VVSR1030H7WO Hotpoint Washer - Instructions

removed back off washer, disconnected pump from washer tub, remove old pump in about 5 min, then installed new pump in less than 5 min. washer is working just fine wife thank me it was about 2 wks since the washer was down.

Watched the video, read installation instructions.
Replaced four broken dampening straps, washer is quiet and all is good.

I googled "water not draining washer" and found a video made by Partselect.com on youtube on how to replace the water pump for a washer. So, I went to their website and punched in the model number of the washer and found the water pump I needed in stock. It said it takes an average of 1.8 days for delivery. I ordered it on a Sunday and by Tuesday I had the part delivered to my front door. That night after work, I went down to the washer which I already had sitting face down on the floor with the back peeled off and the pump out from the weekend so I could compare how it looked with the online pictures. The new part came already mounted on a new bracket so it was just a matter of installing the bracket and hooking up the intake and output hoses. In order to make my job easier in the tight space, I removed the drain hose from the bottom of the wash basin by squeezing the pressure clamp with a large pair of adjustable pliers. I then installed the other end of the drain hose to the pump itself. I then hooked out the end of the output hose to the other part of the pump that pumps out the water to the sink. I first removed the clamp on the back of the washer that held the output hose to the back of the washer. That gave me more leverage to move the pump around for the installation. Once both hoses were clamped onto the pump, I used a ratchet socket wrench to install the two bracket bolts directly onto the base of the inside of the washer in the same holes using the same bolts as the old pump. Once that was tightly installed, I Hooked the other ends of the two hoses to the bottom of the wash basin and to the back of the washer respectively. FInally, I connected the ends of the two wires into the clips on the pump in the same order as the original pump. One white one black. Finally I screwed in all the short sheet metal screws that held the back washing machine cover on. It was about 12 screws. I then installed the drain hose with the original bracket to the back of the washer. Satisfied that everything was installed tightly, I stood the washer up and then hooked the water hoses back up to the faucets and tightened them snugly with the large adjustable wrench to ensure it did not leak. I plugged the washer back in, hooked the drain hose to the sink and then filled the basin up partially. Moved the control to the drain mode, and the water came out wonderfully. Note, when the pump was broken, I was able to drain most of the water from the wash basin by lowering the drain hose the a bucket on the floor and letting gravity do the work of draining it. I had to fill the bucket several times and dump it into the sink, before I was able to drain all the water out and then lay the washer face down on the floor to remove the back of the washer. Thanks for the part and quick delivery. I saved a lot of money on repairs by doing it myself.

Removed front panal & operate to see leak origion. Found the side of the pump cracked and split. Part Select sent the exact replacement part! Unplug washer. Remove ront panal; using a putty knife and a bit of preasure at the two release clips. Using pliers or small vise grips, squeeze hose clamps and locate back out of the way and remove two hoses. Have a shallow pan below to catch remainig water. Unhook the electric connections, taking note of where. Using nut driver or small ratchet, remove the two mounting screws and pump. I used new screw type hose clamps in lieu of the originals.

followed instructions on you-tube. shut off water faucets. disconnect hoses from washer. remove three hex screws from back of control panel. lean panel forward and slide to the right, then remove it and lay it down.
remove the two screws that hold the valve to the machine. use pliers to slide the clamp back and remove the hose. repeats these steps in reverse to finish job.
the first valve that partselect shipped leaked from the hot water hookup and was deemed to be defective. partselect credited my account before the part was at their warehouse. great service all around.

After much research I decided to have to repaired all new models were not good. Reached out to local service repair because I beleved that it was the timer. $270 for service call REALLY and $125 for part.
Reached ot to PART SELECT LOVE YOU GUYS) SAID WHAT WAS THE PROBLEM the chocie was a new knob or replace timer. I am
83 yr old woman and believe I could have done it myself if it wasn't for the problem of moving the dryer out. shut off electric four screws
take out old replace new rewire the four screws WORKING NEPHEW
DID IT IN TEN MINUTES NO CHARGE BUT THANK YOU PART SELECT FOR REAFFIRMING MY DIAGNOSIS. AUDREY

I purchased the part, watched the video that was embedded in the email I received, folllowed the instructions and was able to wash my laundry. It could not have been any easier unless the the part caem already installed. Thank you.

followed video

replaces as per video. Very helpful

1) Remove the load size dial by simply pulling it off gently. 2) To gain access to the switch, you must remove the "splash panel" where the dials are located. Do this by removing 3 hex screws from the back of the splash panel. **(If you need to move the washer, do so with the tub empty. This will make it easier to move and also lessen the chance of damaging the floor due to excess weight - water weighs 8 lbs per gallon - the average washer hold from 10-15 gallons on the largest load). 3) Once you have access to the rear of the panel, you will notice 3 hex-head screws holding the splash panel to part of the galvanized metal washer frame. Remove these screws and make sure you place them where you won't lose them. Slide the back splash section to the right a little and then lift the back splash away from the washer. 4) Remove the plastic tubing located on the brown/orange section of the switch. 5) Now, gently press the female connector from the switch by gently pushing it away from the area where the tubing was and pull at the same time. 6) To remove the switch from the back splash, turn the switch in a clock-wise direction (do this carefully so the delicate section of the back splash doesn't break.) 7) Inspect the tubing to see if it has expanded while being on the pressure switch - If so, use a very sharp knife (carefully) to cut off that old piece. 8) Take the new switch and install it by getting it in the correct position (you can tell because the metal frame of the switch has two ears that help you to align the switch correctly) Twist the switch in a anti-clockwise direction until it snaps in place. 9) This step can be skipped if the "snap in place" works and the switch is firmly seated. IF, at some time or other, the nubs that are used to hold the switch in place have been damaged, you will have to replace the back splash (Prt # PS2340063) and this costs more than the switch. 10) If you are here without reading step 9 - Congratulations! 11) Make sure you replace the electrical connector onto the new switch (it only fits one way so if at first you are having trouble, try turning the connector 180 degrees. Once all the parts you disconnected from the pressure switch are back in place properly, place the back splash back onto where it came from. Replace the 3 hex-screws that hold the back splash to the machine and before replacing the machine to where you pulled it out from, run a test to get the pressure switch "pressurized." My suggestion is to set the switch at the setting where the water only fills for a medium load. (This next part is not necessary but is eco-friendly) Set the other dial so you only are using COLD water. Start the water loading into the tub (DO NOT have any material in the tub or the switch will not be set properly) and watch the water level to make sure it shuts off at the correct level. If not, don't worry, Just shut the machine off and turn the dial to Spin to empty the water. Do this while the lid is closed so you can tell when all the water has been emptied; there will be an unmistakable change in the sound of the pump. Start the COLD cycle over again and watch the water level; it may shut off the flow if the pressure switch has been pressurized correctly. If not, repeat the procedure once more. Again, if it shuts off properly, you can now try a load of clothes (keep it at the medium setting). After the clothes have gone through the complete cycle, the pressure switch may have reset itself and the next load will seem to have less water. Simply set the water level to its highest level and you are now all set to wash all the towels you used to soak up the water from the overflow. ONE MORE THING - If the pressure switch doesn't fix the problem, you will need to replace the valve assembly.

The first thought regarding the light rumble during the spin cycle is that the bearing was going bad. Many of the other inputs on replacing the bearing included the problem with removal of the Hub Nut. Only one article noted a set of assembly instruction for the washer is clipped onto the upper rear panel behind the control knobs, but I did not see this comment until later. Not being sure where to start with diassembling the washer, I began by taking off the control panel and to my pleasant surprise I found a neatly folded set of detailed instructions. Following the instructions, I proceeded to quickly disassemble the washer until I got to the HUB NUT. The Hub Nut is an aluminum, 1 -11/16 inch, left hand threaded problem. My tool selection is somewhat limited, so after unsuccessfully attaching it with grippers and vice grips, supported with the liberal aid of a rubber mallet and plenty of WD40, I went looking for something with which I could a better grip on the hub nut. The grippers and vice grips would slide a bit when hit with the mallet. Also since the space is very restricted, a large wrench could not be used. I located a 9-inch pipe wrench, and with the rubber mallet the Hub Nut finally loosened after just a few hits. I replaced the old bearing which appeared to be in fair condition. While replacing the bearing has not solved my noise problem, I thought that my experience with the pipe wrench benefit someone else in their efforts to get the hub nut off without using a chisel.

front back and top have to come off, but contrary to 'youtube' instructions, 'nothing' has to be disconnected, if the washer is pulled away from the wall and power unplugged things can be unscrewed and pushed back enough to pull the inner tub out and get to the seal without disconnecting water lines wires or anything else.. the main shaft nut is aluminum and the shaft is 'castellated' so alittle penetrating oil on it and a short 10" pipe wrench in conjunction with a 2lb sledge busted it loose easy enough so i didnt need to buy a spanner .. the seal was easy to get out with a couple of screwdrivers wedged in the sides .. the old split ring crumbled upon removal also so get one of those .. i lucked out on the washer that goes with it and mine was still usable but if it was rusted any more than it was i wouldve needed that also .. so good idea to get the 3 items if your doing the seal - seal, split ring, and washer - another thing, i cleaned everything up good, knocked everything off with a brass brush, polished the shaft seal area with some 600 grit and then lubed the seal with silicone grease thinking it might be hard to get in .. it wasnt .. and it leaked slightly until i did several loads .. in hindsight it would be better to 'lightly' coat the outer edge of the seal that mates to the tub with a good silicone gasket maker, the inner lips with the grease would be fine ... so thats about how it went, parts came quick and i had it all fixed up in a couple of hours .. cleaning things as i went probably took longer than the wrenching ..

my son repaired it. I was told that I had to by the whole thing as you could not get parts. Thank you for the parts.

This site and buying experience WOWED ME!!! After realizing what happened, I searched how to open up a washer, since I had never done it before. My search brought me to your site, which had an excellent 'how to' video for my exact problem of replacing the pump! I ordered the part, which was delivered to my door in LESS than 24 hours! Unfortunately, there was undrained water in the washing machine so while undoing the clamps on the old pump, the water drained on my kitchen floor, so beware of that issue. Because of the positioning of the pump, the clamps were a little tricky to redo, but completed without too much difficulty. I also had to 'unplug' (with a coat hanger snake)the drain tube connecting the pump to the back of the washing machine so it could flow to the outside drain pipe. This was the best internet buying experience I have ever had! Thank you so much! I fixed a 15 year old washing machine for about $40.00!!! (And I am a 57 year old grandmother ;-) Woohoo!!!

Easiest thing I ever did on the computer. U tube helped me diagnose the problem and how to remove the old pump and install the new. Parts Select menu was easy to navigate and had a picture of the pump I needed. The cost was affordable and I got the satisfaction of making the repair myself.