VBXR1090D8WW Hotpoint Washer - Instructions

Use flat head screw driver to push in clips that hold on front panel.
use plyers to remove hose clamps on motor and remove hoses.
use nut driver and remove two screws holding bracket in place. disconnect two wire plugs.
Install motor and work above in reverse.
very simple 15min job at most.

This was a easy job for the do it your selfer. I had no problem the part ,it was like the same one I took off. Now I know where to come for parts . It was perfect . Thanks again

Reading all the other stories helped me get started. One tip I want to share is when removing the old coupler, I held on to a pulley puller by hand. I hooked the jaws underneath; while I pulled up on it, I would tap with a hammer on either side of the old coupler. This gave me the leverage needed to make it pop right off.

The first thought regarding the light rumble during the spin cycle is that the bearing was going bad. Many of the other inputs on replacing the bearing included the problem with removal of the Hub Nut. Only one article noted a set of assembly instruction for the washer is clipped onto the upper rear panel behind the control knobs, but I did not see this comment until later. Not being sure where to start with diassembling the washer, I began by taking off the control panel and to my pleasant surprise I found a neatly folded set of detailed instructions. Following the instructions, I proceeded to quickly disassemble the washer until I got to the HUB NUT. The Hub Nut is an aluminum, 1 -11/16 inch, left hand threaded problem. My tool selection is somewhat limited, so after unsuccessfully attaching it with grippers and vice grips, supported with the liberal aid of a rubber mallet and plenty of WD40, I went looking for something with which I could a better grip on the hub nut. The grippers and vice grips would slide a bit when hit with the mallet. Also since the space is very restricted, a large wrench could not be used. I located a 9-inch pipe wrench, and with the rubber mallet the Hub Nut finally loosened after just a few hits. I replaced the old bearing which appeared to be in fair condition. While replacing the bearing has not solved my noise problem, I thought that my experience with the pipe wrench benefit someone else in their efforts to get the hub nut off without using a chisel.

This site and buying experience WOWED ME!!! After realizing what happened, I searched how to open up a washer, since I had never done it before. My search brought me to your site, which had an excellent 'how to' video for my exact problem of replacing the pump! I ordered the part, which was delivered to my door in LESS than 24 hours! Unfortunately, there was undrained water in the washing machine so while undoing the clamps on the old pump, the water drained on my kitchen floor, so beware of that issue. Because of the positioning of the pump, the clamps were a little tricky to redo, but completed without too much difficulty. I also had to 'unplug' (with a coat hanger snake)the drain tube connecting the pump to the back of the washing machine so it could flow to the outside drain pipe. This was the best internet buying experience I have ever had! Thank you so much! I fixed a 15 year old washing machine for about $40.00!!! (And I am a 57 year old grandmother ;-) Woohoo!!!

my son repaired it. I was told that I had to by the whole thing as you could not get parts. Thank you for the parts.

I watched the YouTube video. Great help. The part was at my house less than 24 hours after I ordered. Great delivery! The repair was a no brainer even for a novice like me.

1) Remove the load size dial by simply pulling it off gently. 2) To gain access to the switch, you must remove the "splash panel" where the dials are located. Do this by removing 3 hex screws from the back of the splash panel. **(If you need to move the washer, do so with the tub empty. This will make it easier to move and also lessen the chance of damaging the floor due to excess weight - water weighs 8 lbs per gallon - the average washer hold from 10-15 gallons on the largest load). 3) Once you have access to the rear of the panel, you will notice 3 hex-head screws holding the splash panel to part of the galvanized metal washer frame. Remove these screws and make sure you place them where you won't lose them. Slide the back splash section to the right a little and then lift the back splash away from the washer. 4) Remove the plastic tubing located on the brown/orange section of the switch. 5) Now, gently press the female connector from the switch by gently pushing it away from the area where the tubing was and pull at the same time. 6) To remove the switch from the back splash, turn the switch in a clock-wise direction (do this carefully so the delicate section of the back splash doesn't break.) 7) Inspect the tubing to see if it has expanded while being on the pressure switch - If so, use a very sharp knife (carefully) to cut off that old piece. 8) Take the new switch and install it by getting it in the correct position (you can tell because the metal frame of the switch has two ears that help you to align the switch correctly) Twist the switch in a anti-clockwise direction until it snaps in place. 9) This step can be skipped if the "snap in place" works and the switch is firmly seated. IF, at some time or other, the nubs that are used to hold the switch in place have been damaged, you will have to replace the back splash (Prt # PS2340063) and this costs more than the switch. 10) If you are here without reading step 9 - Congratulations! 11) Make sure you replace the electrical connector onto the new switch (it only fits one way so if at first you are having trouble, try turning the connector 180 degrees. Once all the parts you disconnected from the pressure switch are back in place properly, place the back splash back onto where it came from. Replace the 3 hex-screws that hold the back splash to the machine and before replacing the machine to where you pulled it out from, run a test to get the pressure switch "pressurized." My suggestion is to set the switch at the setting where the water only fills for a medium load. (This next part is not necessary but is eco-friendly) Set the other dial so you only are using COLD water. Start the water loading into the tub (DO NOT have any material in the tub or the switch will not be set properly) and watch the water level to make sure it shuts off at the correct level. If not, don't worry, Just shut the machine off and turn the dial to Spin to empty the water. Do this while the lid is closed so you can tell when all the water has been emptied; there will be an unmistakable change in the sound of the pump. Start the COLD cycle over again and watch the water level; it may shut off the flow if the pressure switch has been pressurized correctly. If not, repeat the procedure once more. Again, if it shuts off properly, you can now try a load of clothes (keep it at the medium setting). After the clothes have gone through the complete cycle, the pressure switch may have reset itself and the next load will seem to have less water. Simply set the water level to its highest level and you are now all set to wash all the towels you used to soak up the water from the overflow. ONE MORE THING - If the pressure switch doesn't fix the problem, you will need to replace the valve assembly.

Repair went great. The large nut had to be soaked to free it but the part was an exact fit.

After doing some research on the problem I decided that the rubber tub dampers were probably the problem. Replacing them was simple and straight forward after watching the video. A test spin after installation revealed that the problem still existed. This time I watched the bottom of the tub with a flashlight as the spin cycle began and I discovered that the concrete counter-weight was loose on its platform. General Electric had attached a 5 lb concrete block to the tub support with two self tapping sheet metal screws that had stripped out. I screwed the screws back in and added two nuts to the protruding screw bottom and locked them together. Problem solved. The main difficulty in this repair is reaching to the back of the washing while laying on the floor. And sharp edges on everything.

The repair was done as describe by others with the "hub nut" having to be cut off due to corrosion. Instructions for removal of the tub were found inside the control panel area on the left hand side. Ordering s new hub nut and cutting off the old one proved to be a necessity.

I removed the center piece in the washer by pulling up on it, removed the retaining bolt and the agitator coupling.

Installation reverse of removal...no problems. The spline on the inside of the agitator coupling was worn out.

I never would have though about it until I searched the problem on line. I had already decided that I would have to buy a new washer (again)...I had a pressure switch problem about 6 months ago.

PartSelect is great...I ordered the parts for both problems from them and I have kept my old washer alive.

I put my fingers under the agitator and pull up , this pulled it off the couplier, then I used a 11mm wrench to remove the bolt that holds the couplier in place and pulled the couplier off, the new couplier didnt arrive until after I went to work but my wife had it all back together when I got back home,I told her what to do and she said it only took about 10 mins. to get together, very easy.

We removed the agitator then the bolt holding couplier. The inside of the plastic couplier had stripped after 5 years. We cleaned around the metal part of the agitator then installed the new GE plastic couplier, put in the bolt & replaced the agitator. The machine works better than ever.

The GE website said this part had to be replaced by a certified technician. The estimated service call alone was $80 & the part was not available from the GE website.

I am a mother of 3 so a washing machine is vital. I called various appliance repair places and was quoted anywhere from $50 - $85 just to come and look at it. I did some online research and discovered that the part itself was less than $7. After paying for 2-day shipping, my total was under $20. I thought, what do I have to lose. I received the coupling kit and read the EASY instructions. I had already removed the old one so by the time I received the new one, it took me less than 10 minutes. WOW!! I now have a working washer!! .THINK AGAIN!!