Models > GCVH6600H0GG

GCVH6600H0GG General Electric Washer

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Diagrams for GCVH6600H0GG

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Also known as Bellow. The part may differ in appearance but functions same as original.
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This pump helps expel water from the washing machine and is activated after the spin speed is maintained for a specific period of time. This pump has sound isolation mounting washers and a filter.
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$103.05
The main drive belt is designed to work with the motor pulley and spin the drum until it comes up to speed. NOTE: Per factory measures 48.4" at rest & 51.2" when working.
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Sold individually. This part helps stop your washer from shaking uncontrollably during a spin cycle.
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This part is used to turn the drive belt with the help of the motor or transmission.
No Longer Available
This water inlet valve attaches the water lines to the back of your appliance. The attaching solenoids on the valve open and close according to the desired temperature, or amount of water needed.
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This is the replacement water inlet pipe or water inlet valve for your washer. It is made of white plastic and is approximately 8.5 inches by 3 inches, with an opening diameter of approximately 2.5 in...
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Sold individually. Appliance normally takes 2.
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No Longer Available

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Common Problems and Symptoms for GCVH6600H0GG

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Leaking
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Will not drain
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Fixing
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Burning smell
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Will not agitate
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Will Not Start
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No hot or cold water
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Lid or door won’t close
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Customer:
Brandon from Chugiak, AK
Parts Used:
WH08X10036
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
More than 2 hours
Tools:
Screw drivers, Wrench set
Water leaking from the door.
I had to replace the door gasket because there was a small piece that had torn away, which caused large amounts of water to leak when the load of laundry was too big. Smaller loads of laundry would just produce a little bit of water.
Unsure of how to replace the gasket, I used a phillips screwdriver to pull the door and front panel off. I thought that this would be pretty simple, but I soon discovered that it wasn't as simple as removing several screws and pulling the pieces off. The door was easy, the bottom panel was easy, but the front panel was held in place by screws, plastic tabs, the front of the gasket (I'll explain later), and gravity by means of plastic supports. Trying to find and release the tabs, lifting the panel up and out was not self-explanatory. I finally figured it out, and it made changing the gasket out, a breeze. The gasket is held in by two diferent wire spring clamps/bands. One band holds the gasket to the outside of the tub, and the other band holds the gasket to the front panel. Before removing the front panel you must remove the first band which is cleverly hidden by the face of the rubber gasket. Just peel it back...it's in there. I was able to pull/pry this off with a screwdriver because I was not worried about damaging the old gasket. The second band had to be removed with either a 6mm/7mm wrench(I can't remember which) or a stubby phillips screwdriver. The stubby screwdriver is handy because of the proximity of the tubs counterweights. Once the final band is removed just peel the gasket away from the tub, after taking note of how it came off. Put the fully loosened band on the new gasket and fit the new gasket into place. It helped to have two sets of hands to work it around the tub, but probably not necessary. The wrench is necessary to properly tighten the band, because you cannot get enough torque on the stubby screwdriver.Once the gasket is in place you can re-install the front panel, and secure the front of the gasket to the panel. Install the band and it will secure itself by the tension of the spring. Put the door back on and you are ready to wash clothes.
219 of 256 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
BRETT from CLINTON, CT
Parts Used:
WH08X10024, WH07X10016
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Rear Tub Pulley became loose and deformed pulley shaft
Ordered new Parts. Removed old/worn parts. Found that the "hammering" from a loose pulley had worn and deformed the edges of the shaft where the flats are to accept new pulley.
Gently filed the flats with the flat surface of the file and filed the hump on the shaft that the "hammering" created. Take extreme caution to not file surfa ces too much, because new pulley will be loose and the next step is to replace the drum shaft.($$$$) Pulley did not fit 100% (Had some slop) but that was from material being worn away from "hammering" effect. Torqued with Torque wrench and added green 609 loctite compound - this is meant to help adhere and take up some loose fit in assemblies. - Drawback to Loctite is most have to be heated to 300 to 400 degrees to remove, or pulley will need to be cut off and ruined, I further repair/removal of pulley is necessary. This is an Easy Fix/Replacement of parts.... The hard part is filing the drum shaft surfaces to accept the new pulley, and getting the belt back on - Belt is tight but needs to be stretched on like putting a bike chain back on.

Washer now spins and sounds like a dream!
- Good Luck!
173 of 232 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Trent from Shreveport, LA
Parts Used:
WH23X10028
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers
Washing machine would cease functioning at the spin cycle and would not drain.
Remove the front coverfrom the machine. This is done by removing the 3 screws at the bottom of the panel. The panel then drops down and pulls straight off. The pump is located on the front right wall of the of the machine. You will notice a 2-3 inch diamete threaded cap on the right side of the front wall of the machine. This is the f ront of the pump and access to the filter. Place a large bucket under this cap and slowly loosen the cap. All of the water remaining in the machine will begin to drain (this could be a lot of water. Do not remove the cap completely so that you can quickly stop the flow of water if needed). Once all water is drained from the appliance, Disconnect the two hoses from the pump using a pair of pliers to looses the presure clamps, sliding the clamps back an then pulling off the hoses (be careful of any remaining water in the hoses). Then remove the two screws from the rear base of the pump that secure it to the bottom floor panel of the washer. Slide the pump slightly to the rear to free it from the fittings on the front wall of the machine and the lift the pump up. At this point, firmly pull out the wiring harness plugged into the top right side of the pump. Install the new pump by plugging in the wiring harness and resecuring the pump. Plug in the machine and run on the rinse and spin cycle to test.
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