GNSE3160A0WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

after ordering part and getting the wrong part sent to me i was able to finally get right part to my house 2 weeks later, i pulled front cover off with a screwdriver took out broke rod and inserted new part closed cover and hooked power back on and was in business

ORDER Spanner wrench for GE tub nut. Impossible to remove hub nut on a washer with age without it. Purchase 1 11/16 in spanner wrench, tub seal, hub nut , split nut
and washer under
agitator all at one time or you will struggle with this repair. The few cents you save is not worth it, the video they provide does a good job but theirs washer
is new hope this helps

Use paint scraper to release spring tabs holding front cover on.

Removed 2 screws holding lid down, and lifted up but did not remove top cover and control panel.

R/R 2 hex screws holding strap in place. If you are lucky and the broken strap is up front this is a super fast repair. Those of you with a rear strap will want to disconnect the wiring harness to the lid switch and likely remove the top panel (+ <5 mins).

Super easy and super cheap!

IT was so easy to replace the pump. I think the hardest part was trying to get the pliers to work right. All I had to do was unscrew two bolts, take off two pipes, get the new pump and replace the pipes and bolts. It was that easy.

First I took off the old coupling (one screw). Put the new coupling on, lined up and snapped the new agitator onto the new coupling.
Repair took les than 5 minutes. The longest part of the whole process was lining up the agitator to the coupling.

It was easy, I just removed the old drain hose clip with a screwdriver. Next, removed the old, cracked hose, inserted the new one, and screwed the new clip in.
The best part about this story is the incredible service I was given, by this company. I bought the machine at Sears, so I assumed I could find the hose their. No, they instructed me to go to Orchard Supply(their sister store), I purchased a drain hose, the clerk told me to buy, but the water was still leaking. So, I went on-line and found the right hose, and now I will continue to purchase what I ned for my machine from your company. REALLY Fast Service. Thanks

I looked at the instructions for removing the tub that are on the back of the circuit diagram included in the panel behind the controls. I followed the directions. As one of your commenters had noted, the aluminum Hub Nut is practically impossible to get a hold on without a special wrench so I chiseled it off. That was the most difficult and time comsuming part . I found some pieces of the old hub in the drain line and blocking the drain pump. Be sure to check for this before reassembling and using the washer.

a) remove front panel by depressing the 2 clips at the top in line with the lid b) remove the lid switch and 2 screws holding top on and remove top by tilting up SLIGHTLY and sliding to left. c) Remove agitator and by pulling straight up on it and remove adapter underneath d)remove 4 bolts holding 4 rubber straps to top of tub assembly, readily visible when top is removed. e) unplug motor wiring and disconnect pump and bleach hoses from tub f)while lifting up on tub, push down on each of the 4 suspension rods and disconnect them at bottom of tub ( this is the most difficult part, and to make it easier disconnect the rear rods first) g) tilt tub forward and remove tub assembly h) NOW, for the big nut that holds the spin basket in-- #1, it is LEFT HAND THREAD, so you will turn it to the right to remove it. #2, it is VERY TIGHT and requires a 1&11/16" spanner wrench (which I did not have) for removal. Instead, I used a 1&11/16 socket, an extension and an air impact wrench to remove and replace the nut. Assembly is reverse of removal and remember, that nut is ALUMINUM so be careful with that impact wrench when tightening it back up!I replaced the nut and split ring and cleaned the whole area thoroughly, and it greatly reduced the noise in spin mode. I did not replace the metal housing on the bottom of the spin basket, because it was $50 bucks. this probably would have eliminated all the noise, but my repair only cost $19 in parts, including shipping ,and the parts arrived in 1 day.

used a socket to unscrew the clip. pulled out the old hose, slid the new hose into the clip and screwed the clip back on. all fixes should be this easy.

Removed 4 screwes on the top of the washer. Layed down the control panel and there was the inlets. Removed two screws and loosened the hose clamp. removed and installed new part.
It did the trick. No more problems.

the parts you sent were same as G.E. parts and fit with very little labor on my part Just follow the directions parts snap right in place washer is good as new thanks for speedy delivery. L. Neal Seymour In.




















thanks for speedy

Pulled agitator off existing agitator coupling. Removed and replaced agitator coupling. Snapped agitator on. One of the easiest appliance repairs I have ever attempted.

R&R Leaking/Damaged Hose and replaced it with the new one. One thing to be aware of is that after removing screws from the discharge hose upon removing the damaged one there was some water that did not expel from the unit so there was about a cup of water that came out. After removing the leaking hose you will need to remove the retaining plastic piece so that it can be placed on the replacement hose. Or if you ordered one put it on the hose so that it can retain the end of the hose in the washer. The anti-siphon clip is located about half way up the back of the washer it simply clips in place.

Remove agitator. Remove coupling. Reinstall new coupling. Reinstall agitator. My only problem was the 7 day delay in getting the part. I expected 2-day delivery.

You tube is the only way to go!