GJSR4170D5WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

I think finding the tools to do the repair took longer than the actual repair!

After unplugging the machine, turning off the water and disconnecting the hoses~ All I had to do was remove the top front panel~ I think that was 3 screws; remove the old part~ 2 screws, disconnecting a hose, and unplugging the 2 connections; put in the new part~ reconnecting the hose, 2 screws, plugging in the two connections; put the front panel back on~ 3 screws; reconnect the hoses, turn the water back on, plug the machine back in then tested it and it worked perfectly!

When the kids got home from school and I told them I fixed it they high fived me and said, "Way to go Mom!"

Removed the front cover of the washer by sliding a screw driver to release the clips. Loosened the 4 nuts that held the drivebelt motor pushed the motor back to release the drive belt. Replaced the drive belt, pulled motor until drive belt was snug and tighted the 4 bolts. At the same time, I replaced the 4 tub dampening straps located at the top of the tub and now the unit is just like new.

Took 4 screws off of face plate, exposed valve, unplugged power supply, removed wire harnesses to hot cold valves, removed hot and cold water hoses from back of washing machine, removed two screws holding valve body to washer,put new valve in and reversed procedure. ta da!!!!!!!!!!

removed hoses and clamps. removed 2 bolts on pump. put it back together. done 15 min.

followed the instruction on the wiring sheet and removal and repair sheet that comes with the wahing machine. They wee very good directions and the only problem that I had wa getting the 1 and 11/16 inch not off the shaft that holds the tub to the transmission, The main problem was that the transmission had leaked all over the break and the tub would spin while hitting the pipe wrench with a claw hammer. Ended up using a 10 lb sledge hammer to hit the pipe wrench and that finally loosened up the nut, but that was the only real problem i had. I say this was easy except for getting off that nut

I attached the Drain Hose Clip to the Drain Hose Extension and then pushed the drain hose all the way into the drain hole in the back of the machine. I then screwed the clip to the machine. Done. Very painless. Fast delivery... ordered it on Monday, arrived on Tuesday.

Actually putting on a knob is self-explanatory. But wanted to say your company had the best price and reaction (delivery time). Great job by PartSelect!

Thanks to comments already summited to Partselect I was prepareed for the worst. Once I figured out that you remove the agitator assembly with a swift jerk I was able to access the lower portion of the tub. As others have found out the aluminum nut holding the inner tub can not be removed without a hammer and chisel. Once you get past that things go well. What is left is cleaning the components and re-assembling.

I used the other 4 posting as a guideline but found that what wasn't mentioned here was that the disassembly/re-assembly instructions are actually located inside the washing machine behind the control panel (wish I knew that before I started doing it on my own).

After removing the control knobs (temperature, cycle, etc.), unscrew the four screws and lift the control panel off. Underneath the panel, there was a folded up wiring diagram that includes assembly instructions on the back.

Like others here, everything went smooth until I tried to get the Hub Nut (PS271505) off. No matter how hard I tried turning or hitting it (or the wrenches), it wouldn't move at all. I followed the other people's advise here and ended up taking a hammer and small chisel to the side of the nut. It's an aluminum nut so it cracked pretty easily and was easy to remove after that. Take my advise and just break the nut off if you are having any sort of difficulties getting it to turn. It's worth the extra $11 to just buy a new one!

Removed front cover, lifted lid. Unnapped the broken tub cover pulling the tub forward to allow the old cover to clear the rear of the housing/top. Installed the new tub cover by once again doing the same thing and carefully snapping it into place. Reconnected the rubber sping offloads, lowered the top and reinstalled the front cover..ready to run.

Part Select inclusion of parts diagram helped determine which part was broken, and how to disassemble just what was necessary. I was planning to open up the control panel to get inside, which was not necessary. Assembly was simple for the same reason. Sometimes, it does help to read the "manual" first....

The video with Steve is invaluable. I followed the video to replace the tub bearing. Had to jump over to the tub seal video to make sure I got it seated into the outer tub correctly. The tub bearing video skips past the seal part. Be aware that the video cut aways can be a considerable amount of time. Highly recommend a few things: 1) if you think you need to replace one of the things on my parts list (bearing, washer, seal, etc) then just replace everything at once. It's not worth it to try to reuse old nasty parts. All of the parts + 1 11/16 spanner wrench came to around 60 bucks. 2) get the washer out of its confined area and give yourself some room to work on it. I took the time to shuffle it out into my garage and setup a table to spread out the parts and tools. This procedure is a complete washer dismantle job. So take your time and be patient. 3) the aluminum hub nut is a bugger. I had to use penetrating oil and make a couple of small angled cuts with a hacksaw to relieve the tension between the nut and transmission shaft. 4) the main lower tub bearing (bushing) was also a bugger and all gummed up and rusty. Be very careful getting it out. You don't want to ruin the integrity of the outer tub cavity that it goes into. Light taps and patience using the butt end of a hammer and flat blade screwdrivers. From beginning to end, with a few breaks to let the penetrating oil do its thing, it took about four hours. I took my time, reviewed the videos throughout that time, and I've never worked on a washing machine before.

I loosened the four nuts holding the motor in place, slid the motor toward the tub to slacken the belt enoug to remove it, then replaced old belt with new belt, pulled motor back in place until belt was tight, then tightened the four nuts holding th emotor in place.

- Troubleshot fill valve first. OK
- Followed leads to temperature selector switch.
- Checked resistance and live voltage at switch.
- Determined switch had failed on "hot" side.

1. SECURED POWER
2. Removed four torx screws on top of dashboard.
3. Removed six sheet metal screws from dashboard back.
4. Removed 4 leads from bad switch (one at a time).
5. Placed leads on new switch (one at a time).
6. Removed existing switch.
7. Installed new wired switch.
8. Re-installed dashboard back and top screws.
9. Op-test sat.

Used the repair instruction paper behind the washer control panel and used the online parts diagram. Also the online responces from other customer repairs gave me the idea to take a small pipe wrench (with a sock over the bottom of handle) and tap it with a 10 lb sledge hammer to remove the alumium hub nut. *** It is a backwards threaded nut **** I did not know I was going the wrong way until I looked at the new nut and noticed it's reverse threaded!!! After that it was just taking everything apart and putting it back the way you found it.