HVXR1040T5WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

replaced them & working fine now....

First I removed the two clamps that hold the inlet drain hose onto the pump. **There may still be water in the hose** This was pretty easy, but a set of vice grips would have been nice. The space is not too cramped, but required a little bit of wiggling. Putting it on was a little bit harder, just because I did not want to tear the hose on the tub or pump inlet. Make sure both are fully seated or else it could still leak. The drain hose and the clip are pretty self explanatory. I tried to buy a generic drain hose at a big box lumber yard, but I could never make it fit right.

Hope this helps.

I removed the agitator by simply pulling up. I then removed one bolt to get the agitator coupler off. I installed the new coupler, replaced the bolt and slid the agitator back down.

replaced clutch assembly. unplug power; turn off water, disconnect hoses from faucet; remove drain hose from drain; shop vac water from basin through drain hose. bungee hoses and cords, relocate to garage, place blocks, lay unit on blocks on back, remove front cover, mark electrical connections, disconnect- move aside, support motor, i used a ratchet strap behind motor around the tub supports, removed nuts from motor mount bolts, release strap, tilt and remove motor, place on plywood, use opposing small pry bars to remove clutch assembly; remove rust from motor shaft, install new clutch, re-install motor, install belt, tighten ratchet strap, to tighen belt, re install mount bolt nuts, reconnect electrical connections, remove strap, clean gunk from washer case floor, double check connections, mount bolts, belt tightness, re-install front cover, re-position washer, reconnect hoses, and power cord, turn on water, open fron cover, check for leaks; run rinse spin cycle to test - confirm no leaks, ops check complete, good to go. total time, including removing repositioon and removing water, about an hour, clutch replacement time about 15 min's.

Viewed video on installation of new belt. A little awkward to get to the rear bolts, but used a wrench with success. Now washer spins correctly. Thank you.

Turned off the water and disconnected the water lines. Took of the control panal, only 4 screws and got access to the dual inlet water valve. Device removes with 2 screws and power connectors slide off. Reverse removal and your in business. So easy to do, part was an exact fit. Don't buy a new washer, fix your old one!

Ordered new pump on Sunday - replaced on Wednesday. Removed front washer panel with putty knife to release latches. Used pliers to disconnect hose clamps. Lots of paper towels to sop up water in bottom of washer and on floor. Unhooked electrical wires. Socket to remove pump. Reverse actions to replace pump. It's "plug and play"!

I pulled up on the agitator with a quick upward jerk to remove the agitator, then I used a 7/16 socket to take the bolt out of the coupling, pulled up on the coupling and removed it. Took the new coupling sit it on top of the shaft, I turned the coupling slowly to line the grooves of the shaft to the grooves on the coupling, then I pushed the coupling down onto the shaft, put new bolt in the coupling and tightened it down, then I lined the agitator grooves up with the grooves on the coupling then pushed agitator down until it snapped in place on the coupling.

Pulled front panel of washing machine, removed hose, installed new hose, and wipped up water.Simple!!!

Remove top of washer, 2 screws,support washer tub use wood block,s to support washer tub, remove old support rod replace with new, that's it, replace top, done. Thank You

The picture of how to depress the clips to remove the front was incorrect. The clips are 4" from the sides not immediately at the sides per the picture. The 4 rubber springs were only part of what was needed for the washer. The old gas dryer was still working. There are two more springs on the bottom of the tub missing not shown on diagrams, so it still sways side to side, bangs around and makes a lot of noise. After putting on the 4 rubber springs, it ran, but probably needed a new clutch also, because it wouldn't spin dry anymore. I ended up spending $2000 for new washer and dryer from Maytag, and throwing out these old machines today.

I had to take out the front panel to access the Tub. Afterward the work wasn't hard.

1) Researched internet for parts to make repair
2) Tested the cold side to make sure the only problem was the valve.
3) Ordered part from PartSelect
4) Made repairs after going to hardware store to purchase a set of torx bits to loosen the front panel so I can replace the dual valve assembly.

Only tools needed #1 Phillips and #15 Torx

Wife put on the new part and she used a pair of plires and it was a little difficult to get her hand in the tiny spot but she put it on in less than 15 minuets and it is working great.

Pull hose out from wall and drain water into bucket. Remove two screws from back of washer holding on the clip. Pull hose out from washer its in there about 3 inches or so . If you order a new clip will make this even easier it's only $3.87 and I didn't realize I needed it. So, I just cut the old hose with a small saw near the clip so I could remove it and reuse it. Just slide the clip onto the end of the new hose - it fits into one of the grooves-I just made a note of where that was before removing from old hose. Then replace the two screws on the clip going to the back of washer. Put other end of hose into pipe in wall.