ITW4671EW0 Inglis Washer - Instructions

The installation was very easy and took me 45 minutes to complete by myself. I put the washer on two cinder blocks and then removed the lid. I started with the suspension rods that were closest to me and they were really easy to exchange. When I got to the rods in the back they were a little more difficult because there was more tension with the new rods installed. I used the old rods to hook and pull the new rods into place and it was overall very easy.

slipped the new drain hose on and with locking plyers slipped the wire clap in place after three trys

Nothing to it. Just remember to put the insert in the knob, NOT on the selector stem. Line up the flat part of the insert with the flat part of the stem and push the knob in place.

Don NOT ram it on the selector stem. When it's seated, don't push any more. That's all there is to it. It works. If the pointer on the knob indicates the selector is lined up correctly, but it isn't, the problem is the selector, not the knob.

I had taken the time to watch videos of this repair so when the switch arrived I knew what I had to do. Removing the screws to get the back cover off was simple as was installing the switch. No tricks here just watch the videos and your all set to do the job

Watched video from partselect and it was on the money. Removed a few screws and tilted the lid. (after unplugging). Pulled it out from wall and tilted machine to have access to bottom. Had grandson reach from underneath and pull the rods out and inserted the new ones. Work great now. My wife is happy and I saved about $600 because I didn't have to buy a new one.

*be sure to turn water off, unplug machine, and unscrew the water hoses from the rear of the washer.
1. Removed screws from the back of the washer, just the top part where the controls are.
2. Removed the panel.
3. Use a putty knife or screw driver to pop off the top panel.
4. Remove the screws from the inlet valve.
5. Unplug the wires connecting the inlet valve to the washer.
6. Lift out the old inlet valve.
7. Replace with the new inlet valve.
8. Plug the new wires into the washer.
9. Replace the screws in the inlet valve.
10. Replace the top.
11. Replace the rear panel and screws.
12. Reconnect the water hoses, careful not to mix the hot and cold.
13. Plug the machine back in and you're finished!

I did the repair just as the video showed, and had no problems at all.
the hardest thing I had to do was to move the washer out to where I could get to the back of the machine.
Due to the help of the sales rep and the video the repair was very easy

Thanks
Louis

Tipped washer on its back & tookold Washer pulley assembly off & put new one on.

Replaced the mixer valve . It was a few screws, and an instruction video from YouTube.

I watched the PartsSelect video. I was hoping for the tub with the slots in the tub mounts, but mine didn't have them, so I had to lay it down on its back. The only thing I did that was not in the video was I placed a 2" thick closed cell foam knee pad I had on hand between the tub and the back of the housing. When I laid it down, the tub was elevated by 2". This made reaching the two rear rods a little easy. It seems that there would be a more robust way to achieve the dampening affect, but I guess this is cost effective.

It's strange that I searched for my issue several times and only saw recommendations to level the washer. It was level. Then one day I ran across the suspension rod resolution. It didn't do it on every load, but after a year of my wife nagging me and threatening to get a new washer, I finally fixed it. The biggest issue is just logistics in a condo hallway and a little leaking water. I also replaced my hoses. Should be in good shape until the next thing.....

easy install 30-45min and a reset and it was done.

I unscrewed the top panel of the washer. I lifted up the top and used the pint scrapper to loosen up the lid switch and slid it out. I pulled the switch wiring harness out of the rear top of the washer. I slid the new lid switch and wiring harness back through the opening and secured the switch in place. Screwed it back in place. Took less than 15 minutes. I followed the instructions on the video, easy peasy lemon squeezy.

Following what the video shows how that they send with your part email, confirmation or receipt!! Easy Peasy!!

W10721967 Splutch Cam Kit

Assuming the pulley nut was properly tightened at the factory. I think this problem occurs because of ever-so-slight rounding of the splutch cam teeth from the actuator engaging and disengaging over whatever time frame there is before a clattering noise develops.

When I took off the 13mm nut using the adjustable strap tool, it felt tight to me...Was it put on as tight as it should have been at the factory? Who knows. I don't have the torque specification of this nut on that plastic pulley.

Watch the videos to remove and replace the belt cover and belt, actuator and splutch cam kit.

Pay particular attention to tightening up the nut. I put the pulley on and hand-tightened the nut. I used the adjustable strap tool and before I tightened everything, I pushed up on the pulley to press against the spring pressure in order to mesh the teeth together. After the nut was tight, I repositioned the strap tool and gave it another go, further tightening it. You see earlier that day, I only tightened it up once because I thought it was good and tight. I put everything back and within a half-hour it was clattering again and I could loosen the nut I thought was tight by hand! I fooled myself. That's why I did it twice, and don't be afraid to give it a good second tightening effort. Two weeks now and the wife is currently very happy.

There are a lot of complaints, with these new energy efficient washers, no matter the brand, on the amount of water that is being used, and not properly washing your cloths, while in the wash cycle.
I got this new MayTag washer, and wanted to see it work, for myself, so I can try to correct the problem. But in order to see it work, and fill, the lid has to be open, to observe it working.
To do so, there is a part connected to the lid, called a "STRIKE", that when the lid is down, it activates the electronics, making the washer run.
So, I purchased this strike, to insert it in the washer, so I can observe the washer running, while the lid is open. Very easy, no tools required, just stick it in the slot, where the strike, on the lid goes, when the lid is closed.