WPRE8320H0WT General Electric Washer - Instructions

Ordered new pump on Sunday - replaced on Wednesday. Removed front washer panel with putty knife to release latches. Used pliers to disconnect hose clamps. Lots of paper towels to sop up water in bottom of washer and on floor. Unhooked electrical wires. Socket to remove pump. Reverse actions to replace pump. It's "plug and play"!

I paid over $100 several years ago to have this same repair done by an appliance repairman. I did it myself this time for less than $20. Definitely watch the installation video before you start. Remove agitator by pulling it up by its bottom flange (protect your face in case it pops off suddenly). Remove bolt holding agitator coupling onto the transmission shaft. Pull up on old coupling and remove it. Clean grooves on transmission shaft and then install new coupling over the shaft. Reinstall old bolt and the agitator following video instructions on lining up agitator on the coupling. Note: Standard Fedex Smartpost shipping took 6 days to go from Louisville, Kentucky to western North Carolina. If you're in a hurry it's worth it to pay for expedited shipping. Lots of dirty laundry piles up in a week!

Watched the repair video on PartSelect website , repair was exactly as they showed on video , grab old agitator at base , give a quick pull and it popped right off , lined up tabs to coupler with new agitator and gave a sharp push down and new agitator snapped right on. Total repair time was approx 5 minutes .

Pulled the agitator off by hand. Loosened the screw on top of the coupling and pulled old coupling off by hand. Replaced part with new coupling and socketed it in place. Replaced agitator by-hand by simply pushing it down on top of coupling making sure the plastic teeth aligned.

Pulled front panel of washing machine, removed hose, installed new hose, and wipped up water.Simple!!!

This was one easy job and saved me money by doing it myself, First I unplugged the washer for safety, then I removed the Agitator by grabbing the base of the agitator with both hands and pulling up I set the agitator a side and removed the one bolt holding the agitator coupling in place. the replacement coupling was a little tight when I replaced it due to it being new, (make sure the coupling is fully seated before installing the bolt) reinstalled the agitator plugged the washer back in and tested repair worked flawlessly thanks partselect

The Hub nut was very corroded and seized, and would not break loose using several types of wrenches & lubricants. The shaft is square with threads only on the corners, I used an electric drill to crack the hub nut on the straight sides of the shaft where there are no threads. All parts are GE and exact replacements, The noise is much less, but still a very small water leak. Should work for awhile , but a new washer is in the near future. Parts are good with quality service and shipment.

Replaced the parts with the highest percentage of noise cause from your website. After replacement and reassembly, with the help from your very helpful instructional youtube and my son's assistance, the repairs did not get rid of the problem. Called and was instructed that it could be the mode shifter shaft assembly. Ordered that, as well as a new belt since I would need to disassemble again. Parts came in the next day. Changed out the new parts and the problem was solved. Since I was now familiar with the repair process, this one only took 1 1/2 hours. Very pleased with the level of service and advise received from your group.

I had to insert a broom stick to keep the drive pulley from rotating as I hammered the tub nut loose.

2nd tip, my washer has the standard agitator with the glued on cap; it was unclear if I needed to remove it; you should clarify that this is not necessary, that one must only pop up the entire agitator; I used a shipping strap looped under the agitator and over a 2x4 across the top of the frame, tightening until the tub was raised a bit and then a gentle pop down on the tub and the agitator easily popped off.

Could not complete repair. The pulsator was rusted on the shaft, used wd 40, finally pried off the shaft. The hub nut was so corroded on the shaft I could not remove it. Reassembled the Machine.

I followed the video and paused it after every step. What gave me the most trouble was the tub nut which would not turn so I used a chisel and it just disintegrated along with the split ring, so that worked. Now its like a new machine. It was a fun job and I'm glad I did it instead of replacing the whole washing machine.

Followed the U-Tube video, but...don't waste your time trying to remove the spanner nut with a wrench. Just cut off with a grinder. Second, the hub was locked solid on the transmission shaft. Ended up cutting that off with a grinder also. Would have same myself a few hours of work and lots of frustration if I just cut them off from the beginning instead of trying to remove per the video. Otherwise, very doable, and not a bad job to do yourself.

The hardest part is lifting the washer to get a the bottom. Disconnect the power, shut off water. Disconnect hoses and drain hose. Move washer from the wall about 2 feet. Tilt up front of washer. I used 4 12" long 8x8 inch lumber, lift washer….place one on each from corner. Lift again, place 1 more 4x4 on each existing 4x4. Now remove the belt off the 3 pulleys. Use the flat blade screw driver to remove the C clip holding the Pully on the shaft, with the flat bladed screw driver and hammer. Once the C clip is off remove the metal washer, pulley, plastic lock (apart of the bottom of the pulley & the thrush bearing and it's washer. Using the parts supplied (the "new thrush bearing is a bearing and washer combined) replace as you removed it. Thrust bearing, pulley, washer and, c clip. I tapped mine on using the flat bladed screw drive……becareful not to break it (they did supply 2 for me in the repair packet) make sure he c clip is secured. Lower the washer after removing all the tools from under the washer, by reversing the lift sequence. Slide the washer in place. Connect the hoses back up. Plug it in.Reconnect the drain hose, you should be good to go.

Followed the instructions on repair clinic video

pulled front panel off it snaps in but had to get off. then remove two bolts holding too down. moved top around to get to straps. front to easy 5/16 deep socket aND rather .the other end has 1/4 socket back hard to get too not bad. took 30 minutes. didn't fix problem. on bottom of motor looks like it had rubber bumpers but none there didn't find any on parts list. went to parts house auto got two rubber freeze plugs installed them in hole on bottom of motor that stopped the noise and rube moves very little now. also install new belt . install it put it on motor then on part of pulley then roll pull while keeping belt on motor roll pulley around till belt on all the way then roll pull more pushing on belt on motor till belt fit in all groves then roll it couple more times it will line groves up on pull. install top back down then snap front panel it your done.