HAV1200AWA Hoover Washer - Instructions

For safety I Unplugged the machine
Tipped machine back and removed the belt. Rotated the motor by hand and all is well there. Rotated the water pump by hand and a grinding sound appeared. I Let the machine down . Using a hard object , 1/16th of an inch thick, I slide it between the front edge of the lid and the front panel unlocking the clips ( one on the right side and one on the left side ) holding the lid down. I then tipped the lid up and removed the 2 screws holding the front panel on. Lifted the front panel off of the clips on the bottom end of panel. Using a nut driver I removed the 3 bolts holding the pump to the frame. Then with a pliers I removed the clips holding the 2 hoses. With a pan to catch the water I removed the hoses and drained them into the pan.
I then took my machine model number and went to the internet in search of a new water pump. After checking several sites with no success, I come upon the site for PartSelect.Com. With the excellent search method on the site I was able to quickly find the part I needed. I placed my order (10pm) on a Tuesday night and a short time later I received an email letting me know they had my order. On Wednesday I received an email letting me know they had shipped my order. On Friday the order had arrived.
I removed the new pump from the box and inspected it . Every thing looks great. I placed the pump into its mount on machine and bolted it down. Attached the 2 hoses, put the front panel back on and tipped the top down into place. Pushed machine into place, plugged it in and fired it up. I now have a quiet running machine again. Thank You to PartSelect.com for the quick response to my

Disassembly
- Took the back bottom plate off.
- Removed hoses.
- Removed pump with pulley (3 nut screws)
- Removed belt

Installed new parts
- Installed pump with pulley (3 screws)
- Installed belt by placing on 2 small pulleys, then turning onto the large pulley (used a screwdriver to help align over pulley for leverage).
- Replaced hoses
- Replaced back plate.

tip washer up on wooden blocks.remove drive belt.remove "E" clip from tub drive pulley and remove all the parts.Install new parts in kit as per instructions.machine works great!

Removed the waterlines. Set the ends in a small pan or bucket to catch the water.Do the same with the drain line.
Keep an old towell handy as water will drain out of the drain pump when you remove the drain hose. Removed the back panel. Use a flat bladed screw driver to pop the top off the two clips in front holding the top down. Lift the top and pull the two screws which holds the front in place. Remove the front and set aside. Underneath, use gloves and the screw driver to remove the six springs by placing the screwdriver through the top hook end about an inch and with both hands lift the spring off. Carefull not to let the blade slip off and bust your knuckles on something,hence the gloves. Lean the machine over and walk the belt off the pulley. Disconnect the small tube in the back left corner from the drum and lift the unit out from the top. Set the drum on it's top and loosen the six screws under the big pulley just enough to pull the snubber out. Replace new snubber, tighten screws. Set drum back in place and reattach springs. Lean unit over and replace belt. Reconnect the small tube, back left corner. Replace the front panel and top. Connect the drain line and replace the rear panel. Connect waterlines and check for leaks. I went ahead and replaced all springs. I recommend replacing the belt while your at it. I'm wishing I would have. It runs like new, gets more water out on the spin cycle and the dryer dosn't take as long to dry the clothes.

I was able to get the belt off easily but the belt was fine. I changed the snubber easily also. But that wasn't the problem. I went through all the parts that are easy enough to change without a mechanic but turned out it was something inside the innerbasket and we had to junk the washer and it was only 4 yrs old.

Removed screws form back of console cover, removed bad pressure switch, Installed new, repeated steps in reverse order.

Open the top of the washing machine by using a putty knife to release the latches at the right and left side. Prop up the top so it doesn't fall while working.
Remove the inlet hoses and put in bucket to catch water.
Remove the two screws that hold the inlet valve in place.
Remove the wires from the inlet valve. (One of the spade connectors one wire broke and I had to replace it.) I used needle nose pliers to pull the spade connectors off.
Remove the outlet hose.
Throw out old valve assembly.
Attach hose to new valve assembly. (My old valve assy outlet was slightly smaller in diameter than the new valve, but I was able to get the outlet hose to stretch enough to fit--couldn't use old spring clamp though, but new valve came with a hose clamp--worked fine.)
Attach wires same way as they cam off old valve.
Position and use the two screws to screw assy back into back of washing machine. (The screws had to tap the holes on the valve, so start out a little hard.)
Reattach the inlet hoses and check for leaks.
I also ran both the hot and cold in a cycle and the reraised the top to check for any leaks internal to the machine.
Pus the top back down to engage its fastening clips.
Job done.
My washing machine is 23 years old.

After replacing the tub to pump hose, I adjusted the feet on the washer. Apparently, the main pulley sits so low on these washers that it ground into the floor and stripped out the thrust bearing. I ordered the new thrust bearing clip and put it in the evening I received it. The instructions it came with were very helpful and it was simple to reassemble. Up until the last piece - the retaining clip. The majority of the repair time was spent replacing that clip. If there is a tool that makes the job easier, I didn't have it. I finally got it on with two flathead screwdrivers prying the shaft out while I wedged one corner of the clip in the groove.

Removed the screw from the side of the lid of the washer. Took off the old Lid Switch Actuator and screwed in the new one. Took a little elbow grease because the old screw was tight but no longer than 15 minutes tops.

I removed the part that was still attached to the washer and installed the new flume. It took less than five minutes and a repair that would have cost over $85 cost less than $10 and I am no plumber!

i took off the old belt and i took off the motor pulley with the pliers and srewdriver. i put the new pulley in with my hand and gave it a hit with the palm until it snap in and then i put the belt on by rotating the main pulley on tub till the belt was pulley on.

first remove drive belt then then remove dust cover on bottom of shaft take 5/16 nut driver to only 4 of the screws off that hold the brake cover on install 4 5/16 screws 1" long in those 4 spots.reomve rest of screws then slowly reomve back out 1" screws to relve spring pressure from brake pad.install all new parts from partsselect.com then install other part taken off in oreder and make your wife very happy

I didn’t have special tool for brake but punch and hammer worked. Seal was easy to replace. Several videos online to show you how. It wasn’t worth it to tear apart the transmission and buy more parts/seals (if they were even available). But I didn’t know how much oil was in it. I drilled a hole in the side to somewhat check level and added 80-90 gear oil. It was almost empty and added almost a quart. Used a self taping screw/bolt with gasket sealer to plug the hole. I got 34 yrs out of this washer. If it fails, oh well. Just hate to buy a new one that only last 10yrs if im lucky.

Removed damaged pulley installed new pullley and clutch. The directions made it easy. Aligned pulley as detailed and installed new front feet and tested washer. Took me about 30 minutes to repair. Washer has been working since. Thanks guys for a nice no nonsense package.

PROBLEM: The washer lid has two hinge pins that are attached to the lid with Phillips screws (one per pin). The plastic pin that inserts into the hinge broke off, allowing the lid to come free. SOLUTION: First, I removed the lid from the washing machine. Second, I used a Phillips-head screwdriver to remove the original hinge pins from the lid. Third, I replaced the hinge pins. Fourth, I used a flat-head screw driver to pry up the washer top to obtain easier access to the hinge screws. Fifth, I removed the original hinges with a Phillips-head screwdriver (one screw per hinge). Sixth, I attached the new hinges to the washer lid. Finally, I attached the hinges (and lid) to the washer top, then lowered the washer top.