VBXR1060V0AA Hotpoint Washer - Instructions

It was almost a complete tear down. Most difficult part was discivering how to remove the front panel. Slip a putty knife between the top and front covers. push and depress the spring tab on each side. The left hand nut on the hub was difficult. I had to get a neighbor to hold a large pair of pliers while I put a pipe wrench on the nut and hit it with a 2 lb. hammer in order to break it loose. Puting it back together do not forget to reconnect the level sensing hose to the level selector, I did. Machine will not perform without it. You can do it! I did.

We pulled up diagrams online and read a lot about the repairs. Four screws on top took off the electrical panel. Two clips hidden under the front of the top panel released the front panel. We followed the clear tube up to the water level pressure switch. We disconnected the previous switch, and connected the new one, one wire at a time. We tested and found that the water now stopped filling. Put the washer back together - done! Cost - $30 and 1/2 a hour total vs. calling a repair person.

Should be noted that the basket must be rotated on installation to find the best balance point!

1) Unplug empty washing machine
2) Remove switch panel with star screw driver
3) Gently remove ground, two prong connector, and the water tubing from the water level pressure switch
4) From the front of the washing machine switch panel, pull water level switch knob straight off
5) Apply pressure to tin metal middle that holds the pressue switch in place so that the pressure switch can be rotated out of switch panel
6) Twist pressure switch off of the switch panel clockwise (from the front of the washing machine)
7) Set old pressure switch to the side
8) Place new pressure switch in tin groves and snap into place (the middle tap that you applied pressure to lock the pressure switch back into place)
9) Connect ground, two prong connector, and the water tubing to the pressure switch
10) Close washing machine panel and screw in all of the star screws
11) Push pressure switch knob back onto the pressure switch after aligning the hole to the rod

the repair was really easy. All I did take down the control panel, disconnect the wires, pop out the switch, and blow through the air hose. I didn't realize what a simple machine it was.

It was real easy......
1. removed the 4 phillips head screws from the top of the control panel. The control panel is hinged and pulls forward towards you
2. Holding the Control Panel Chassis at an angle look between the knob and the backing ring for a clear c clip. (Note: you are looking for the open end not the closed end of the clip) Take a small flat blade screwdriver, place it between the timer knob and backing and press down until the clip slides off the spindle.
3. Remove the knob.
4. Before removing the wiring on the timer assy unplug the power cord from the wall socket.
5. Locate the green grounding wire on the timer assy and remove it with pliers.
6. Remove the main control connector by squeezing the tabs.
7. There was only 1 hexhead screw holding my assy to the chassis, remove and carefully pull up the left side of the assy just enough for the timer spindle to exit the chassis.

At this point its just the reverse order to connect the new assy.

The hardest part of this repair was actually getting the panel off to get at the timer itself. You need a special type of screwdriver with a torc head, (not sure about spelling) ( looks like a phillips head but has an extra "prong") . After that it was as easy as unplugging the old one and plugging in the new one. piece of cake.

unplug machine and turn off water at the valve. the pressure switch is located behind the water level control knob. remove the knobs from the panel, then remove the panel on the top back of the machine and remove the wires from the pressure switch. unplug switch. attach wires to new switch and plug into place. replace panel and replace all the knobs.turn on the water valve and plug into outlet.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. put the new part in and that was it.

I removed the front panel, disconect the Level Pressure Switch and conect the new one, the only thing that took me most of the tima was calibrate the instrument.
whene you disconct the hose that goes in th side of the L P S. to replace it for the new one you have to be care full. FIrst install the new part, then before you conect the hose let the machine fill up with water up to the firt level ( small load), to do this,calculate the water amount, then blow the hose to leave the hose free off air to create, a vacume then install it on the original position.

1.Pulled the agitator out. Unscrewed the top nut, which was a little tricky to break loose since it had been in place for over 10 years. Pulled out the entire washing cylinder to unscrew and replace the hub. Not bad but you need to take out the inner tub and that requires doing a little extra unscrewing and prying.

remove top control panel & r&r water level/pressure switch.

First removed tub comming from Tub and removed srcew to replace. Has to twist part out of slot to remove installed in reversed order. Really easy to do.

Removed the knob from water level switch. Removed 4 screws holding the control panel cover on and leaned it out. Made sure the washer was unplugged and removed the three wires and removed the water level hose and the switch. Installed the new switch and hose plugged the wires back in and put things back together. Washer works fine now.

The first thought regarding the light rumble during the spin cycle is that the bearing was going bad. Many of the other inputs on replacing the bearing included the problem with removal of the Hub Nut. Only one article noted a set of assembly instruction for the washer is clipped onto the upper rear panel behind the control knobs, but I did not see this comment until later. Not being sure where to start with diassembling the washer, I began by taking off the control panel and to my pleasant surprise I found a neatly folded set of detailed instructions. Following the instructions, I proceeded to quickly disassemble the washer until I got to the HUB NUT. The Hub Nut is an aluminum, 1 -11/16 inch, left hand threaded problem. My tool selection is somewhat limited, so after unsuccessfully attaching it with grippers and vice grips, supported with the liberal aid of a rubber mallet and plenty of WD40, I went looking for something with which I could a better grip on the hub nut. The grippers and vice grips would slide a bit when hit with the mallet. Also since the space is very restricted, a large wrench could not be used. I located a 9-inch pipe wrench, and with the rubber mallet the Hub Nut finally loosened after just a few hits. I replaced the old bearing which appeared to be in fair condition. While replacing the bearing has not solved my noise problem, I thought that my experience with the pipe wrench benefit someone else in their efforts to get the hub nut off without using a chisel.