GWS833CS0 Gibson Washer - Instructions

Purchased both the belt and idler pulley. Bought the idler pulley "to have it if it were needed" since it was only a $15 part.

Watched two videos provided on PartSelect for our model number with our symptoms. Both showed an easy access of idler pulley at the front of the washer. My emailed invoice also contained links to the video for each part.

Getting the panels off went exactly like the video. However, the idler pulley was nearly on the back side of the tub assembly/transmission and NOT easily accessed as shown in the video.

I replaced the belt and ran the washer without replacing the idler pulley. Since it performed very well agitated/spun I elected to avoid the daunting looking task of idler pulley replacement. Hung it up for "just in case" future use....again not hard to do at only $15.

Tilted the clothes washer back to provide easy access. Then after scrubbing the floor - which took most of the time of the repair, screwed out the broken leg and screwed in the new leg or SCREW. Easy peasey.

After struggeling the most with lifting out the inner drum and then the wash drum. I realized when the job was complete a better way. 1. Take the top off the washer. 2. take the front off the washer. Then disconnect all wires and hoses from assembly One small hose on the tub and the pump hose at the bottom. 3. at the bottom of the overall assembly there are 3 braces holding the tub assembly with 2 springs on each brace. Go under and remove the springs and then lift the whole assembly out into the middle of the floor. 4. remove the top cap off of the agitator. 5. remove the agitator. 6. if you are lucky and the bolts are not seized in the block that holds the shaft remove the small steel block from the bell and remove the bell. 6. Slide the inner tub up and off the shaft and again if all goes well the outer wash tub should slip up off the shaft as well. 7. remove the drive belt from the motor and transmission.

I just removed the broken foot with a pair of plyers and screwed the new one on. The decorative side panel popped right into place.

Replaced drain pump using this walk through. Different models, but pretty straight forward.

We have a washer/dryer stack type. For a week or so, my wife mentioned that washer is louder than normally is, shortly, the washer stopped spinning and the clothes were finishing soaking wet.

I opened the front panel sheet and saw the broken belt, ordered the belt online. The belt arrived in 2 days, and the actual belt-replacement took 10 minutes. The washer functional like new.

Replacing all springs. Able to replace 2 short springs and front spring. Can't get to ones in back of washer tub. Unable to use strenght in arms to remove old springs. Help videos were great. Saved money by doing repairs myself.

Poped up top, removed front pannel (2 phillip head screws) observed failed belt. Replaced belt. Tensioner can be held back by hand so it was easy. Works great. Part Select Rocks! I put in the model number and bam, there was my needed part, 3 days later it was in my hands. This was after me wasting time driving around town trying to find it at home depot type stores to no avail. I'll never do that again. This website makes repairing appliances a snap. Gotta love on-line shopping! woo hoo

I had to remove agitator and clean under it.

Just like the video said in the parts menu remove front of washer remove 2 screws remove 2 hose clamps replace pump replace 2 screws replace hoses and clamps and front door to washer done

Removed old belt. Installed new belt.

Had an electrician friend to do the removal and repair

my husband did the work he can fix anything.i watched he explained what he was doing and how he was getting it done.it did"nt take long at all.the biggest problem was setting the belt tensioner . its running great!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Pulled off back panel and found that the Drain pump had some how came loose, so I found screws and tried but still wouldn't work check pump for blockage couldn't find and but could hear the pump hum so figured the pump went bad. the hardest part was getting the squeeze type clamps off or it would have been a 30 minute job. I orederd new part and it came fed ex next day and put in and changed the bellows clamp to worm gear and made it a lot easier going in. Started washer and ran just like it was supposed to.

This is complicated repair. It requires removing the dryer unit to get access to the water valve. The repair requires 2 people. One to help stabilize the dryer in the removal process and also to hold the dryer on top of the washer once it has been taken loose. The other person does the actual repair. None of the online techs had a clue on how to do this repair. So this was a learn as you go event. First completely disconnect the unit and move it so you have access clear around the unit, as you will need to be able to get on all 4 sides. Now as you face the unit remove the angled cover panel between the dryer and washer. Behind the cover panel is another panel for rigidity, remove it. Slide your hand down the inside of dryer cover panel on the left side. This will also require a flashlight to see what you're doing. Find the 3 hex headed screws that hold the left side on on the washer. DONOT CONFUSE THESE WITH THE SCREWS ON THE OUTSIDE THAT ARE EASY TO GET TO!! There is one at the rear, then one at the center, and one right up against the edge of the front. The one at the front is almost impossible to get at. Remove the front one FIRST. ALSO LOCATE THE 2 EXTRA HOLES BY THE FRONT SCREW BEFORE YOU REMOVE THE SCREW. Cause when you get ready for the reinstall those 2 holes are an issue. If you wait to remove the front last, the dryer unit is no longer stable and it will BITE you. Now go to the right side and repeat the process. Make sure your helper has a good grip on the dryer! Remove the 2 external screws at the rear where they hold the L bracket on, one on each side. Now the 2 of you pick up the dryer and sit it on the washer. There is just enough slack in the lines, wires to accomplish this without having to disconnect any of them. Replace the water valve, this part is a no brainer. Now for the reassembly. Sit dryer back in its proper place on the washer, have your helper hold it securely. Line up the holes. Install BUT DONOT TIGHTEN the rear and center screw on each side. Now attempt to install the front screws. Make sure you get them in their correct holes, the 2 spare holes are not threaded and larger all they do is grab your screw and make you fight to get it back, which can be done. Attach the 2 external screws on the rear. Tighten all the screws now. Reinstall the structure panel on the front, and then the cover panel. Hook up unit and you're done