GUAP240EM1WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

Originally I thought that the Start switch was the issue, and ordered one. After taking the machine apart and running some tests, the issue was clearly not this switch, but a different switch that cuts power when the belt tension is no longer being applied to the idler pulley spring. I fixed this by bypassing this switch, which in my opinion, is error prone and serves no purpose. The switch can be accessed by removing the control panel, then top cover, then front cover, then drum. The bogus switch is screwed to the bottom left, near the motor. The idler pulley spring rests against it. Just disconnect the switch wires, then clip, strip and crimp then together to bypass the switch, and voila! Now if the belt breaks or comes off the pulley, the motor will continue to run, but you wont hear the wet clothes flopping around, so that will be the indication that you have a belt problem. Hope that helps!

Received the dryer knob, aligned the part and it went on with no tools, no labor.

I removed the old slide and clipped in the new one. No tools involved.

If your dryer is making a grinding or loud plastic rubbing noise, you likely need to replace the slides. Here is how I did it.

TIP: Before beginning, set out a hand towel on the washing machine to set the screws onto, in the order and position you removed them.

IMPORTANT: Before beginning, turn off the gas to the unit and unplug it! This repair is all done from the front side of the machine, so you should only need to slide it out enough to unplug it.

Step 1: Remove the control panel

To do this, you need to pull out on the round silver control knob to remove it. This will expose a long screw. With the long screw removed, grab the panel with both hands and slide it straight up. Be careful, the control board is still connected with a 40-pin ribbon cable. Set the control board on top of the dryer temporarily.

Step 2: Remove the lid

There are three screws to remove the lid. Remove them and set them on the screw holding towel. The lid is attached at the back, so to remove it you need to slide it forward towards the front of the unit. Once the lid is loose, you can have a helper hold the control panel while you set the lid aside, or gently let the control panel dangle.

Step 3: Disconnect the control panel and wiring harnesses

Gently pull on the 40-pin ribbon connector until the control panel ribbon cable is removed. There is a notch to designate which direction the ribbon cable it goes back in. Set the control panel to the side. At the same time, you can disconnect the two wiring harnesses that feed the door light and sensor. These wiring harnesses are secured to a silver plate with a zip tie. Cut the zip tie with your diagonal cutters. (You can trim the old zip tie and replace it by feeding the extra small zip tie through the original opening later.)

Step 4: Remove the steel plate that the wiring harnesses were attached to

There are 6 screws to remove the steel plate. Pay attention to where the extra large head screws go, because these are what the control panel slides onto, when you put things back together. Pull out on each side to release the bottom clips, then slide it upwards. Set this piece aside.

Step 4: Remove the front panel (the door panel)

There are 4 screws to loosen the door panel. Two silver screws at the top, and 2 white screws at the bottom. Loosen the white screws about half way. These do not need to be completely removed because the door can rest on them. Remove the top silver screws. Gently lift the dryer drum off the front bezel while you tilt the front panel towards you. At this point you should be able to see the white and dark green slides. I found it easier to lift the front door off the white screws and set it up against the wall.

Step 5: Replace the slides

The slides have plastic hooks that go through the round holes on one end to hold them in place. You should be able to remove the slides with your fingers (maybe with a little help from a flat-head screwdriver), and replace them. There are dozens of YouTube videos on how to do this if you need help. Be careful not to break the plastic hooks that hold the slide to the front plastic bezel. Replace white slides with the white, and the dark green slides with dark green.

Step 6: Putting it all back together

Do everything in reverse. Set the front panel in the white screws, lift the drum, and slide the door panel back to rest on the slides while you put back the silver screws. Give the drum a few good spins manually to make sure there isn't anything still rubbing. Keep in mind the sliding noise is slightly louder than normal until all the panels are replaced.

It will help the process to only tighten the screws half way while putting them all back in. Once everything aligns, then you can tighten them down. DO NOT over tighten, use hand tightness only or you will strip them out. With the front door panel back on, you can put the steel panel back in place. Once you have the 6 screws done, remember to slide a small zip tie through the previous hole to secure the wiring harnesses. Connect the harnesses, and the front panel ribbon cable before putting the lid back on. Insert the screws to the lid, then slide the control panel back down, and replace the single long screw. Note that the control knob is notched, so align the flat sides as you put it back in.

Plug it back in, and turn back on the gas, you are done!

Pulled off the old one
Matched up the flat side
Popped on the new one
Dry clothes! Hurray!!

Easy as 1 2 3.
1 Ordered Part Received in 3 days Great Service
2 Used Scissors to open the package (not tough to do)
3 Used 1 hand to put the knob on Works Great !!!
Start to Finish 3 min. 16 seconds !!!!

easy to fix took less than 10 minutes

Pulled old knob off. Aligned new knob. Pushed on. Took less than 1 minute, no tools required.
Expensive for a knob.
But it fixed the problem better than switching another knob from the machine.

Pulled the knob out of the package,went downstairs to basement, put the knob on the dryer, walked away with a fixed product. Took 5 minutes.

To get to the slides, needed to take off the front panel, the top and then can loosen the front of the dryer. Pull it out enough to get to the slides and replace them.

Snapped filter cover in place. Very intuitive. Really didn’t need instructions. Took less than 2 minutes to fix.

My husband and I are the least repair-oriented people in the world. We can, however, follow instructions.

We were seriously trying to decide whether to call a repairperson or buy a new dryer, since dryer is over 5 years old, and it does not seem that appliances last any more. (New dryer: probably over $700)

Read about issue on PartSelect. Found clear and easy to follow explanations. Thought we needed a new timer, and considered buying one. Installation instructions seemed clear and simple enough for even us to do. Pulled off old timer knob to discover the back was cracked, which was why it was spinning.

Bought control knob. Pushed it on. Perfect!
Total time for repair: about 10 seconds
Total cost (including shipping) about $33

Wife was out of town, visiting family. I broke the door strike by wedging the dryer door between the laundry room door, closed the laundry room door and it snapped the door strike breaking it. I ordered the part, and it shipped fast using the standard shipping, nothing fancy. Grabbed a pair of pliers and pushed the new door strike into place. It snapped right in, fits and works perfect like nothing ever happened. The wife will never know :)

Open the door and removed the part. Installed the new part and started the dryer.

Ensure washer drum is empty of water before attempting repair. Disconnect the power to the appliance. Remove the front washer panel (a metal putty knife if needed to unlock the two upper tabs which releases the panel). Locate the existing drain pump at the bottom of the unit. Disconnect the two wires from the drain pump motor (one orange, one black/white). A pair of pliers and a gentle pull should do it. Using a small ratchet and socket, loosen and remove the two bolts that secure the drain pump to the bottom panel of the washer. Using a pair of pliers, squeeze the factory hose clamp on the large drain tube that connects the pump to the drum and remove the hose from the pump, being careful to capture any residual water from the drum. A towel is helpful to absorb the water. Repeat for the smaller discharge drain tube located on the side of the pump. Once both tubes are disconnected, remove the old pump. Install the new pump and reconnect everything in reverse order. Connect the small drain tube to the side of the pump. Connect the large drain tube from the drum. Ensure the clamps are properly secured. Insert and hand-tighten the two bolts that secure the pump to the bottom panel of the washer, making sure the bolts are snug but being careful not to overtighten. Reconnect the two wires to the motor. Restore power to the appliance. Run a quick wash cycle to ensure pump is working correctly and check for any water leaks. When satisfied, reinstall and secure the front washer panel.