IV4500X0 Inglis Washer - Instructions

Purchased and installed PS1485646 COUPLING, MOTOR (Direct Drive Coupling). We googled "Washing Machine making a grinding noise. Several people suggested coupling probably broken. We located some instructions online regarding dis-assembly, sure enough,the coupling was broken. We ordered the part from Partselect.com. It arrived in three days, replaced the broken coupler. Washing machine back in business for around $20. Hooray! Thanks, Partselect!

Well, after resolving Part Select (PS) shipping issues (PS sent me two refrigerator glass shelves instead of a Tub Spring); And as it turns out they sent me the wrong part for the suspension pads, which I have returned for credit. It takes 3-4 weeks to obtain your credit BTW.

Well after removing the cabinet, agitator, wash basket, plastic tub, all 5 springs, & pump suction line, I was able to access the Tub wear pads and suspension pads. As it turns out the suspension pads looked good.
Thank God, as PS had sent wrong parts. I replaced the wear pads, the 5 springs, and reversed the disassembly process. Took about 6 hours.
But washer works fine now, still vibrates, but does not walk across floor any more.

The tough part was replacing the front cabinet.
I did consult the video for help on replacing the clutch spring.
Thank you for that bit.

I admit to taking too much apart, most of the cabinet back can be left alone.
Some of the plastic wire keepers/routers suffered, as well as the console hinges.

The newly reassembled washer works without a hitch, and truely it took me about 4 hours over several days to dissamble and reassemble.
It is louder in the audible range than before, but very serviceale for another 20 years, saints willing.

Disconnected power, all hoses. Tilted washer backward to see underneath. (Placed sturdy 6" high object under back of washer to keep it from going flat on ground and possibly damaging hose connects). Looked for area where motor and transmission connect. Saw broken part (coupling). After trial and error, figured out how to remove pump and then motor, by removing strap type holding clips, and then broken part was accessible. Ordered part online and was easy to install and reassemble washer now that I knew how it came apart. If I had known the part name or number beforehand, I could have watched the replacement instruction video on this site, but I figured it out anyway, and I did it without removing the whole control switch panel and side panels/body of washer, like they do in the video. But..I guess they had to do that to give you a good view of all the parts and things they were removing underside. I recommend watching video for this part install,so you see what needs to be removed and how underneath, but then just tilting washer back to access underside, without all that control panel and sides removal.

unplug washer. -remove two phillips head screws and two nut head screws holding control panel. -lift up control panel. -remove nut head screw on ground wire of switch. -release and remove switch. - put in new switch. - connect ground wire. -replace control panel and screws. -plug in washer. (depending on location of your washer move it to gain access to screws on back of control panel.- once done move washer back.)

Unplug the washer. Used flat blade screwdriver under each end of the control housing on top of the machine. This popped the spring clips and allowed the control housing to be lifted up and rotated out of the way. Once out of the way, lift clip on wiring harness to lid switch, then pull the harness off. Use nutdriver to remove screw holding ground wire in place. Open lid of the machine. Pinch tab on back of the lid switch and rotate the switch up and out of the machine. Insert the new switch in the same manner, making sure that the machine lid remains open until the switch snaps into place. Attach ground wire using screw removed earlier and nutdriver. Clip wiring harness back in place. Close the lid and then rotate the control housing downward, and press on both ends to re-engage the spring clips which hold it down.

researched the problem from the web-site.found the three most common things that would cause the problem.inspected the washer to see if there was evidence that one of the described parts had falled,and found that the tub wear pads were missing do to wear.simply replaced and it solved the problem. Thanks for the information.

Went on line and ordered the piece I need. I got my socket set out, held the center piece in place then with the socket unscrewed the bolt. Popped the plastic washer off put the agitator clips in, put the plastic washer on and bolted it back together and was done. Easy as 1, 2, and 3.

Pulled hoses off, unclipped the remaining retainer clip, slid old pump off. Slid new pump on replaced the old retainer clip and put the new one on, replaced the 2 hoses, done. It took mabey 10 min.
The part got there in less that 24 hours from the time I placed the order, with standard shipping! I was impressed.

Direct drive, no belt. Motor sounds like it's spinning but the agitator is not. Bought the coupling (that goes between the motor and the transmission) and replaced it in less than 15 minutes. Two screws and two clips to open the cover. Two clips to move the water pump out of the way. Two screws and two clips to take out the motor. Replace the coupling and reverse the steps.

The video that was shown about how to perform the repair was spot on. I wasn't sure exactly what part I needed. I took the advise from you stating that these symptoms I described usually meant that the part I ordered was the correct repair In 65% of the cases. I was delighted to see that when I followed the instruction video, and the motor was removed, there was my coupling, In several pieces. At that point I knew that I ordered the correct parts.
Thank You,
Mario for Eastchester, NY.

I pulled the hose off and notice their was a part # and I went online and type the part # and showed the part and cost. I order it and receive it within 3days. when the part arrive I replace the hose in minutes. If I can do so can you its that easy.

Disassembled top control console and surrounding sheet metal cabinet per the video from this site. i then used a screw driver to carefully pry up each wear pad location individually and inserted the wood wedge. to about 1 1/2 inch height. rwmoved the old wear pads and popped in the new pads one by one. Closed up the unit and tested the machine . It ran like new. No more noise or viberation

The washer agitated ok, so I figured it wasn't the motor or agitator. Watching the repair videos, I assumed the clutch might be the culprit. The videos are very good, so I should have taken the machine apart and actually looked at the clutch - it wasn't too bad. Trying to put the new clutch on anyway, I noticed it didn't turn on level. I thought it wasn't seated correct, but it was then I realized the shaft was tilting. This would explain the THUMP, and the grinding must be a gear inside the transmission. As much as I hate to get a new machine, given the tremendous downturn in quality, I think that because this machine is old, it is not worth a $200 transmission. Anyone need a brand new (but test fitted so not returnable) clutch?

Followed the video posted on the website. Everything went great - first repair attempt took about 45 minutes. Time consumed mostly due to the straps that hold the motor in place being very difficult to put back on and that the cabinet was a little difficult to replace due to the amount of rust around the bottom of it. Tried out the washer when done, and noticed a burning rubber smell. Took everything apart again, checked it, and everything seemed to be ok (made sure all four rubber feet were in place on the motor) so put it all back together again. Noticed the smell again so took it apart a third time, and when the motor felt pretty warm, decided to do an internet search for "burning rubber smell after replacing drive motor coupling." The answer popped right up - the replacement parts were not solid plastic like the original ones- they had metal on the inside of them, and needed to be tapped, a bit forcefully, with a hammer and socket until flush on the both the motor and transmission axles. Once the parts were flush, the straps that hold the motor in place snapped right on. Still a challenge with the rusted cabinet, but once all together again, worked perfect! Thanks to this site , I have fixed washers, dryers, and refrigerators and used them now nearly 20 years! I showed my daughter and granddaughter how to repair them and they don't hesitate to pitch in and help or handle the repairs on their own - again with much appreciation to this sitefor the accurate "how to" videos, the right parts, fast shipping, and great prices.