WCSR2090G0CC General Electric Washer - Instructions

Take off front. Take off top. Pull off agitator. Pull off agitator coupler, after removing bolt holding in place. Attempt to remove hub nut, no joy. Wound up cutting the nut with a Dremel tool and chiseling the nut off. Closer inspection revealed a bad transmission. Due to the cost of the transmission, we will continue to use the machine until it completely fails.

I took off the front of the washer with two screw drivers. Removed the hose clamps with the pliers then removed the two screws with the nut driver and changed out the pump. Nothing to it. Easy fix, it works like new for $45 and 15 minutes.

So easy to fix. The best thing about it all was the guidance of the website. We were able to locate the exact part and followed the instructions on how to replace, piece of cake!

Repair went great. The large nut had to be soaked to free it but the part was an exact fit.

I watched the YouTube video. Great help. The part was at my house less than 24 hours after I ordered. Great delivery! The repair was a no brainer even for a novice like me.

Replaced pump. New pump same manufacturer and model, but better built; however, base plate not same, requiring that I swap it for the original. Also, pump suction inlet is straight-in, whereas original has 90 degree connection. Disconnect power, and remove old pump. Purchase a 1 1/2" I.D. auto radiator hose, cut off use the 90 degree bend; it's a perfect fit to pump conn.; use a 1" PVC coupling on other end socket to mate to the washer drum convoluted drain hose socket. Throw away the crappy original G.E. hard-to-use spring hose clamps and use stainless steel automotive type gear clamps instead. WARNING: Do not try to bend, stretch, or kink the rubber tub drain hose to fit up to the pump without installing an elbow; the installation geometry must be exactly the same as the factory-designed installation. To finish the job, power up and run the machine through several cycles with the front cover off to check for leaks. You will also see why the rubber drain hose must be reinstalled as described above. This washer does not ramp down speed when in the spin cycle, and when the motor stops, the drum makes a sudden 15 to 30 degree rotation, stretching the drain hose to it's limit. Finally, keep your hands out of the machine when it's running; the motor, belt, and transmission drive can cause some real damage if you get tangled up in them. Pay attention to what you are doing; if you are confused by my little dissertation, hire someone qualified to do the job for you.

Repair was done with the help of step by step insructions available on utube, just enter model# and the repair you need to do. One problem I had was new tub seal{GE part] was a little smaller in diamater than the seal I removed And still leaked when I first ran washer So I took it back out and used a sealer [Permatex Indian Head gasket shellac compound from auto parts store] as recommended by one of the the repair techs on utube and it sealed it perfectly, just let it set op for about three hours and nice and dry now

Unpluged from out let. the I just took the front off then I took the bolts out of the mounting bracket and the took the hoses off unpluged the plug. We pluged the plug in the new piece put the hoses back on rebolted the braket down put the front on and plug the eletric back in and did the load thank you soo much

After doing some research on the problem I decided that the rubber tub dampers were probably the problem. Replacing them was simple and straight forward after watching the video. A test spin after installation revealed that the problem still existed. This time I watched the bottom of the tub with a flashlight as the spin cycle began and I discovered that the concrete counter-weight was loose on its platform. General Electric had attached a 5 lb concrete block to the tub support with two self tapping sheet metal screws that had stripped out. I screwed the screws back in and added two nuts to the protruding screw bottom and locked them together. Problem solved. The main difficulty in this repair is reaching to the back of the washing while laying on the floor. And sharp edges on everything.

The repair was done as describe by others with the "hub nut" having to be cut off due to corrosion. Instructions for removal of the tub were found inside the control panel area on the left hand side. Ordering s new hub nut and cutting off the old one proved to be a necessity.

As the video described. The two rear dampening straps holding screws were only accessible from underneath making their installation much more difficult than the front ones which were accessible from the top.

Very easy,thanks to partselect.good guess to found the problem and parts delivery on 2 days. Thanks again partselect .

This was not hard to do.removed top screws and back plate screws. Water inlet valve has 3 screws and a hose clamp.this job was thirty min. tops.goes back together much faster then taking it apart.

removed three screws from back panel used putty knife to remove front panel and dampening strap were there to remove.

Took the front cover off and tapped the motor on the old pump with the end of a screwdriver. The pump immediately started pumping,so, I knew it was the problem. Ordered the new pump and motor from PartSelect and received it in 2 days. Removed the old assembly and replaced it with the new one in less than 30 minutes per the video instructions on PartSelect's website. Wife is happy :) and I saved at least $100 bucks, probably more. Btw, a local appliance dealer where I bought the washer, wanted $63 for the pump/motor assembly and said it would take 4-5 days to get it. I paid $42 including shipping from PartSelect, and received it in 2 days!