WDSR2080D5CC General Electric Washer - Instructions

I had to replace the water fill nozzle on my GE washer, and having the instruction video on the parts page is a real time-saver. It shows how to remove each part on your washer in order to access the area where the part needs to be replaced. Start to finish, about 20 minutes. Easy peasy.

Removed the knob from water level switch. Removed 4 screws holding the control panel cover on and leaned it out. Made sure the washer was unplugged and removed the three wires and removed the water level hose and the switch. Installed the new switch and hose plugged the wires back in and put things back together. Washer works fine now.

Removed the two hex head screws from the broken strap and replaced it with the new one. The other three straps were not broken but I also replaced them, again, one at a time. This made sense,since the machine was at least ten years old.

Removed the front cover with a screwdriver, by locating and slightly prying the metal clpis back to release the cover. Then I removed one screw (only one visible) from the strap that hold the top cover/lid down. With a little prying, I lifted the lid up out of the way, and suspended it with a cord. I removed the old dampener straps and replaced each one at a time with the new strap. It was not to hard to get to the screws (I have large arms), and it only took me nearly a half hour to complete the task. It would have been easier if I used two different size nutdrivers, but it was easy enough with an adjustable wrench. Then simply put everything back to together in reverse order of how I took it apart. The wife was impress that I fixed another thing around the house.

Repair went well but there was clips to the door switch not in the video. Still was easy to work around and complete.

Watched the video. Followed the instructions. This has to be one of the best sites I have ever encountered. Even a caveman could fix the problem after watching the video.

First removed tub comming from Tub and removed srcew to replace. Has to twist part out of slot to remove installed in reversed order. Really easy to do.

Pull hose out from wall and drain water into bucket. Remove two screws from back of washer holding on the clip. Pull hose out from washer its in there about 3 inches or so . If you order a new clip will make this even easier it's only $3.87 and I didn't realize I needed it. So, I just cut the old hose with a small saw near the clip so I could remove it and reuse it. Just slide the clip onto the end of the new hose - it fits into one of the grooves-I just made a note of where that was before removing from old hose. Then replace the two screws on the clip going to the back of washer. Put other end of hose into pipe in wall.

I followed instructional video on partselect.com, it was very easy, but it didn't take care of the problem. I got to to order "TRIPLE WATER VALVE" and that did the trick. After opening the washer first time (for water fill nozzle), it took me even less time. You don't have to take the front panel off to replace the water valve.

I watched the video and disassembled the machine pretty much the way the video showed. There were a few differences but nothing big. The noise sounded like a dry bearing but wasn't sure where it was. Read the responses and it said it was the tub bearing washer. It made some sense if it was metal on metal. It was a dry bearing (should have listened to my common sense, but these guys know more than I do when it comes to washer repair) on the transmission that had been ruined because of a leaky tub seal, which I also replaced. The transmission was not available at the time of repair (but is now) but that kind of investment may be better in a new unit. There is a video on YouTube that shows you how to replace the bearing, BUT it requires someone with some mechanical knowledge. I'll try it later in the year and if it doesn't work we'll have to purchase a new unit.

pulled front panel off it snaps in but had to get off. then remove two bolts holding too down. moved top around to get to straps. front to easy 5/16 deep socket aND rather .the other end has 1/4 socket back hard to get too not bad. took 30 minutes. didn't fix problem. on bottom of motor looks like it had rubber bumpers but none there didn't find any on parts list. went to parts house auto got two rubber freeze plugs installed them in hole on bottom of motor that stopped the noise and rube moves very little now. also install new belt . install it put it on motor then on part of pulley then roll pull while keeping belt on motor roll pulley around till belt on all the way then roll pull more pushing on belt on motor till belt fit in all groves then roll it couple more times it will line groves up on pull. install top back down then snap front panel it your done.

The after school director told me of the washing machine flooding. It took only a bit to find the hose that was leaking--a little longer to figure out where it went. It was the bleach line to the drum from the little bowl under the lid. It had pulled off.

I noticed that three of the four tub dampening straps (little rubber bungees) were broken. PartsSelect had a good exploded view of the washer that helped me locate the correct part and order it. They were shipped quickly.

Start with the machine empty of water and unplugged.

The front of the washer pops off (most have a removable top but this GE did the front instead). This exposes two screws to remove in order to lift and remove the top, exposing the tub. While you lift the lid, you have to remove the bleach line from the pocket at the front of the machine. It helped to unplug the machine and remove the lid switch to make access easier. It has two screws holding the assembly to the lid.

The straps are on the four corners of the tub, attached by hex-head screws. The two in the back aren't as easy to access. A stubby nutdriver would have helped for the screws that were upside down holding the straps to the frame. The straps were replaced and all the parts put back.

The washer is quieter and shakes much less. It was ready for the Christmas dinner washing later in the week.

Removed the old one and installed the new pump, by removing the front cover and disconnect everything.

First I found out on the web how to open the washer's front cover.
For the strap in the front, it's relatively easy to replace a strep if your hands are somewhat flexible.
For the one in the back, I also needed to open the top dial panel, in order to lift the main lid connected to it, in order to then be able to reach one of the screws of the back strap. the other one of its screws I was able to reach from the front with a ratchet and extension from the front. Arms do get heavy from time to time, but overall it was manageable.

I pulled the top off of the washer and found that my leak was coming from a small hole in the hose and water inlet. I had to remove 2 small bolts and a hose clamp to remove the old part,I did the reverse to install new part.