WBSE7003A0WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

Very easy just pull straight up on agitator and remove bolt on coupler. Install new coupler and line up agitator and push down. Done

The worst part of the repair was removing the old hub nut. Don't bother messing with the spanner wrench, unless the washing machine has never been used. Split the nut off with a SHARP cold chisel and a heavy hammer. Be very careful not to damage the threads, because not even GE can or will tell you the die size to re-dress the threads if you damage them. Check drain pump motor to remove debris before using washer. Parts were delivered in a quick and efficient manner.

Popped the lid and activated the lid switch. Agitator danced around but the tub not moving. Agitator was un-snapped so no issue getting it out. Forgot to shut the timer down. By the time I came back with container's for wet laundry the pump emptied the water. Found this web site for parts and liked what I saw on the help. The video was a nice overview but can forget about trying to save the hub nut. The trans shaft has 4 flats on it and years of crud gets drawn into the threads sealing it like it was epoxied in with rust. This one is a 13yr old.
Spent most time reading the help stories and gathering up tools. My concern was getting the bad parts out and that hub nut without more damage. Finally found a 1924 vintage 9" monkey wrench I forgot I had and it fit just fine for putting it back together. I put a 1/8" bit in the drill and put a hole in center of nut next to the flats about 1/8" down by 3 of the flats. Wacked the nut in 2 locations with the chisel in the unwind direction with the corner of the chisel in the hole to put a grove on the nut so to keep away from damaging trans shaft. It finally came off in 3 pieces.
After pulling the basket stuck a rag in the drain hole. The basket sounds like it has water in it but its the counter weight attached on top. Brushed up the crud on trans shaft and sponged out the remaining water and other particles.
Next was a pump inspection. If you take the input line off you can see the impeller to remove any stuff that may damage it. Have to un-bolt the pump be careful on the wiring to pump trying to unplug the wires may damage the connectors or even worse the pump. I mostly had crud in the water on the line.
Ordered the needed parts, and cleaned up the tub, reinstalled the pump. After the parts arrived took about a 1/2 hour to put it in service again. Don't forget to wack the hub nut on tight when installing so it wont come off in use.
Many thanks to all in sharing their story it helped me out to see what to expect.

The hardest part is lifting the washer to get a the bottom. Disconnect the power, shut off water. Disconnect hoses and drain hose. Move washer from the wall about 2 feet. Tilt up front of washer. I used 4 12" long 8x8 inch lumber, lift washer….place one on each from corner. Lift again, place 1 more 4x4 on each existing 4x4. Now remove the belt off the 3 pulleys. Use the flat blade screw driver to remove the C clip holding the Pully on the shaft, with the flat bladed screw driver and hammer. Once the C clip is off remove the metal washer, pulley, plastic lock (apart of the bottom of the pulley & the thrush bearing and it's washer. Using the parts supplied (the "new thrush bearing is a bearing and washer combined) replace as you removed it. Thrust bearing, pulley, washer and, c clip. I tapped mine on using the flat bladed screw drive……becareful not to break it (they did supply 2 for me in the repair packet) make sure he c clip is secured. Lower the washer after removing all the tools from under the washer, by reversing the lift sequence. Slide the washer in place. Connect the hoses back up. Plug it in.Reconnect the drain hose, you should be good to go.

The picture of how to depress the clips to remove the front was incorrect. The clips are 4" from the sides not immediately at the sides per the picture. The 4 rubber springs were only part of what was needed for the washer. The old gas dryer was still working. There are two more springs on the bottom of the tub missing not shown on diagrams, so it still sways side to side, bangs around and makes a lot of noise. After putting on the 4 rubber springs, it ran, but probably needed a new clutch also, because it wouldn't spin dry anymore. I ended up spending $2000 for new washer and dryer from Maytag, and throwing out these old machines today.

I had to take out the front panel to access the Tub. Afterward the work wasn't hard.

Pulled front panel of washing machine, removed hose, installed new hose, and wipped up water.Simple!!!

Watched the repair video on PartSelect website , repair was exactly as they showed on video , grab old agitator at base , give a quick pull and it popped right off , lined up tabs to coupler with new agitator and gave a sharp push down and new agitator snapped right on. Total repair time was approx 5 minutes .

Followed the instructions from internet videos and diagrams provided by GE behind the electric panel. The hub nut and remnants of the broken hub had to be ground off. As with the other repairers, the grinding presented some difficulty. Particular care must be taken not to grind into the shaft or other parts on it. Not having much experience in fixing appliances, it came as a surprise that the washer functioned normally after the job was completed. The effort took an afternoon and spilled into the evening.

Well first I had to remove the control panel and that was nice because there was a diagram of the washer in there. So after that I just removed the top, front panel of the washer and top of the drum. Since the hub was broken all around I was able to remove the drum without removing the big nut or the part of the hub that was still attached to the shaft.
This gave me a little more room to remove the nut and hub. The nut was difficult and tight. I struggled with it for some time and got nowhere. I then realized that the nut was aluminum and so I just heated it up a bit and it came off with little effort. I had to heat up the remaining part of the hub also to get it off.
It doesn’t take much heat to get these parts moving. I used a small torch but a heat gun would be better. Also I painted the new hub to try to slow down the corrosion effect water has on the pot metal. I just used some rattle can engine paint I had.
I then cleaned all the parts and put it all back together and all is good.

Remove top of washer, 2 screws,support washer tub use wood block,s to support washer tub, remove old support rod replace with new, that's it, replace top, done. Thank You

I pulled up on the agitator with a quick upward jerk to remove the agitator, then I used a 7/16 socket to take the bolt out of the coupling, pulled up on the coupling and removed it. Took the new coupling sit it on top of the shaft, I turned the coupling slowly to line the grooves of the shaft to the grooves on the coupling, then I pushed the coupling down onto the shaft, put new bolt in the coupling and tightened it down, then I lined the agitator grooves up with the grooves on the coupling then pushed agitator down until it snapped in place on the coupling.

Replaced the plastic agitator coupler

Watch the videos you might be a little skeptical at first. I watched the videos about 8-10 times before I bought the part so I took my part out first then got back on you tube watched a few more videos and got on parts select website found the part matched it up to what I pulled out of my washer ordered it got to me in a weeks time put it in and working like new again cost about 14.00 shipping and part together saved about 200.00 per my estimate I had to fix it.

I followed instructional video on partselect.com, it was very easy, but it didn't take care of the problem. I got to to order "TRIPLE WATER VALVE" and that did the trick. After opening the washer first time (for water fill nozzle), it took me even less time. You don't have to take the front panel off to replace the water valve.