PTAN6250M0WT General Electric Washer - Instructions

FIRST, TURNED OFF THE MAIN VALVE INTO THE HOME..AND BLED THE LINES. USED A SMALL BUCKET AND DISCONNECTED THE LINES FROM THE WASHER. TOOK THE PLATE OFF THE WASHER AND DISCONNECTED THE OLD INLET VALVE CONNECTED THE NEW VALVE AND REPLACED THE COVER PLATE. SINCE I HAD THE MACHINE DISCONNECTED, I PUT NEW WATER LINES AND REPLACED THE HAT AND COLD WATER VALVES WITH NEW 1/4 TURN BOILER BALL VALVES. TURNED THE WATER BACK ONTO THE HOUSE AND RAN THE FAUCET SO THERE WOULD BE NO AIR IN THE LINES WHEN I TURNED THE WATER ON TO THE WASHER.

The "service kit belt tool" was difficult to install, but I oonsider it a necessity. We tried installing the belt without the tool, and the belt kept snapping off the motor drive pulley. Using a cable tie to hold the belt to the drum pulley did not work. I used a length of heavy duty duct tape instead, and that worked OK. Unfortunately, the whining noise is still present with the new belt, so a GE service technician visit has been scheduled. Our belt replacement effort has not been totally wasted, unless the washer can't be repaired economically, since the old belt was fraying.

Took all apart.. front off,top off, took basket top off..took the basket assembley out by unhooking the four shocks. Took a picture of all wireing and fittings. Then came the most difficult. The main nut that holds the basket to the main shaft. If you do not have one of the wrenches made for that nut good luck. Between all the gunk and rusty parts around it. It would not budge. I used a pipe wrench and a 3# hammer and it wouldnt budge. It is a oppisite drive nut so it comes off in reverse as a regular one. I ordered the wrench on line to use on the new one i orderd. Had to because the nut was getting chewed up. So waiting to order the parts i needed i ground down the nut with my angle grinder.. worked well. Knowing i had to replace the main drive and bearing it wasnt that bad. Got the nut off... pulled the basket out and then the shot seal. Really looked tore up. So because of the seal leaking, the water drips down onto the main drive and thats what ruined it. Cleaned everything up really nice.. went to put the new seal in and noticed it didnt fit as tight as it should.. so i put some silicone around it and installed everything back together. Still thinking of the seal still i went ahead and finished it all and guess what. It leaked.. the seal in my opinion needs to fit over top of the plastic main bucket not just inside of it. After researching the same problem some guys said they filled the bearing seat with silicone and it helped. Others say the plastic tub needs replaced because the bearing seat is wore out.. the tub is like $70.00. The seal is $8.00. So, what to do? Buy another tub and seal and hope the seal fits in tight, or gob alot of silicone on the seal and older tank and see.. the washer new was like $600.00. Been dicontinued now. The main shaft assembley was $160.00... seal$8.00.. the tool for $15.00...misc stuff still comes out to $200.00 . Now to buy a new tub? Is it worth it or not.. we'll see

It was easy, I just removed the old drain hose clip with a screwdriver. Next, removed the old, cracked hose, inserted the new one, and screwed the new clip in.
The best part about this story is the incredible service I was given, by this company. I bought the machine at Sears, so I assumed I could find the hose their. No, they instructed me to go to Orchard Supply(their sister store), I purchased a drain hose, the clerk told me to buy, but the water was still leaking. So, I went on-line and found the right hose, and now I will continue to purchase what I ned for my machine from your company. REALLY Fast Service. Thanks

used a socket to unscrew the clip. pulled out the old hose, slid the new hose into the clip and screwed the clip back on. all fixes should be this easy.

a) remove front panel by depressing the 2 clips at the top in line with the lid b) remove the lid switch and 2 screws holding top on and remove top by tilting up SLIGHTLY and sliding to left. c) Remove agitator and by pulling straight up on it and remove adapter underneath d)remove 4 bolts holding 4 rubber straps to top of tub assembly, readily visible when top is removed. e) unplug motor wiring and disconnect pump and bleach hoses from tub f)while lifting up on tub, push down on each of the 4 suspension rods and disconnect them at bottom of tub ( this is the most difficult part, and to make it easier disconnect the rear rods first) g) tilt tub forward and remove tub assembly h) NOW, for the big nut that holds the spin basket in-- #1, it is LEFT HAND THREAD, so you will turn it to the right to remove it. #2, it is VERY TIGHT and requires a 1&11/16" spanner wrench (which I did not have) for removal. Instead, I used a 1&11/16 socket, an extension and an air impact wrench to remove and replace the nut. Assembly is reverse of removal and remember, that nut is ALUMINUM so be careful with that impact wrench when tightening it back up!I replaced the nut and split ring and cleaned the whole area thoroughly, and it greatly reduced the noise in spin mode. I did not replace the metal housing on the bottom of the spin basket, because it was $50 bucks. this probably would have eliminated all the noise, but my repair only cost $19 in parts, including shipping ,and the parts arrived in 1 day.

First, remove the old water pump by disconnecting the respective hose, then wipe the area where the pump was, and proceeded to connect the new water pump, of course I did all this with the machine disconnected from the power electric, then proceeded to connect the inlet hoses of hot water and cold water, electricity connected to the machine and did a test with clothes in the washing machine. and now everything is going well, thanks for your valuable help.
sincerely, a satisfied customer

Pretty much the entire machine has to come apart to replace a transmission. The thing to know that no one mentioned is that the hub nut is reverse threaded - that means righty loosey.
Even if I had known, I tried it both ways and I doubt I could have gotten it off without the chisel as the others also had to do. Split ring was also frozen in place by hard water and soap scum so had to break that cheesey piece of aluminum off also. If you are taking apart your washer, I advise ordering these 2 parts so you will have them after you destroy the old ones trying to get to the part you need to fix.

Thanks to parts select for the exploded diagram!

Followed instructions from video for shaft and mode shifter assembly and tub bearing, all went as in video except extremely difficult to remove tub nut. Could not get nut to loosen and when it did finally move it was spinning the whole shaft, had to have the shaft held with a pipe wrench from underneath (2nd person). The tub seal was another issue, removal was easy just as in the video but because water had gotten inside the seal it caused the internal metal of the seal to corrode and rust which deformed the old seal and the plastic of the tub where the seal sits. There was no way the new seal would go in and be tight enough to seal so I put a hose clamp around it, heated the plastic with a heat gun just enough to be able to tighten the clamp several times, let it cool and removed the clamp. It held its shape and the new seal went in snug so I proceeded with the reassembly. Test ran the washer and checked for leaks, no leaks. It has been a week now and approximately 10 loads of clothes cleaned, all is good.

First I googled the problem. Then ordered your part, from specs on your website. Went to Lowes and bout butt splicers. Then when I got email that it shipped I watched the video attached. Awesome. Very proud as I am a woman. Video was excellent. Thank you, Maureen

R&R Leaking/Damaged Hose and replaced it with the new one. One thing to be aware of is that after removing screws from the discharge hose upon removing the damaged one there was some water that did not expel from the unit so there was about a cup of water that came out. After removing the leaking hose you will need to remove the retaining plastic piece so that it can be placed on the replacement hose. Or if you ordered one put it on the hose so that it can retain the end of the hose in the washer. The anti-siphon clip is located about half way up the back of the washer it simply clips in place.

Removed center fabric softener cup. removed agitator holding NUT & washer. Lifted off agitator. Pried off Coupling Pulsator.
Cleaned off all parts (soap Scum )
Installed new Coupling Pulsator (tapped gently down with wood hammer handle) Installed agitator& hold down nut&washer. Installed softener cup.
Job done & noise gone .
Thanks Part Select

I researched what could be the problem in the internet and follow the instructions from a GE technician, I chose the problem from a list and followed the video the technician played on how to do it yourself. This time was the lid switch which is found visible under the lid opening usually right middle flush with the opening. When I got the new lid, only the switch gets bad so I cut the cable enough to replace the old one, pulled out and cut and connected the new one. If there is not enough cable use the spatula to push the clips on the front panel on the top both side about 5 inches from the corner and pull panel out front and now you can see the wires better and make the connection.

I watched the video from the web site and the one that came with my invoice. This made it very easy to fix.I got the tools that I needed and went to town on the repair.

First I located the trouble. I noticed that it was water leaking and figured it had to be a hose. I took the front panel off of the washer and after noticing that the drain hose had a slight hole in it, realized that I could fix it and save myself a repair call. I undid the two hose clamps and removed the hose. I went to a local repair shop that could not guarantee the right part. I went online and found Parts Select.com. I entered minimal information and the picture of the item that I was looking for, the Drain Inlet Hose, was staring at me! Within 3 business days and less than 20 dollars spent, I repaired my washing machine. The total time spent to repair after I received the hose took about 10 minutes. I will definitely use parts select .com and recommend to all my friends and family. Thank you.