52178128 General Electric Washer - Instructions

Trouble shooting on internet only mentioned worn drive belt as a cause for no spin. No mention of the possibility of a transmission problem burning out the centrifugal clutch. So the drive belt was ordered and when I checked tracking when it was late, I was informed that it was already delivered and signed for by some stranger, jmorris. Later that night I found the package at my door to late to do the repair that night. The next evening the repair was attempted and it was not difficult with the youtube video for guidance. Back together but it did not spin or agitate. On the third run dthrough the procedure I noticed that the clutch was really hot and the notor was not locked. But the big pully would not complete but bart of a revolution and hard stop. The repair was a failure and after the time spent diagnosing the wrong problem with inadiquate trouble shooting on the internet chart and the time ordering and waiting for the second chance delivery. The failed repair delayed to the point that the customer did not have time to do their laundry berore their weekend trip. They will have to get a new machine after waisting so mych time with a less than fully informed repair attempt. The internet trouble shooting help was inadequate. The delivery of the parts was botched using FedEx instead of UPS. At the last minute after hours of involvement it came to light that the machine was history and we were suckered into buying the wrong part and running out of time for the customer to ready their clothes for their trip. I felt so bad of the machine resisting the repair process thaqt I discounted my labor time and told the customer pay me what they felt would be ritght. It was not all part selectt's fault but they had their page in the story.

Took off the backing and then the water inlet piece and just reverse the procedure when installing the new part. What really amazed me was the ease of ordering the part through this website. I found it, ordered it and in two days it was here!! Great website, you folks really know what your doing. My repair was under 25 dollars, how much would have I paid for a service tech to come out, don't even want to think about it !! I'm telling everyone I know about your website. THANKS AGAIN !!!!!

Very straight forward install. First removed the agitator itself by pulling straight up on it. Then removed the agitator coupling without the need of any tools just pull it straight off. Install new coupler and agitator.

1. Lifted Agitator out. 2. Heated Sleeve until loose. 3. Pushed old Rubber out of Agitator. 4. Cleaned Splines on Agitatorshaft and inside of Agitator. 5. Used Lithium Grease to lubricate inside of Agitator. 6. Used Hudraulic Ram to press New Coupling in place. 7. Placed Agitator on Agitarorshaft. 8. Closed Machine and ran a cycle to make certain particles from repair were cleaned away.

Using the 1" putty, push in on the 2 clips holding the top of the washer. Lift top, exposing the top of tub. Remove old rubber seal from top edge of tub. To ease installation of new seal, stretch it over the edge of tub which tensions it, then start tucking the outer lip along the outside edge, tilting the seal towards the outside edge until the seal is completely in its groove all around. I had to hold down on the seal to keep it from rolling off while I lowered the top back down. When the lid is down, push hard to engage the 2 clips that lock it down.

In my case, the splined shaft (steel) had worn off all splines in the aluminum coupling. So the spin cycle would eventually get enough friction to spin the clothes, but the friction required to agitate the clothes back and forth was too much. Since the splines were worn off, the whole agitator lifted right out with no tools. There is a cap on the top that needs to be kept in good condition, so be careful popping it off. After removing the cap, I cut a hole using a utility knife, then punching a flat head screw driver around the edge. Careful not to damage the edge that the cap seats to. I then matched a socket the size of the top of the coupling and hammered the coupling through the bottom. I used the flat blade also to clear the aluminum out of the splines on the shaft. The fit of the new coupling into the agitator is tight. I put the coupling in the freezer, and the top of agitator in hot water to help resize things for installation. I also used dish soap on the coupling straight out of the freezer. A small amount of grease should be used on the shaft to make it easier and prevent galvanic corrosion. It still took all my weight to install. Don't use a hammer, as you don't want to damage the area the cap goes on. Pop the cap on and wash.

Lay the washer on its side, unscrew three screw to loose the rotor, put the belt and screw the rotor back.

turned washer upside down- had to remove one frame cross member to get to the seal. replaced seal- replaced frame cross member. stopped the oil leak, but had a small rusted hole in the bottom tub. sanded that clean, inserted a rubber snap-in plug that fit the hole, covered with that monkey glue. let that dry for a while then covered that with BJ weld, let that cure 3 days. washer workes fine now no leaks at all

Replaced the water inlet valve. Your shipping was next day the best I have ever received. Thank You

Turn off cold & hot water inlets. Detached water and drain hoses from Washer. Unplugged electricity.Removed back panel using nut driver/wrench would also work. Detached plate holding old valve and then old valve from plate. Held old valve in one hand, detached each electrical connection from old valve and attched to same location on new valve. Reinstalled and reconnected everything. Work like a charm. $20 bucks instead of a new washer. Point of fact: the valve contains the selinoids that regulate water flow. I did not know this and was trying to find "Selinoid" instead of inlet valve.

its great and saved me lots of money enjoy my washer again

Since the valve sprayed water out in one particular spot, it was easy to determine what part I needed. After I received the part from "Part Select" it was super easy to replace and took about 10 min. and the washer was good as new.

We bought this used Hotpoint that was probably one of the original machine created back in the stone-age, it's so old. We've had it 10 months, and it's always had this... burnt rubber stink to it... then one day, it stopped agitating and sounded like a metal bucket of bolts being shaken. We're on a military income with five kids, and the idea of buying a new washer was just... heartbreaking. On a whim, having fixed a washer once before, we opened the front up and painstakingly pulled every last rubber fiber from what used to be the belt. Ordered the part. It shipped quick, arrived quick, and in under a week we were back in business. Someone else had mentioned the needing 1/4" socket, and I was glad I remembered that, because it made is SO much easier.

Unplugged washing machine from electrical outlet. Turned off water supply to washing machine. Removed inlet hoses. Removed 2 screws to get panel off that water valve attaches to. Removed the panel for access to water valve. Removed fill hose from water valve and then unbolted valve from panel. Made diagram of electrical wiring to ensure correct placement on new valve. Attached new water valve, electrical wires and fill hose to valve. Installed panel in machine and hooked up inlet hoses. Turned on water supply and inspected for leaks. Turned on washing machine to verify filling and repair was OK.

Gently turned washer over onto its front. Removed bottom metal panel (3 or 4 screws on each side). Removed old belt. Installed new belt. NOTE: The new belt is a tight and perfect fit, therefore it will not want fit on to both pulleys/ rotating discs. I have found the best method is to start the belt on the disc that drives the belt. Then place as much of the belt over the disc that sits below the washing machine drum as is possible(the spinning part)and then turn the belt by hand and the belt should pop on to the disc. If the belt goes on easily you may have the wrong belt as the belt must be tight to achieve the traction necessary for the washing machine to spin. HOPE THIS HELPS!! A screwdriver may be handy in helping to pry on the belt. Good look.