57071A0WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

Removed knobs, removed cold and hot inlet hoses,removed top cover, removed output hose, wire plugs, and three screws and replaced the valve.

Took complete tub assembly out of washer and inspected it. Did not find an obvious cause of leak but all 8 screws on inner tub hub were loose. As both tub nut and split ring were corroded, replaced them and the outer tub seal. Did a lot of cleaning!! As I was putting the trans assy back on the outer tub, I noticed a crack around the drain spout. At 1st, it looked like it belonged there but a closer look proved it didn't. I ordered a new outer tub (which came in 2 days) and I put the whole thing back together. Reassembly was far easier than disassembly was and I learned a whole lot about washers. YouTube is a great source of information.

Took about 10 Minutes to have my washer up and running again. So easy, and I almost bought a new washer! Fixed it before my husband got home from work. Thank you PartSelect!

Placed a small rope under the agitator and pulled up with a sudden jerk . It popped right up and out . I removed the bolt holding the coupling .I then removed old coupling and replaced with new coupling and bolt. I then installed new agitator pushing down until it clicked into place . All done , less than 15 minutes . Thanks to others that gave their feedback so we could learn what to do .

First and foremost, the job would have taken 2 hrs instead of 8 hrs. The problem was that no one on the help instructions said that the Hub Nut had a LEFT HAND thread and suggested to just break the nut off. Well, after chiseling off most of the nut I drilled small holes through the nut and removed the nut pieces. However; I learned that I had damaged the transmission seal and had to buy a new transmission $183. Had I known this the job would have taken much less time and at a cost of about $50.
PS: The washer runs great.

Repair went good, only wish i had bought a new tub seal, washer, an split ring....but i managed to save the original ones an it seems to be working like new again! thanks Partselect!!!!

Fold back control panel, pull water level knob off, and unlatch pressure switch. reverse procedure to install new switch.

unscrewed the old coupling, brushed off yucky build up and replaced, ta da back to washing clothes constantly !

I notice a strange noise when ever the tub would shut down from a spin cycle. When I would load clothes it seemed that the basket had to much lateral movement. I looked between the top of the frame & basket & found 2 of the dampening straps had broken. Ordered 4 of them to replace all the straps.

Replacement was easy. I popped the front cover of the machine off. Remove 2 screws which held the top down which gave easy access to the straps. The straps are held in place by 2 screws so it was a simple process of removing the screws, removing the straps from their anchors & reinstalling the screws with the new straps. Job done. Reinstall the top & front of the machine & put the wife back to work.

This story first. I went to local hardware where I purchased the dryer over 10 years ago and asked them if they could get me a new knob. I had the model number and serial number. They said sure can, but they are expensive. They told me that the knob was around $20. and that the shipping would be $10-$15. . Both was under $14.00 at this site. Just alined the knob up on the stem and pushed it on. THANKS!!

The trick is to pull the front cover off by using a putty knife .slide it under the cover at both front corners.it will click on each corner.then pull front cover off .lift off the bottom catch hooks.look for the pump on the bottom right side.unplug the wite connector .take 2-5/16 bolts out holding the bracket.then grab a pliers .squeeze the hose clamps and pull the 2 hoses off.assemble new pump.

First I removed the front panel using the screw driver. I removed the old belt which was in the bottom of the washer. I placed the new belt on the motor and adjusted the pullies. I replaced the front panel. The washer spins much better now than it had for the past year.

Originally my water level sensor was broken. When I was repairing that, I noticed that the dampening straps were broken. Replacing them was easy. The hardest part was remembering how to open the top. I just searched the internet until I found the answer. I can't remember it all right now, but the key was to slide a putty knife in between the top and the front to pop open the body.

Removed the bolt holding the agitator coupler on, replaced it and the bolt then slid the agitator on the coupler and the fabric softener dispenser on top of that.... so easy!!

Unscrew the 2 screws holding the drain hose clip to the machine - use bucket to get an excess water - remove bad drain line - I installed a new drain hose clip as well - make sure you put the clip on at the same position as the previous hose - push house firmly into opening and screw into machine - pretty easy repair - and I'm a novice