered new hinge bearings.Spin cycle still didn't engage. On further examination, observed that hinge was bent. Straightened hinge & worked like a charm. Didn't really need new switch or bearings. NOTE : Avoid having washer door bang shut.Took longer than expected, but each procedure was simple.

Remove power and hoses. Remove five 1/4” hex head screws on back plate. Top control panel can be removed by inserting putty knife into front right and left corners of control panel. Push with enough force while lifting corners. Clips are metal so you won’t break them. Lay the control panel toward washer lid.
Two screws hold the water inlet in place but remove cables from inlet valves and the cable in the middle which has a temperature sensing thermistor. Once the 2 screws are removed you can manipulate the assembly out of its slot. After new assembly installed with cables reconnected and screws in place align the plastic control panel tabs back in that are at the rear of the top before snapping the control panel back into position.

Unscrewed the back plate,, unscrewed the top section from the back ,tipped the machine back after unlocking the front two suspension rods, put the new ones in with the new locks , tipped the machine forward, took the two back, suspension rods out, put them back in with a new locks put everything back together made sure all the legs were level and recalibrated the machine, which is take dial turn counterclockwise a turn stop on this machine at the regular pointer. Go back one go forward three back one you’ll see all the lights blinking turn to the light that has rinse and hit the start button. It will recalibrate and everything is working fine thank you all they were better rods than what I had ordered. One time before online. These appeared to be the original ones. Which are made better so make sure you use them. Thanks you saved me 600 bucks.!

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

Having been out of the business for quite a few years I thought that I was dealing with a direct drive machine. Thinking that it was the motor coupler. I removed the control panel and attempted to pull the cabinet froward. Not so, it had a solid cabinet, so I tilted the machine against the wall and looked under the washer finding the driven Transmission pulley loose on the shaft. The splines on the pulley were pretty well worn but I tightened the nut and it worked okay. But I ordered a pulley and replaced after it's arrival. The motor capacitor also broke it's mount off so I had to rehang it with zip ties and repaired the wires to the Capacitor, (Which BTW had about 22 gauge wire). I found it hard to believe that they would use such small wire.

At first I had to position the washer so I could get access.. after having it positioned, I figured it out. Getting the clamp fastened, I was done.

First I removed the two screws on the back of the control console( at the bottom, phillips head). Flip that up and out of the way. Then you could remove the 2 big clips that hold the back of the washer to the cabinet. Disconnect the lid switch and flip the cabinet forward and out of the way. Remember when putting the cabinet back on, line up the slots on the bottom of the cabinet with the toungues on the base. Next pull off the fabric softner dispenser, then reach down in there and pull out the bottom seal of that to expose the bolt that hold the agitator on. Remove that bolt and pull off the agitator. Remove that little clip and the plastic piece above the spanner nut. I didn't have a spanner wrench so I hade to use a small extension from my socket set and a hammer to loosen it. Once that is removed then you could remove the ring around the top of the tub, and pull the tub off. Now you could see the block and probably all the metal shavings it's been creating. If the two ears that stick up and fit in to the block are worn, you should replace that too. I think you hve to replace that from the bottom. Now just put it all back together. Print out the exploded diagram from the web sit so you have it right there. Good luck!

Easy, If your drive block has an open top, it's worn. Look at a picture of a new drive block and compare. If it doesn't match, then you need a new drive block. Note: Also check the drive clutch and clutch liners or pads...they may be worn. In my case it was the drive block this time. So to start, take off the fabric softenner dispenser in the center of the washer. Then pull out the seal. then remove the bolt. and pull off the agitator assembly. after that tap off the lock nut with a punch and hammer or if you have the special spanner wrench tool, use that. Once removed, pull out the inner tub and then pull the drive block off the shaft. Put the new drive block on and reverse the procedure from there. Tap the lock nut tight with the punch and hammer while re-installing. I'm so glad I did this repair. $15 is so much better than just giving in and buying a new washer!!!

1) Using a Phillips head screwdriver, the two screws retaining the hinge pin to the lid were removed. 2) Remove hinge pin and tilt lid slightly to gain access to bushing hole. 3)Install new bushing in hole. 4)Reposition lid. Insert hinge pin through lid and into bushing. 5)Reinstall hinge pin retaining screws and tighten.