GWT445RGS0 Gibson Washer - Instructions

I heard that the repair job was simple and the part was not expensive (whew!) The repair video on your website was MOST helpful and gave me confidence. At first I tried it exactly as the guy demonstrated and all went well removing the broken support. Installing the new one (on the right side) was impossible for me. I could not get good enough leverage to fully re-insert the lock pins and I was slicing up my arm on the sharp metal edges. I removed the 900+ screws (just kidding- but there were quite a few) from the back panel and could access the lock pins MUCH easier. All four for both shock absorbers snapped right in. Re-attaching the rubber vent hose involved a few cuss words but I got it back on correctly after taking a break. All is great with the little washing machine once again! Thank you for the installation video and amazingly fast shipping, wow.

1. replaced (2) shocks, remove bottom cover 2. (1) spring and rib belt, used a wooden block to hold up drum , rolled out ld belt and rolled in new----remove top and rear covers after replaced same ---thanks..

First,turned the power and water off. I disassembled the door lock and switch assembly by removing two screws from the rear of the top lid to gain access to the switch. Removed two screws from the switch assembly located in the front door latch area. With screws removed, I seperated the three terminal blocks and inspected the assembly for failure potential. Discovered a small crack in the switch housing which created error in relay function. Ordered the part and installed in reverse order of above. Realigned the door for proper closing, turned water and power on and did laundry all night to catch up!!!

I was hoping it was the drain hose but it wasn't. It's a front load washer so I pulled the kick plate in the front (2 screws) removed the three clamps and put the new hose on. Easy job, saved a hundred or so from the repair man. Part cost 35 bucks!

Pulled washer electrical plug from receptacle.
Unscrewed hot and cold water inlet hose connectors.
Removed screws retaining backplate.
Removed back plate.
Removed two screws connecting valve assembly to frame.
Pulled two spade electrical wire connectors from valve assembly.
Opened hose clip securing hose on outlet side of valve assembly, using pliers.
Pulled hose from valve assembly.
Valve assembly now free.
Reversed above with replacement valve assembly.

The repair itself was simple; it was the original design of the washer itself that made it time-consuming, because of the tight spaces involved. Basically, all you have to do is remove 2 plastic pins, take out the broken part, make sure you have the new part facing the right way, and put the 2 plastic pins back in. Should take 2 minutes if there are not other machine parts in the way!

I began by removing the seal from the exterior lip of the machine housing. I took a razor and removed any rubber and adhesive that remained on the unit.

Next, I remove the boot from the soap dispenser tube (located at about 11:00 of the opening) with a needlenose plyers. The manual recommends flattening a 3" copper pipe to fashon a tool to release the "bread tie" fastener. I can see why but patience with a needlenose sufficed.

I pulled the boot down from the tub housing (with much force) exposing the band that holds the boot in firmly. I one pull, both pieces came out. I could tell getting the new one is was going to be a chore.

I cleaned the area and after about 40 strenuous minutes of getting the new boot onto the tub, only a couple things remained. Even with help, be prepared to dedicate hours of frustration getting the band around the boot securing it to the tub. The working space is minimal and the task is virtually hopeless to slightly possible.

Once that's taken care of, you may feel like you can accomplish anything. The rest goes up in the order it came out. Make sure you slide the boot up as far up the soap dispensing unit as possible before securing the bread tie clamp.

Run the seal around, close the door and have one of you kids clean up the work area (and mop the blood, sweat and tears from the unit and the floor.

I watched the u-tube video and followed what he did and it was fixed. Reason it took over 15 min I had to find the correct bit for the screw. I think your web site is great thanks

I unplugged it from the outlet, undid the two screws from the top, then slid it off, opened the door and undid the two screws from the door switch lifted it out relaced it with the new one, screwed it back into place, replaced the top, plugged it back in and away it went.
Garry

Open the door. Pull the clamp off of the boot (locate spring at bottom). Peel back the boot on the right side so that you can get to the door lock and switch assy. Remove the 2 screws in the front that hold in the door lock and switch assy. Remove the wires from the old assy. Transfer the wires to the new assy. Screw in the new assy. Refit the boot and clamp. give it a try.

Removed top,removed hose from inlet valve to washer,removed hot and cold inlet hoses and with phillips screwdriver removed water inlet valve assy and replaced. Reassembled and tested.

My order arrived 2 days after i ordered same. Excellent service from partselect, Thank You....

repair wasn't too difficult, hardest was raising the drum to engage the springs.

Steps I took:

remove the rear and front (bottom) covers. To remove the rear cover, I went ahead and took the hoses off. The bottom cover needs a good tug once the two screws are removed.

Once both covers were off, it was obvious what had to be replaced.
Pushing the notch on the shocks, removed both top and bottom pieces. Then I used books to lift the drum so that i could attach the new springs. Removed the books, installed the shocks from the top to the bottom.

Went ahead and removed the coin drop, cleaned it out, and reattached. Ran the washer two cycles to confirm the vibrations were gone. Loaded it up with towels (seemed to cause the worst vibs) and it was quiet.

Re-installed the covers and that was it.

(1) Removed top of washer . (2) Open washer door . (3) Removed the two screws holding the Door Lock Sw while holding the switch from inside the machine . (4) Lifted the switch up to remove wire harness one wire at a time and reconnect to new switch . Double checked work and reinstalled switch . (5) Run washer machine make sure everything is back working . I need to add that the washer door needed to be adjusted . The bottom of the door was kicked out . Washer is now working .

Removed the outer broken section, then used pliers to spin off the inner assembly. Spun on the new knob assembly and the 18-yr.old washer is again functional. ("Lefty-Loosy; Righty-Tighty") Took less than 2 minutes. Ordering online was easy, and the part arrived in a timely manner.

It took longer to find a pliers in the garage then to replace the timer knob
with pliers removed broken timer knob then put screwed new one on done less than 2 minutes