GWT445RGS0 Gibson Washer - Instructions

Removed spring retainer straps from top of springs. Propped up tub with blocks and a wedge. Lifted out each spring and replaced. Re-attached spring retainer straps. Removed pins from shock absorbers (old/broken ones). These break due to moving washer w/out installing original foam blocks and support screws or due to age and fatigue. Pins have a retainer that must be depressed as you pull or push them out. may need to spin back and forth with pliers as you pull them. Bottom right pin won't come out w/out a hassle. Cut it in pieces with dykes and used spare pushed in from the FRONT (not the rear, as it was originally installed). Found leak was not fixed by getting the drum back up to proper height. Found bolt on tub had broken the bottom of the soap dispenser "tray". This is a 50.00 part. Made a patch from the bottom. Roughed up plastic and used silicone adhesive. After it had adhered filled from top with more silicone. Allowed 24 hrs to dry. Washer is as good as new.

PartSelect is fantastic. Door catch broke on 3 day holiday weekend and given age of washer figured nobody would have the parts. Found PartSelect on line, ordered, paid for expedited shipping, got the part by the end of the week. Took me just a few minutes to screw in the catch and I was doing laundry again the same day. Had a little bit of a problem identifying the part on the schematics but once I figured it out everything was a breeze. Recommend PartSelect highly.

It was a very easy fix. Called a repairman and they wanted 350.00 to come out. Ordered the door lock and switch assembly for 76.00 and it was fixed in 15 minutes. Thank you for shipping the part so fast. Much appreciated.

Replaced both the water inlet valve and the tank pressure switch to eliminate any possible cause. The repair was easy, and now the washer works fine.

Loosened top of washer from spring tabs and leaned it against wall, removed two phillip head screws from the front bottom panel, removed panel. Removed spring clamps from 2 hoses( make sure water is drained from tub before doing this!!) on pump, removed 2 wire connectors. Used nutdriver to remove 2 screws that held down pump. Replaced pump and everything else installs in reverse. Almost forgot, the plate that holds the pump to the bottom of the washing machine has to be removed from the old pump and attached to the new one.

Disconnected power, removed hoses, removed housing and pump. Re oriented drain pipes on pump to align with washer hoses (just twist collar and re set) attach foot bracket and secure to washer bottom. Attaching the hoses with the compression clamps was a bit of a problem until I used pliers to press the ends together and then an adjustable wrench to hold them tight. Slid on hoses and released clamps. Replaced electrical and secured pump cover. Done in about 15 minutes.

The wind blew the washing machine door shut so hard that the catch snapped in half. I found Part Select dot com on the internet, ordered the part and within a couple of days, it arrived. I didn't even do the repair...my Fiancé did it while I was away at a conference. Easy to fix, great ease of finding the part on Part Select...saved the labor of having a repairman come out to fix it. When in doubt, Do It Yourself!

remove one hose clamp.pulled hose from back of washer.replaced with new hose in same procedure.best of all i had my new hose in two days.great serviceand inventory.

The local appliance repair store quoted me $80+ for a "kit" to repair the door catch. I saw the part on your website for less than $8. Even with rushed shipping (I have four boys who generate lots of laundry), it was only about $20 total. You guys are AWESOME! I sell tools for women and do-it-yourselfers and am directing my customers to your site. Thank you!!!

For some time, our washer's door was vibrating and making noise during the spin cycles. Then after washing a large blanket, the drum stopped spinning all together. I was able to slide the top of the washer off after undoing the screws in the back and then following the directions, found that the error code was for the washer door. The drum would not spin because it thought that the door was open, confirming what we thought, the door lock and switch assembly were bad.
I was able to unscrew the assembly from the front, then reach down and after ordering the new part, disconnect the 3 cables, remove the old part then redo the cables on the new assembly and Voila...working washer, woo hoo!

First unplug the machine, then remove two srews on the back of the machine for the top cover. Remove top cover and then remove two srews that hold the door locking part. Put your hand in the machine and grab the part. unplug the three wire harnessess then plug them back and put back in place and put the two srews back and then the top cover and two srews as well.

ordered the new pump,its a lot more heavy duty than the orginal.had to change the mounting bracket somewhat. the new pump mounted bythe bottom of the pump housing and theold pump mounted by the side of the pump housing. so, wnere the curve was in the mount, I used the bench grinder to cut the curve out to make a flat surface for the new pump to rest in ,also drilled two 1/4 inch holes in the mount for the bolts to mount the pump.

"Instructions" with the kit suggest pulling the pins out with a pair of pliers. That's fine if you're a gorilla. It's easier to use a 13MM boxed-end wrench. Slip it over the tapered end to depress the locking tab; then tap a 3/8 dowel rod held against the tapered end to remove the pin. Also my washer has a drain tube that has to be disconnected to get access to the top pin. If I had to do this again it would take about an hour.

I removed the front access cover and the rear cover. It was also necessary to remove the water level sensor (attached to the tub drain hose) to access one of the shocks. Not having a 1/2" deep socket, I used a 2" piece of 1/2" copper pipe to depress the locking tab on the shock attachment pins--worked great. Pulled the pins out with pliers. Putting the pins back in after replacing the shocks was easiest to do using 'channel-lock' pliers to grab the bracket and the pin head and squeeze in the pin. The only problem was that my copper pipe piece fell into the drain hose when removing one of the pins! Had to take the drain hose loose to fish it out.

Pulled the locking pins out, replaced the shock absorbers and re-installed the locking pins. I used Channel Lock pliers to remove and replace the locking pins. i used a deep socket to hold down the tab on the locking pins so they could be pushed out. The new shock absorbers came with installation instructions.