58251TBWW General Electric Washer - Instructions

turned washer on side to get at the bolts holding motor. loosen bolts. remove flexable basket for water pump or one end of it. slide motor to loosen belt. remove and replace belt. use large screwdriver on motor to hold tension on belt while tightening nuts. hardest part was getting clamps back on the rubber basket.

the repair was really easy. All I did take down the control panel, disconnect the wires, pop out the switch, and blow through the air hose. I didn't realize what a simple machine it was.

Removed knobs, removed cold and hot inlet hoses,removed top cover, removed output hose, wire plugs, and three screws and replaced the valve.

After reading all the repair info and reviewing the diagram for my wash machine on this website I was ready to tear into my washer. I removed the front panel and lid to access the tub, pulled out the plastic agitator and revealed the broken inner base hub. The base hub was cracked half way around causing the inner tub to drop down and drag on the outer tub, making the washer sound like it was coming through the wall on a spin cycle. I then unbolted the plastic cap and removed it revealing the hub nut. The most valuable piece of advice in the repair info was abouthe hub nut being a laft hand thread (clockwise to loosen)and that it was on really tight and hard to remove. I put a short 8" pipe wrench on it, because of the lack of clearance in the tub, and hit it with the handle of a all steel hammer to break it loose. Unbolted the balancing straps (4) on the plastic top rim cap that holds the tub in place, unsnapped and removed it, then carefully pulled out the tub. I also had to unscrew the the control panel to reveal and remove the 4 screws holding the fill tube brace so I could push it back to remove the tub. I then took the inner tub outside and took it apart, 3 parts. The top plastic rim, the tub, and the broken base hub that are held together with torx screws. Then it was cleanup time, very dirty on the inside, used a garden hose, scrub brush, sponge, and soap. Cleaned up the hub nut threads with a wire brush and then the outer tub withe a sponge and shop vac. When the base hub broke it caused the inner tub and outer tub to rub together making a groove and plastic shards on the bottom of the outer tub that I had to scrape and sand smooth. A shop vac an absolute necessity in getting all the grime and plastic crumbs out of the outer tub so they don't get in and clog the pump. I received the replacement parts in 2 days! Reassembled in reverse order and everything worked great! Not a bad project at all when you know what to expect, thanks to Part Select.com.

First and foremost, the job would have taken 2 hrs instead of 8 hrs. The problem was that no one on the help instructions said that the Hub Nut had a LEFT HAND thread and suggested to just break the nut off. Well, after chiseling off most of the nut I drilled small holes through the nut and removed the nut pieces. However; I learned that I had damaged the transmission seal and had to buy a new transmission $183. Had I known this the job would have taken much less time and at a cost of about $50.
PS: The washer runs great.

unscrewed the old coupling, brushed off yucky build up and replaced, ta da back to washing clothes constantly !

Took about 10 Minutes to have my washer up and running again. So easy, and I almost bought a new washer! Fixed it before my husband got home from work. Thank you PartSelect!

Placed a small rope under the agitator and pulled up with a sudden jerk . It popped right up and out . I removed the bolt holding the coupling .I then removed old coupling and replaced with new coupling and bolt. I then installed new agitator pushing down until it clicked into place . All done , less than 15 minutes . Thanks to others that gave their feedback so we could learn what to do .

Repair went good, only wish i had bought a new tub seal, washer, an split ring....but i managed to save the original ones an it seems to be working like new again! thanks Partselect!!!!

Front panel came off fairly easy then part just unplugged from main unit. It was very easy to fix. My wife first found the part at a Sears repair store and then started searching for the part for a lower cost. She came upon Part Select and found the part was not only lower but also the shipping time was less. After reading all the positive reviews we decided to give this company a try. She ordered the part on a Sunday afternoon and it was at our front door by Tuesday afternoon. We were so thrilled with the service and speed from PartSelect that we saved in our favorites. Would recommend this company to anyone.

The original problem was thought to be the timer as the washer would never start the spin cycle. After ordering the timer, I discovered that the problem was actually caused by the fact that I forgot to turn the cold tap water back on after I cleaned the cold water filter screen. The spin cycle does not start until after the tub fills with cold water and rinses the clothes! DUH!

However, while waiting for the new part to come in, I decided to open the old timer and inspect it. I noted that the switch contacts were pretty worn out and decided it would be best to replace the timer because of the age of the washer.

This is what I did:

1. Unplugged power from outlet.

2. Removed four torx head crews from across the top back side of control panel.

3. Tilt panel forward.

4. Note that the timer knob is held to the timer shaft with a plastic clip. You need long thin needle nose pliers to remove this clip. It pulls out and away from the shaft. Once that is done, you can pull the knob off in two pieces.

5. After the knob is off, you can disconnect the timer assembly using a nut driver. Remove the ground wire, disconnect the cable harness connector by squeezing in the locking tabs.

6. Install the new timer with single sheet metal screw, and reconnect cable connector.

7. Attach the ground wire.

8. Replace control knob and retaining clip.

9. Tilt back the control panel and replace the four torx head screws.

10. Plug washer back in.

11. MAKE SURE THE HOT and COLD WATER TAPS are TURNED ON. ;-)

12. Test washer. DONE.

I notice a strange noise when ever the tub would shut down from a spin cycle. When I would load clothes it seemed that the basket had to much lateral movement. I looked between the top of the frame & basket & found 2 of the dampening straps had broken. Ordered 4 of them to replace all the straps.

Replacement was easy. I popped the front cover of the machine off. Remove 2 screws which held the top down which gave easy access to the straps. The straps are held in place by 2 screws so it was a simple process of removing the screws, removing the straps from their anchors & reinstalling the screws with the new straps. Job done. Reinstall the top & front of the machine & put the wife back to work.

unplug machine and turn off water at the valve. the pressure switch is located behind the water level control knob. remove the knobs from the panel, then remove the panel on the top back of the machine and remove the wires from the pressure switch. unplug switch. attach wires to new switch and plug into place. replace panel and replace all the knobs.turn on the water valve and plug into outlet.

The trick is to pull the front cover off by using a putty knife .slide it under the cover at both front corners.it will click on each corner.then pull front cover off .lift off the bottom catch hooks.look for the pump on the bottom right side.unplug the wite connector .take 2-5/16 bolts out holding the bracket.then grab a pliers .squeeze the hose clamps and pull the 2 hoses off.assemble new pump.

Originally my water level sensor was broken. When I was repairing that, I noticed that the dampening straps were broken. Replacing them was easy. The hardest part was remembering how to open the top. I just searched the internet until I found the answer. I can't remember it all right now, but the key was to slide a putty knife in between the top and the front to pop open the body.