WCCD2050D1KC General Electric Washer - Instructions

I had to take out the front panel to access the Tub. Afterward the work wasn't hard.

Ordered new pump on Sunday - replaced on Wednesday. Removed front washer panel with putty knife to release latches. Used pliers to disconnect hose clamps. Lots of paper towels to sop up water in bottom of washer and on floor. Unhooked electrical wires. Socket to remove pump. Reverse actions to replace pump. It's "plug and play"!

I pulled up on the agitator with a quick upward jerk to remove the agitator, then I used a 7/16 socket to take the bolt out of the coupling, pulled up on the coupling and removed it. Took the new coupling sit it on top of the shaft, I turned the coupling slowly to line the grooves of the shaft to the grooves on the coupling, then I pushed the coupling down onto the shaft, put new bolt in the coupling and tightened it down, then I lined the agitator grooves up with the grooves on the coupling then pushed agitator down until it snapped in place on the coupling.

Replaced the plastic agitator coupler

The front panel has to be taken off to access the washing machine pump. To do this I used a putty knife I inserted the putty knife in the slot at the top of the front panel where it meets the top of the machine to release the clip that holds the panel in place. Once the panel is off the pump is mounted to the bottom of the machine with two screws. There are also two hoses attached to the pump that need to be taken off. Before you do this you have to get as much water out of the machine as you can to minimize the amount of water that will come out when you disconnect the hoses. My recommendation is to replace the spring type hose clamps the manufacturer uses with a screw type hose clamp. These are much easier to put back on once the hoses are in place. You are not fighting the spring clamp while trying to put the hose on in a confined space. Then put the front panel back on. This may take about a half hour if you do not have too much clean up because you didn’t get enough water out of the machine.

I had to insert a broom stick to keep the drive pulley from rotating as I hammered the tub nut loose.

2nd tip, my washer has the standard agitator with the glued on cap; it was unclear if I needed to remove it; you should clarify that this is not necessary, that one must only pop up the entire agitator; I used a shipping strap looped under the agitator and over a 2x4 across the top of the frame, tightening until the tub was raised a bit and then a gentle pop down on the tub and the agitator easily popped off.

Could not complete repair. The pulsator was rusted on the shaft, used wd 40, finally pried off the shaft. The hub nut was so corroded on the shaft I could not remove it. Reassembled the Machine.

Pull off the agitator. Remove 1 bolt on coupler pull off coupler. Slide new coupler onto spindle. Replace bolt. Line up and slide on agitator. Seat it firmly in place. Done. Took all of 2 minutes.

(As I am an older female, I used YouTube to review the repair before trying it. YouTube scared me, the actual repair was much easier) I removed the agitator from the washer which revealed the agitator assembly held in place by a bolt. After removing the bolt, the assembly was lifted off the spindle. I cleaned the grime off the agitator, the spindle and the bottom of the washer basket. New agitator assembly was placed onto the spindle and pushed down. There was a distinctive click when it slid into place. I replaced the bolt to the top of the assembly. tightened it down, then slid the agitator over the assembly, matching grooves to teeth until that also slid into place with a click. It honestly took me longer to clean the grime than to change the part. Agitator is working perfectly

Removed the front panel. Removed the washer top. Removed and replaced each strap. Very simple repair.

figerout how to take the old one off that was a little hard to do but did it. got the socket set to get the middle undone. clean to out and put the new one in and it works just fine and better then ever.

I had already removed the old coupling by removing pulling the agitator straight up off the coupling, then I removed the bolt that held the coupling in, and pulled the coupling up off the shaft.
I placed the new coupling on the shaft and pushed it down until it seated, put in the new bolt that came with the coupling, replaced the agitator, and was washing clothes within 10 minutes.
On time delivery, right part, complete with instructions.
Good job.

Could have removed debis in old pump. Kept it as a spare.
Replacement was simple , (two nuts) & (2 Lg. Hose Clamps) + two wires.
Dealer wanted $168.00 Labor + $67.00 for part!.

Repair went well but there was clips to the door switch not in the video. Still was easy to work around and complete.

I watched the video and disassembled the machine pretty much the way the video showed. There were a few differences but nothing big. The noise sounded like a dry bearing but wasn't sure where it was. Read the responses and it said it was the tub bearing washer. It made some sense if it was metal on metal. It was a dry bearing (should have listened to my common sense, but these guys know more than I do when it comes to washer repair) on the transmission that had been ruined because of a leaky tub seal, which I also replaced. The transmission was not available at the time of repair (but is now) but that kind of investment may be better in a new unit. There is a video on YouTube that shows you how to replace the bearing, BUT it requires someone with some mechanical knowledge. I'll try it later in the year and if it doesn't work we'll have to purchase a new unit.