58221T8WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

Basically, I just followed the instructions in the video that is posted on this sight. It went off without a hitch. Removed the screws from the control panel, lifted it up and out of the way. Then I used the putty knife to release the clips that hold the front panel in place and then removed the top of the washer. Pretty easy from there to swap out the dampening straps and reassemble the washer. Saved a lot of money doing it myself.

Drain tub. remove 2 hose clamps and hoses. R&R 2 screws that hold pump.

It was almost a complete tear down. Most difficult part was discivering how to remove the front panel. Slip a putty knife between the top and front covers. push and depress the spring tab on each side. The left hand nut on the hub was difficult. I had to get a neighbor to hold a large pair of pliers while I put a pipe wrench on the nut and hit it with a 2 lb. hammer in order to break it loose. Puting it back together do not forget to reconnect the level sensing hose to the level selector, I did. Machine will not perform without it. You can do it! I did.

It was very easy, just one screw to get the belt on, then it was just putting in place and putting it back together took the longest.

I too the front knob off the timer, took the screws out of the top of the panel, unpluged the timer and plugged the new timer in, removed the old timer one screw and pulled the old one out, reversing the process to get the new timer mounted, replaced the panel, replaced the timer knob and finished the job in about ten min.
It is not rocket science, well I confess, I once worked on rockets and their components, so it was real easy for me.

The cap just removed by tapping a few times with a screw driver and hammer. then pulling upward it came off and I placed the new dispenser on. a couple minutes saved me from running up and down to add softener and it was very inexpensive.Thanks alot PARTS SELECT.

First off, the repair part arrived in only two days. The schematic was very detailed and accurate on your web site. Once the part arrived and removed from the bag, it was a snap to install with just a needle nosed pliers. Total time was less than 5 minutes. This was the first time I had used PartSelect and you can bet I'll be back. Thanks again. Gary K. in IN.

Removed the front panel with a stiff putty knife, removed the worn belt. Placed the new belt on the front pully and than the rear pully, turning clockwise. After checking the spin cycle I put the front panel back on and I was done.

We pulled up diagrams online and read a lot about the repairs. Four screws on top took off the electrical panel. Two clips hidden under the front of the top panel released the front panel. We followed the clear tube up to the water level pressure switch. We disconnected the previous switch, and connected the new one, one wire at a time. We tested and found that the water now stopped filling. Put the washer back together - done! Cost - $30 and 1/2 a hour total vs. calling a repair person.

Remove four screws which held the front cover of the washer. Dropped the cover down to expose the temp. switch. Turned the switch 1/8 turn counterclockwise which removed the switch from the cover. Pulled of the four pigtail wire leads and then installed the new switch in reverse order. Very easy!!

I pulled agitator off revealing rotted hub. Had to remove inner basin from machine. This required pulling off top and tying up to be out off way . I had to get the control panel out of way. Removed back screws and moved it up as though hinged. I had to remove the water fill piece, as this was impeding removal of basin. I had to remove top ring off of inner drum. Needed a second person to hold control panel away as I removed drum. Once drum was out, it was an easy task to replace the rotted hub. I then needed to get the portion that was rotted and still on drive out. Could not wrench the hub nut out due to lack of leverage. Split nut with a chisel. Once old nut out, I cleaned up threads, put inner basin back in, again utilizing assistance in holding control panel out of way. Reinstalled in order. Before I had gone too far, I found that a six pronged jumper had fallen off of the controls. Found where it had been and re-installed. Put remainder back in reverse order. Machine back on line, and working properly.

Should be noted that the basket must be rotated on installation to find the best balance point!

Just used hands to pry open the old agitator from the washer. If one angle does not work try another and go in a clockwise direction. The new agitator had a new coupling at the bottom, so I needed something to push it out from the top, found a long metal rod and easily pushed it down and out. Verified that new coupling was exactly the same as the old one. The old one was good so I just pushed the new agitator down on the old coupling and it worked fine.

turned off the water and removed the hoses. Then removed the screws that held the back plate (that contains the knobs). removed the two screws holding the water valves and the hose to the washer. replaced the valve and then reassembled the rest.

I removed four hex screws from the top of the washer. I found the water level pressure switch and removed the dial. I turned it to remove it from the holding bracket. I removed both wires one at a time and placed them in the new switch one at a time so I wouldn't get them mixed up. I put the new switch in place and put the top back on using the hex screws. The dial was replaced. When I tested the dial I found that the dial did not match up to the water settings. They didn't even come close. Although the numbers were close on the switches, they were different. I had to remove the new switch and put the old one back on until I can locate the correct switch for my washer.