EWA6500D0WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

Removed the front panel. Removed the washer top. Removed and replaced each strap. Very simple repair.

Removed knobs ,removed screws on back plate , removed. Back plate ,played plate on top of washer after putting a towel down to keep scratching, disconecte wireing replaced both boards and reverse instructions. Pushed button and it started right up.vidio was very helpful .

(As I am an older female, I used YouTube to review the repair before trying it. YouTube scared me, the actual repair was much easier) I removed the agitator from the washer which revealed the agitator assembly held in place by a bolt. After removing the bolt, the assembly was lifted off the spindle. I cleaned the grime off the agitator, the spindle and the bottom of the washer basket. New agitator assembly was placed onto the spindle and pushed down. There was a distinctive click when it slid into place. I replaced the bolt to the top of the assembly. tightened it down, then slid the agitator over the assembly, matching grooves to teeth until that also slid into place with a click. It honestly took me longer to clean the grime than to change the part. Agitator is working perfectly

This repair was a no brainer repair. The factory replacement knob that I bought from this site comes with a new "D"-Ring. Some other aftermarket parts houses sell the knob and the "D"-Ring as seperate parts. The knob from this site already has the "D"-Ring ring installed in the knob. My "D"-ring was broken and I simply removed it with my fingers. All I had to do was properly align the new know knob with the timer shaft and press it into place. If your "D"-ring is not broken and not still inside the old knob, you will need to pull it off the shaft with a pair of pliers before pressing the new knob onto the timer shaft. Dr. "B" The Hot Rod Doc

Removed the two hex head screws from the broken strap and replaced it with the new one. The other three straps were not broken but I also replaced them, again, one at a time. This made sense,since the machine was at least ten years old.

Removed the front cover with a screwdriver, by locating and slightly prying the metal clpis back to release the cover. Then I removed one screw (only one visible) from the strap that hold the top cover/lid down. With a little prying, I lifted the lid up out of the way, and suspended it with a cord. I removed the old dampener straps and replaced each one at a time with the new strap. It was not to hard to get to the screws (I have large arms), and it only took me nearly a half hour to complete the task. It would have been easier if I used two different size nutdrivers, but it was easy enough with an adjustable wrench. Then simply put everything back to together in reverse order of how I took it apart. The wife was impress that I fixed another thing around the house.

Wife put on the new part and she used a pair of plires and it was a little difficult to get her hand in the tiny spot but she put it on in less than 15 minuets and it is working great.

The hardest part is lifting the washer to get a the bottom. Disconnect the power, shut off water. Disconnect hoses and drain hose. Move washer from the wall about 2 feet. Tilt up front of washer. I used 4 12" long 8x8 inch lumber, lift washer….place one on each from corner. Lift again, place 1 more 4x4 on each existing 4x4. Now remove the belt off the 3 pulleys. Use the flat blade screw driver to remove the C clip holding the Pully on the shaft, with the flat bladed screw driver and hammer. Once the C clip is off remove the metal washer, pulley, plastic lock (apart of the bottom of the pulley & the thrush bearing and it's washer. Using the parts supplied (the "new thrush bearing is a bearing and washer combined) replace as you removed it. Thrust bearing, pulley, washer and, c clip. I tapped mine on using the flat bladed screw drive……becareful not to break it (they did supply 2 for me in the repair packet) make sure he c clip is secured. Lower the washer after removing all the tools from under the washer, by reversing the lift sequence. Slide the washer in place. Connect the hoses back up. Plug it in.Reconnect the drain hose, you should be good to go.

pulled front panel off it snaps in but had to get off. then remove two bolts holding too down. moved top around to get to straps. front to easy 5/16 deep socket aND rather .the other end has 1/4 socket back hard to get too not bad. took 30 minutes. didn't fix problem. on bottom of motor looks like it had rubber bumpers but none there didn't find any on parts list. went to parts house auto got two rubber freeze plugs installed them in hole on bottom of motor that stopped the noise and rube moves very little now. also install new belt . install it put it on motor then on part of pulley then roll pull while keeping belt on motor roll pulley around till belt on all the way then roll pull more pushing on belt on motor till belt fit in all groves then roll it couple more times it will line groves up on pull. install top back down then snap front panel it your done.

REMOVED THE AGITATOR BY LIFTING STRAIGHT UP WITH MY HANDS. COULDN'T REMOVE THE COUPLING WITH THE NUTDRIVER AT FIRST, DUE TO RUST. SPRAYED A LITTLE WD40. LET IT SET FOR FIVE MINUTES AND REMOVED THE SCREW VERY EASY WITH THE PLIERS. TOOK OUT THE OLD COUPLING AND REPLACED IT WITH THE NEW ONE. THANKS FOR THE YOU-TUBE INFO.

My rubber start button gave out after 10+ years...kept getting stuck inward and was unreliable. I thought about buying a new washer but my old one still works fine and the new ones are super expensive! My wife and I only do a couple of loads per week so decided to try to fix it ourselves.

Ordered a new one from this site. Was about $20.00 for the new button, but I have not spent a dime in over 10 years! I just cannot believe how easy it is to find the part and place an order. All you really need to do is to find the tag on the washer with the model number. What a fantastic business and website!

The install was easy...pulled out the old one using a pair of needle nose pliers (still useable in an emergency) and installed the new one. I was smart enough to coat the new one with a little Vaseline and it slipped (wiggled) right into place. For the record, the washer works just fine without the button too.

Glad I tried to fix it. Would have cost me a couple hundred bucks for a professional repair.

Good work ! PERFECT!

Watch the videos you might be a little skeptical at first. I watched the videos about 8-10 times before I bought the part so I took my part out first then got back on you tube watched a few more videos and got on parts select website found the part matched it up to what I pulled out of my washer ordered it got to me in a weeks time put it in and working like new again cost about 14.00 shipping and part together saved about 200.00 per my estimate I had to fix it.

I watched the video and disassembled the machine pretty much the way the video showed. There were a few differences but nothing big. The noise sounded like a dry bearing but wasn't sure where it was. Read the responses and it said it was the tub bearing washer. It made some sense if it was metal on metal. It was a dry bearing (should have listened to my common sense, but these guys know more than I do when it comes to washer repair) on the transmission that had been ruined because of a leaky tub seal, which I also replaced. The transmission was not available at the time of repair (but is now) but that kind of investment may be better in a new unit. There is a video on YouTube that shows you how to replace the bearing, BUT it requires someone with some mechanical knowledge. I'll try it later in the year and if it doesn't work we'll have to purchase a new unit.

I had to insert a broom stick to keep the drive pulley from rotating as I hammered the tub nut loose.

2nd tip, my washer has the standard agitator with the glued on cap; it was unclear if I needed to remove it; you should clarify that this is not necessary, that one must only pop up the entire agitator; I used a shipping strap looped under the agitator and over a 2x4 across the top of the frame, tightening until the tub was raised a bit and then a gentle pop down on the tub and the agitator easily popped off.

Could not complete repair. The pulsator was rusted on the shaft, used wd 40, finally pried off the shaft. The hub nut was so corroded on the shaft I could not remove it. Reassembled the Machine.