53040118 General Electric Washer - Instructions

I pulled the old knob off and put the new knob on.

Turn off cold & hot water inlets. Detached water and drain hoses from Washer. Unplugged electricity.Removed back panel using nut driver/wrench would also work. Detached plate holding old valve and then old valve from plate. Held old valve in one hand, detached each electrical connection from old valve and attched to same location on new valve. Reinstalled and reconnected everything. Work like a charm. $20 bucks instead of a new washer. Point of fact: the valve contains the selinoids that regulate water flow. I did not know this and was trying to find "Selinoid" instead of inlet valve.

1. Lifted Agitator out. 2. Heated Sleeve until loose. 3. Pushed old Rubber out of Agitator. 4. Cleaned Splines on Agitatorshaft and inside of Agitator. 5. Used Lithium Grease to lubricate inside of Agitator. 6. Used Hudraulic Ram to press New Coupling in place. 7. Placed Agitator on Agitarorshaft. 8. Closed Machine and ran a cycle to make certain particles from repair were cleaned away.

Removed existing knob by using pliers to release clip from shaft. Inserted new knob (with clip attached) onto shaft and aligned with shaft groove to engage clip. Easy breezy.

Since the valve sprayed water out in one particular spot, it was easy to determine what part I needed. After I received the part from "Part Select" it was super easy to replace and took about 10 min. and the washer was good as new.

We bought this used Hotpoint that was probably one of the original machine created back in the stone-age, it's so old. We've had it 10 months, and it's always had this... burnt rubber stink to it... then one day, it stopped agitating and sounded like a metal bucket of bolts being shaken. We're on a military income with five kids, and the idea of buying a new washer was just... heartbreaking. On a whim, having fixed a washer once before, we opened the front up and painstakingly pulled every last rubber fiber from what used to be the belt. Ordered the part. It shipped quick, arrived quick, and in under a week we were back in business. Someone else had mentioned the needing 1/4" socket, and I was glad I remembered that, because it made is SO much easier.

Unplugged washing machine from electrical outlet. Turned off water supply to washing machine. Removed inlet hoses. Removed 2 screws to get panel off that water valve attaches to. Removed the panel for access to water valve. Removed fill hose from water valve and then unbolted valve from panel. Made diagram of electrical wiring to ensure correct placement on new valve. Attached new water valve, electrical wires and fill hose to valve. Installed panel in machine and hooked up inlet hoses. Turned on water supply and inspected for leaks. Turned on washing machine to verify filling and repair was OK.

Gently turned washer over onto its front. Removed bottom metal panel (3 or 4 screws on each side). Removed old belt. Installed new belt. NOTE: The new belt is a tight and perfect fit, therefore it will not want fit on to both pulleys/ rotating discs. I have found the best method is to start the belt on the disc that drives the belt. Then place as much of the belt over the disc that sits below the washing machine drum as is possible(the spinning part)and then turn the belt by hand and the belt should pop on to the disc. If the belt goes on easily you may have the wrong belt as the belt must be tight to achieve the traction necessary for the washing machine to spin. HOPE THIS HELPS!! A screwdriver may be handy in helping to pry on the belt. Good look.

its great and saved me lots of money enjoy my washer again

quck delivery thanks. removed back panel and valve assembly. replace unit,and replaced panel. yep it works

Once I figured out what was wrong (splined, hard rubber part of the agitator coupler had parted from the inner, metal part)the job was easy. But I couldn't really tell what was going on until I saw the new coupler ($31.25)which I didn't even have to use. What I did was rough the outside of the metal core with a coarse file, score the inside of the outer, hard rubber part with a screw driver, clean both surfaces thuroughly and reassemble with JB weld. Let sit for 24 hours, and voila. If I had to do it again I could do it in half an hour (not counting glue set-up time).

turned washer upside down- had to remove one frame cross member to get to the seal. replaced seal- replaced frame cross member. stopped the oil leak, but had a small rusted hole in the bottom tub. sanded that clean, inserted a rubber snap-in plug that fit the hole, covered with that monkey glue. let that dry for a while then covered that with BJ weld, let that cure 3 days. washer workes fine now no leaks at all

Lay the washer on its side, unscrew three screw to loose the rotor, put the belt and screw the rotor back.