WJSR1070A0AA General Electric Washer - Instructions

Removed 4 screwes on the top of the washer. Layed down the control panel and there was the inlets. Removed two screws and loosened the hose clamp. removed and installed new part.
It did the trick. No more problems.

a) remove front panel by depressing the 2 clips at the top in line with the lid b) remove the lid switch and 2 screws holding top on and remove top by tilting up SLIGHTLY and sliding to left. c) Remove agitator and by pulling straight up on it and remove adapter underneath d)remove 4 bolts holding 4 rubber straps to top of tub assembly, readily visible when top is removed. e) unplug motor wiring and disconnect pump and bleach hoses from tub f)while lifting up on tub, push down on each of the 4 suspension rods and disconnect them at bottom of tub ( this is the most difficult part, and to make it easier disconnect the rear rods first) g) tilt tub forward and remove tub assembly h) NOW, for the big nut that holds the spin basket in-- #1, it is LEFT HAND THREAD, so you will turn it to the right to remove it. #2, it is VERY TIGHT and requires a 1&11/16" spanner wrench (which I did not have) for removal. Instead, I used a 1&11/16 socket, an extension and an air impact wrench to remove and replace the nut. Assembly is reverse of removal and remember, that nut is ALUMINUM so be careful with that impact wrench when tightening it back up!I replaced the nut and split ring and cleaned the whole area thoroughly, and it greatly reduced the noise in spin mode. I did not replace the metal housing on the bottom of the spin basket, because it was $50 bucks. this probably would have eliminated all the noise, but my repair only cost $19 in parts, including shipping ,and the parts arrived in 1 day.

Pretty much the entire machine has to come apart to replace a transmission. The thing to know that no one mentioned is that the hub nut is reverse threaded - that means righty loosey.
Even if I had known, I tried it both ways and I doubt I could have gotten it off without the chisel as the others also had to do. Split ring was also frozen in place by hard water and soap scum so had to break that cheesey piece of aluminum off also. If you are taking apart your washer, I advise ordering these 2 parts so you will have them after you destroy the old ones trying to get to the part you need to fix.

Thanks to parts select for the exploded diagram!

Removed the front panel and lid.
Removed the ring on top of tub and holder.
Had to use a rope and pry board to get the agitator off the shaft. Removed the 7/16 cap screw and removed the plastic agitator block.
Couldn't get the hub nut off and had to use a chisel to break it off (corroded and a left hand thread).
Had to use chisel to free the hub from the center pieces so I could lift out the tub. Then I had to hammer and twist the center piece of the hub to get it off form the transmission shaft.
replace in reverse order without any problem once I realize I had a left hand hub nut.

First I disconnect the power and then I pull the front cover and replace the water pump, drain hose, and the inlet hose this was fixed and straight easy job.My second problem was the overfill problem witch I took the knobs cover and I replace the water level switch.This job was also easy but did not fix my problem.

First, remove the old water pump by disconnecting the respective hose, then wipe the area where the pump was, and proceeded to connect the new water pump, of course I did all this with the machine disconnected from the power electric, then proceeded to connect the inlet hoses of hot water and cold water, electricity connected to the machine and did a test with clothes in the washing machine. and now everything is going well, thanks for your valuable help.
sincerely, a satisfied customer

R&R Leaking/Damaged Hose and replaced it with the new one. One thing to be aware of is that after removing screws from the discharge hose upon removing the damaged one there was some water that did not expel from the unit so there was about a cup of water that came out. After removing the leaking hose you will need to remove the retaining plastic piece so that it can be placed on the replacement hose. Or if you ordered one put it on the hose so that it can retain the end of the hose in the washer. The anti-siphon clip is located about half way up the back of the washer it simply clips in place.

First I unplugged washing machine. Then I removed the four screws on top of panel above panel, this made it easier to see the clip that hold the knob onto the timer shaft.
Then I pushed clip off and removed knob. New knob came with a new clip in which all to do is push the knob onto the shaft until it clicks into place. Align panel back in bracket and put screws back in.

Remove agitator. Remove coupling. Reinstall new coupling. Reinstall agitator. My only problem was the 7 day delay in getting the part. I expected 2-day delivery.

You tube is the only way to go!

Unplug machine, verified the hot water line to the washer was clear. Used screwdriver to remove top panel from washer. Removed faulty (rusted) temperature switch from seating. Then removed each of the wires from the old switch with needlenose pliers and placed them on the proper area of the new switch. Placed the switch back on the panel and screwed the cover back on. Then plugged the unit back in an tested the hot, cold and warm settings. Easy fix.

I watched the video from the web site and the one that came with my invoice. This made it very easy to fix.I got the tools that I needed and went to town on the repair.

We pulled off the bottom cover to access the pump. The washer was on its back and that made it easier to reach. There was two hose clamps to pull off along with the two electrical parts. Very easy to replace.

It was verey easy to remove the broken part of the knob by removing the little clip that holds the know on the post. Then I just had to insert the new knob on the post and push it down til it clicked in place.

I had originally removed the back splash but that was not necessary. Everything can be done from the front panel of the washer.

This was my daughter's washing machine. I looked at the back of the machine to see if there was an opening to get to the parts. Since the back is all closed up. I knew the front had to come off. I pride up, and I pride out, and finally the front popped off. After taking the front cover off the washer. I could see the belt was all chewed up. We ordered a new belt from partselect and got it a day early. I tried to pry the belt on without loosening up anything. I couldn't get it. So I loosened the four bolts on the motor mount and slid the motor backwards towards the other pulley. I put the belt on both pulleys and pried the motor forward to tightened the belt up. Then tightened all four bolts. Put the front guard back on and tried the washer to see if we had any other problems.