VBXR1070W0WW Hotpoint Washer - Instructions

It was almost a complete tear down. Most difficult part was discivering how to remove the front panel. Slip a putty knife between the top and front covers. push and depress the spring tab on each side. The left hand nut on the hub was difficult. I had to get a neighbor to hold a large pair of pliers while I put a pipe wrench on the nut and hit it with a 2 lb. hammer in order to break it loose. Puting it back together do not forget to reconnect the level sensing hose to the level selector, I did. Machine will not perform without it. You can do it! I did.

We pulled up diagrams online and read a lot about the repairs. Four screws on top took off the electrical panel. Two clips hidden under the front of the top panel released the front panel. We followed the clear tube up to the water level pressure switch. We disconnected the previous switch, and connected the new one, one wire at a time. We tested and found that the water now stopped filling. Put the washer back together - done! Cost - $30 and 1/2 a hour total vs. calling a repair person.

Should be noted that the basket must be rotated on installation to find the best balance point!

removed washer front panel, top panel to access the water fill spout and hose. Disconnected and replaced.
personnel at part select were very knowledgable about detailed part and the overnight service was right on time.
I would recommend part select for your next appliance parts needs.

1) Unplug empty washing machine
2) Remove switch panel with star screw driver
3) Gently remove ground, two prong connector, and the water tubing from the water level pressure switch
4) From the front of the washing machine switch panel, pull water level switch knob straight off
5) Apply pressure to tin metal middle that holds the pressue switch in place so that the pressure switch can be rotated out of switch panel
6) Twist pressure switch off of the switch panel clockwise (from the front of the washing machine)
7) Set old pressure switch to the side
8) Place new pressure switch in tin groves and snap into place (the middle tap that you applied pressure to lock the pressure switch back into place)
9) Connect ground, two prong connector, and the water tubing to the pressure switch
10) Close washing machine panel and screw in all of the star screws
11) Push pressure switch knob back onto the pressure switch after aligning the hole to the rod

turned off the water and removed the hoses. Then removed the screws that held the back plate (that contains the knobs). removed the two screws holding the water valves and the hose to the washer. replaced the valve and then reassembled the rest.

Removed knobs, removed cold and hot inlet hoses,removed top cover, removed output hose, wire plugs, and three screws and replaced the valve.

the repair was really easy. All I did take down the control panel, disconnect the wires, pop out the switch, and blow through the air hose. I didn't realize what a simple machine it was.

It was real easy......
1. removed the 4 phillips head screws from the top of the control panel. The control panel is hinged and pulls forward towards you
2. Holding the Control Panel Chassis at an angle look between the knob and the backing ring for a clear c clip. (Note: you are looking for the open end not the closed end of the clip) Take a small flat blade screwdriver, place it between the timer knob and backing and press down until the clip slides off the spindle.
3. Remove the knob.
4. Before removing the wiring on the timer assy unplug the power cord from the wall socket.
5. Locate the green grounding wire on the timer assy and remove it with pliers.
6. Remove the main control connector by squeezing the tabs.
7. There was only 1 hexhead screw holding my assy to the chassis, remove and carefully pull up the left side of the assy just enough for the timer spindle to exit the chassis.

At this point its just the reverse order to connect the new assy.

Took front of washer off,found that all of the straps were broke ,removed two small bolts from each strap pulled plastic support from from broken strap and put it in new strap,put plastic supported end of strap in first put bolt in and mounted other end to drum,easy job just about any one with common since could do it.Got to go laundry to wash :-)

The hardest part of this repair was actually getting the panel off to get at the timer itself. You need a special type of screwdriver with a torc head, (not sure about spelling) ( looks like a phillips head but has an extra "prong") . After that it was as easy as unplugging the old one and plugging in the new one. piece of cake.

unplug machine and turn off water at the valve. the pressure switch is located behind the water level control knob. remove the knobs from the panel, then remove the panel on the top back of the machine and remove the wires from the pressure switch. unplug switch. attach wires to new switch and plug into place. replace panel and replace all the knobs.turn on the water valve and plug into outlet.

Originally my water level sensor was broken. When I was repairing that, I noticed that the dampening straps were broken. Replacing them was easy. The hardest part was remembering how to open the top. I just searched the internet until I found the answer. I can't remember it all right now, but the key was to slide a putty knife in between the top and the front to pop open the body.

I notice a strange noise when ever the tub would shut down from a spin cycle. When I would load clothes it seemed that the basket had to much lateral movement. I looked between the top of the frame & basket & found 2 of the dampening straps had broken. Ordered 4 of them to replace all the straps.

Replacement was easy. I popped the front cover of the machine off. Remove 2 screws which held the top down which gave easy access to the straps. The straps are held in place by 2 screws so it was a simple process of removing the screws, removing the straps from their anchors & reinstalling the screws with the new straps. Job done. Reinstall the top & front of the machine & put the wife back to work.

Use paint scraper to release spring tabs holding front cover on.

Removed 2 screws holding lid down, and lifted up but did not remove top cover and control panel.

R/R 2 hex screws holding strap in place. If you are lucky and the broken strap is up front this is a super fast repair. Those of you with a rear strap will want to disconnect the wiring harness to the lid switch and likely remove the top panel (+ <5 mins).

Super easy and super cheap!