MBXR1060T4AB General Electric Washer - Instructions

removed washer front panel, top panel to access the water fill spout and hose. Disconnected and replaced.
personnel at part select were very knowledgable about detailed part and the overnight service was right on time.
I would recommend part select for your next appliance parts needs.

Open back cover and found that drain pump had a bad seal. Took it apart and bought new seal some what same size. Put everything togather and start washing clothers and wife complained that it became wost the before. When on line and found pump and price was just right to take a risk. Ordered on sunday and got ups tuesday.
Replaced pump on Sunday and leak was gone and wife was happy.

------Got chicken and beer that Sunday--------------

Should be noted that the basket must be rotated on installation to find the best balance point!

ORDER Spanner wrench for GE tub nut. Impossible to remove hub nut on a washer with age without it. Purchase 1 11/16 in spanner wrench, tub seal, hub nut , split nut
and washer under
agitator all at one time or you will struggle with this repair. The few cents you save is not worth it, the video they provide does a good job but theirs washer
is new hope this helps

Took front of washer off,found that all of the straps were broke ,removed two small bolts from each strap pulled plastic support from from broken strap and put it in new strap,put plastic supported end of strap in first put bolt in and mounted other end to drum,easy job just about any one with common since could do it.Got to go laundry to wash :-)

turned washer on side to get at the bolts holding motor. loosen bolts. remove flexable basket for water pump or one end of it. slide motor to loosen belt. remove and replace belt. use large screwdriver on motor to hold tension on belt while tightening nuts. hardest part was getting clamps back on the rubber basket.

the repair was really easy. All I did take down the control panel, disconnect the wires, pop out the switch, and blow through the air hose. I didn't realize what a simple machine it was.

I noticed the belt was off, first, then pulled it back on. Washer worked, but very noisily, as belt continued slippage. I bought new belt after reading how to repair, then when it arrived, I read how someone installed it without having to remove bolt, etc. I tried and succeeded. It agitates just fine, but stalls when spinning. It's like the belt is too tight, now. i am gonna try rotating the rotating parts to see if that will help loosen it.

Removed knobs, removed cold and hot inlet hoses,removed top cover, removed output hose, wire plugs, and three screws and replaced the valve.

It was real easy......
1. removed the 4 phillips head screws from the top of the control panel. The control panel is hinged and pulls forward towards you
2. Holding the Control Panel Chassis at an angle look between the knob and the backing ring for a clear c clip. (Note: you are looking for the open end not the closed end of the clip) Take a small flat blade screwdriver, place it between the timer knob and backing and press down until the clip slides off the spindle.
3. Remove the knob.
4. Before removing the wiring on the timer assy unplug the power cord from the wall socket.
5. Locate the green grounding wire on the timer assy and remove it with pliers.
6. Remove the main control connector by squeezing the tabs.
7. There was only 1 hexhead screw holding my assy to the chassis, remove and carefully pull up the left side of the assy just enough for the timer spindle to exit the chassis.

At this point its just the reverse order to connect the new assy.

Took about 10 Minutes to have my washer up and running again. So easy, and I almost bought a new washer! Fixed it before my husband got home from work. Thank you PartSelect!

The hardest part of this repair was actually getting the panel off to get at the timer itself. You need a special type of screwdriver with a torc head, (not sure about spelling) ( looks like a phillips head but has an extra "prong") . After that it was as easy as unplugging the old one and plugging in the new one. piece of cake.

First and foremost, the job would have taken 2 hrs instead of 8 hrs. The problem was that no one on the help instructions said that the Hub Nut had a LEFT HAND thread and suggested to just break the nut off. Well, after chiseling off most of the nut I drilled small holes through the nut and removed the nut pieces. However; I learned that I had damaged the transmission seal and had to buy a new transmission $183. Had I known this the job would have taken much less time and at a cost of about $50.
PS: The washer runs great.

I notice a strange noise when ever the tub would shut down from a spin cycle. When I would load clothes it seemed that the basket had to much lateral movement. I looked between the top of the frame & basket & found 2 of the dampening straps had broken. Ordered 4 of them to replace all the straps.

Replacement was easy. I popped the front cover of the machine off. Remove 2 screws which held the top down which gave easy access to the straps. The straps are held in place by 2 screws so it was a simple process of removing the screws, removing the straps from their anchors & reinstalling the screws with the new straps. Job done. Reinstall the top & front of the machine & put the wife back to work.

Originally my water level sensor was broken. When I was repairing that, I noticed that the dampening straps were broken. Replacing them was easy. The hardest part was remembering how to open the top. I just searched the internet until I found the answer. I can't remember it all right now, but the key was to slide a putty knife in between the top and the front to pop open the body.