VLSR1090G8WW Hotpoint Washer - Instructions

old one out, new one in. new one is seated, but not a perfect match bracket to hold hose in washer does not fit on this replacement hose properly. But I feel comfortable with the result & use

removed back off washer, disconnected pump from washer tub, remove old pump in about 5 min, then installed new pump in less than 5 min. washer is working just fine wife thank me it was about 2 wks since the washer was down.

Very easy with your great instructions in my email. took the wires off,took the hoses off,then the two bolts,put the new one on and reasembled the hoeses wires and bolts. put the front back on and that was that. Your company is great thanks for all your help.If I ever need help again with any off my appliances i will call on you,agin thank you very much. Frank!

The first thought regarding the light rumble during the spin cycle is that the bearing was going bad. Many of the other inputs on replacing the bearing included the problem with removal of the Hub Nut. Only one article noted a set of assembly instruction for the washer is clipped onto the upper rear panel behind the control knobs, but I did not see this comment until later. Not being sure where to start with diassembling the washer, I began by taking off the control panel and to my pleasant surprise I found a neatly folded set of detailed instructions. Following the instructions, I proceeded to quickly disassemble the washer until I got to the HUB NUT. The Hub Nut is an aluminum, 1 -11/16 inch, left hand threaded problem. My tool selection is somewhat limited, so after unsuccessfully attaching it with grippers and vice grips, supported with the liberal aid of a rubber mallet and plenty of WD40, I went looking for something with which I could a better grip on the hub nut. The grippers and vice grips would slide a bit when hit with the mallet. Also since the space is very restricted, a large wrench could not be used. I located a 9-inch pipe wrench, and with the rubber mallet the Hub Nut finally loosened after just a few hits. I replaced the old bearing which appeared to be in fair condition. While replacing the bearing has not solved my noise problem, I thought that my experience with the pipe wrench benefit someone else in their efforts to get the hub nut off without using a chisel.

followed instructions on you-tube. shut off water faucets. disconnect hoses from washer. remove three hex screws from back of control panel. lean panel forward and slide to the right, then remove it and lay it down.
remove the two screws that hold the valve to the machine. use pliers to slide the clamp back and remove the hose. repeats these steps in reverse to finish job.
the first valve that partselect shipped leaked from the hot water hookup and was deemed to be defective. partselect credited my account before the part was at their warehouse. great service all around.

Removed the front of the washer, screwdriver used. Disconnected the electrical wires from the pump. Removed the two bolts from the water pump bracket, socket wrench used. Disconnected the pump to exterior drain hose, plumbers wrench used to loosen tension clips. Drained all the water out of the washer tub, not easy not very neat. Disconnected the washer tub to water pump drain hose. Removed debris that was in the hose. Then connect the hoses to the new pump, bolted the bracket back in place, put the front of the washer back on.

replaces as per video. Very helpful

my son repaired it. I was told that I had to by the whole thing as you could not get parts. Thank you for the parts.

This site and buying experience WOWED ME!!! After realizing what happened, I searched how to open up a washer, since I had never done it before. My search brought me to your site, which had an excellent 'how to' video for my exact problem of replacing the pump! I ordered the part, which was delivered to my door in LESS than 24 hours! Unfortunately, there was undrained water in the washing machine so while undoing the clamps on the old pump, the water drained on my kitchen floor, so beware of that issue. Because of the positioning of the pump, the clamps were a little tricky to redo, but completed without too much difficulty. I also had to 'unplug' (with a coat hanger snake)the drain tube connecting the pump to the back of the washing machine so it could flow to the outside drain pipe. This was the best internet buying experience I have ever had! Thank you so much! I fixed a 15 year old washing machine for about $40.00!!! (And I am a 57 year old grandmother ;-) Woohoo!!!

Watched the video from your web site and followed the instructions. Didn't need to remove the console on my model.

front back and top have to come off, but contrary to 'youtube' instructions, 'nothing' has to be disconnected, if the washer is pulled away from the wall and power unplugged things can be unscrewed and pushed back enough to pull the inner tub out and get to the seal without disconnecting water lines wires or anything else.. the main shaft nut is aluminum and the shaft is 'castellated' so alittle penetrating oil on it and a short 10" pipe wrench in conjunction with a 2lb sledge busted it loose easy enough so i didnt need to buy a spanner .. the seal was easy to get out with a couple of screwdrivers wedged in the sides .. the old split ring crumbled upon removal also so get one of those .. i lucked out on the washer that goes with it and mine was still usable but if it was rusted any more than it was i wouldve needed that also .. so good idea to get the 3 items if your doing the seal - seal, split ring, and washer - another thing, i cleaned everything up good, knocked everything off with a brass brush, polished the shaft seal area with some 600 grit and then lubed the seal with silicone grease thinking it might be hard to get in .. it wasnt .. and it leaked slightly until i did several loads .. in hindsight it would be better to 'lightly' coat the outer edge of the seal that mates to the tub with a good silicone gasket maker, the inner lips with the grease would be fine ... so thats about how it went, parts came quick and i had it all fixed up in a couple of hours .. cleaning things as i went probably took longer than the wrenching ..

after reading repair stories, decided I should take front panel off and see where leak was coming from. taking the panel off was real pain but well worth as inside was dry! so I looked again and discovered a pin hole in drain hose that only leaked when tub was full. while I had panel off I noticed tub dampening straps were broken so went ahead and ordered those parts too.

The pump arrived and because I'd read some of the other stories here I wasn't too upset that it looked different.

I used pliers to squeeze the hose clamps and remove them from the old pump. The hex screws holding the old pump in were sort of rusty due to water, and were the majority of the miminal problem I had getting the old pump out. I put the new one in easily, fussed with the hoses a bit to make sure the clamps were in the right spot, plugged in the two leads, and ran a load.

The new pump was so quiet that I wasn't sure it was even working. Of course it was, and for $50 I gave myself a washing machine that works again. Thanks, guys.

The video on this site was very good and simple compared to others so if you are replacing a belt please follow the directions given here. A few comments:
* when you compare the new belt to the old do not panic - the old belt is much larger which would explain the slipping.
* get the belt installation tool - it is worth it
* use three tie wraps instead of one. I never got a single one tight enough to hold the belt. using three it went straight on.
* as in the video, move the belt around to the right once the tie wraps are in place
* once you start to move the belt onto the drum pulley be sure the belt is hanging below the pulley and it is clear of the motor mounting brackets. There is not enough clearance if the belt rest on top of the pulley as you move it around. The motor mounting bracket seems to want to catch the belt and you run the risk of cutting the belt.

It took me less than 45 minutes with my learning curve so the next one will take less than 25.

Removed front with putty knife to unlock hinge.removed and checked pump removed hose clamps with wrench and nut driver replaced hose reverse procedure