HWA2506W Hoover Washer - Instructions

I followed your video instructions. Very good video.

Followed the great instructions on your video

Turn water off at the inlet valve of hose you are replacing. Disconnect inlet hose the washer and let water drain out in a bucket. Then remove old hose. Replace new hose to inlet valve then washer . Use pliers to tighten both ends. Turn on water to check leaks at both ends of hose.

The lid switch is on the right side top of the washer under the lid. I took a putty knife and found the clips that hold the top of the washer and pushed them to release it. I then lifted it up to fully see the lid switch. I unplugged the washer from the wall socket and took out the 2 screws that holds the lid switch in. Then unplugged the lid switch from its electrical connection and put the new one in its place. Washer is working great so far.

Followed the excellent utube instructions you provide. Piece of cake when I followed the video. The rear springs became much more difficult because my model does not have rear access panel. They were the only stuggle. Thank you for doing the repair videos

I unscrewed the old lid switch and screwed on the new switch in seriously 2 minutes!

Reverse the process to install new pump
Unplug the machine
Place pad on floor to protect the machine from scratches
Lay front of machine on floor
Remove back cover (10 screws)
Disconnect 2 hoses
Remove 4 screws which secure pump to bottom frame
Remove belt
Remove pump

Reverse the process to install a new pump

Your web sites intuitive design makes it easy to navigate and the customer service person was knowledgeable, easy to understand and professional.

The part arrived via UPS in 3 days. It was double boxed (well packaged) and most importantly, it was the correct part.

This was is 1st time we used your server but it won’t be the last!

Kudos to the entire staff and please…keep up the good work.

Sincerely,

Lon Thomas

Opened hinges top of washer. Removed screws holding hinge bases. Removed the washer top lid and unscrewd broken hinge pin. Replaced hinge pin and inserted in pin base and screwd base op hinge back onto washer and job was done.

Lift the top of the washer so you can access the screws that hold the hinges. Replace the hinges,and close the washer top. This is the sescond time we have had to replace the hinges.

This lid and hinges are very poorly designed. Instead of opening to the side, it opens straight back. That means when the hinges wear out (and they do because they are plastic), you have to push the lid all the way back to stay open. When you push it all the way back, it hits the control knob and turns off the water.

If you are like me, I like to turn the water on and add the soap so it can dissolve before I add the clothes. It is really irritating when you open the lid and the only way for it to stay open is to push it all the way back and the water shuts off. And if you don't push it all the way back, it slams and scares the bejeebers out of you or slams on your fingers.

Unscrewed the front panel. Then took pump out & put new one in. . . . . Thank you part select. Com. . . Super fast shipping. . .

Turned water off,tilted unit forward,removed lower rear cover,removed belt,laid towels around ,removed inlet hose and exit hose off pump,removed 3 screws holding pump,removed pump and installed new one,reversed order of disassemble, has been running great ever since.

I followed the instructions that other posters suggested. The springs were the toughest part to remove and reinstall. Having my wife push the tub enabled me to use vice grips to get them back on. Read about the coins or washers to spread the springs too late... would have helped. Running a wash now and it's spinning great and no noise!

I followed Gary from Sioux City IA instructions. Very well explained.

I followed the feed back in the forum from a previous repair. I popped open the top of the Washing and propped it open @ approx. 70 degrees,moved the Tub out of the way and used a small Phillips Scwdrvr to remove the broken part, installing the new parts was a snap, I took the time to use a Q-Tip and petroleum jelly to coat the pin and hinge making it easier and less binding when opening the lid.

Washer was shaking/thumping during the spin cycle for even the lightest loads. Previously changed the suspension springs, and the problem was not resolved.

I was able to locate the service manual for this washing machine online and download the PDF for free. Getting this will provide dis-assembly instructions and photos.

Sorta like requiring that you disassemble an engine in order to change the oil filter. Engineering suggestion here for any Maytag folks cruising the site. Mount the snubber ring with it's own clamping ring so that you can change it (snubber) without removing the agitator & spinner basket from the tub. Think something like this... Remove suspension springs, remove hoses, flip entire assy. upside down, then replace snubber ring without any further dis-assembly.

I followed the service manual's recommended approach, here are the basic steps:

1) Open the small back cover and detach the wash drum's drain hose at the waste pump, and while you've got back of the unit visible, tip forward and unhook the drive belt from the motor, pump and agitator.

2) Use a spatula or putty knife on the front seam between the lid and the lower body to unlock the spring latches which keep the top on. Flip the top up and back to get into the basket area. Take off the front cover so you can see the wash drum.

3) Remove the top cap/splash guard around the wash drum by pressing the cap/splash guard down while unhooking the little ears.

4) Remove the fabric softener cap from the center of the agitator and remove the bolt that's down the center of the agitator. This will require a socket. Remove agitator and plastic skirt that goes around the bottom of the agitator.

5) Remove the plastic sealing nut. This nut has a number of small plastic points on it and I broke a number of them off with the channel-locks while removing this. You may need to order a spare.

6) Remove the washing drum.

7) Use the spanner to remove the basket hub. I made a spanner out of some scrap steel parts I had and mounted using the screws I took out in step 5. If you have a spanner, you're set here.

8) Unhook the suspension springs and you should be able to lift the entire unit right out of the base.

9) Remove the cap on the bottom pulley and pull the E-clip that holds locks the pulley in place. Remove the pulley and plastic gears which mesh with the transmission shaft.

9) The snubber ring (the problem here) is located under the brake plate/ring on the very bottom. The brake assembly is preloaded with a spring inside, the manual says to use a special spring compressor while assembling. I didn't have any trouble holding it down while I had my 5 year-old daughter start the screws for me. Remove the 6 small screws around the brake ring and remove the shards of the worn out snubber. Replace with new snubber and start re-assembly.

Possible Shortcut:

After doing this, I see it may be possible to shortcut the factory directions. I can't guarantee that it will be successful, but after doing it I don't see any reason it wouldn't work. Following above numbers:
1) Do numbers 1-3 above.

2) Jump to step 8, remove the suspension springs and just get the entire drum removed and inverted. Don't mess with the legs, don't mess with the attachments or anything. You will only need to work on the pulley.

3) Remove the drive pulley and brake retaining plate. Shouldn't need to do anything with the inside of the washing drum here. No need to mess with the seals and/or plastic nuts.

4) Replace snubber and reassemble.