HBSR1070T2AB General Electric Washer - Instructions

Problem was intermittent. It would happen once a month or so. Eventually I set next to the machine and kept turning it On and OFF through cycles for about a half an hour until it failed and I was able to confirm that problem was with the water valve.

Buying and replacing the water valve was easy.

WARNING: UNPLUG THE WASHING MACHINE FROM THE WALL BEFORE ATEMPTING ANY ELECTRICAL WORK ON YOUR WASHING MACHINE!

It tooke some time to figure out where the water was leaking. It was from a small hole at the lateral side of the upper third of the drain inlet tube. Removing the hose was easy. Attaching it to the tub with a hose clamp was easy, but attaching the lower end to the pump motor was quite difficult because the spring clamp that had come with the washer was difficult to manipulate. I had to replace it with a band hose clamp.

By the way, the hole in the hose had been caused by rubbing the hose against the drain pipe from the motor to the sink.

I ordered the part on Wednesday didn't think we would be washing any clothes until atleast Monday. The pump came on Friday! Installed it 15-25 minutes(that's taking out the old one too) . As someone stated before the only (little) problem was the spring clamps. Screw the pump in first and then put the Clamps on.

First I took the bottom of the washer off so that I could get to the pump then I took a socket set to take the pump off. Then I put the new pump on and put the bottom of the washer back together.

Removed three nut screws and raised the control panel forward twisted the old switch off removed one wire at a time and put it on the new switch. I did this so the wires would be where they should. After I put the new switch on I replaced the three nut screws I plugged the washer in set it on cold water and it worked like it should.

replaced them & working fine now....

First I removed the two clamps that hold the inlet drain hose onto the pump. **There may still be water in the hose** This was pretty easy, but a set of vice grips would have been nice. The space is not too cramped, but required a little bit of wiggling. Putting it on was a little bit harder, just because I did not want to tear the hose on the tub or pump inlet. Make sure both are fully seated or else it could still leak. The drain hose and the clip are pretty self explanatory. I tried to buy a generic drain hose at a big box lumber yard, but I could never make it fit right.

Hope this helps.

After doing some troubleshooting, I found that the Air Bell was stripped inside.

First I removed the agitator by firmly pulling it straight up. Then I removed the bolt holding the air bell (agitator coupling) with a ratchet. Then came the hard part. The air bell (agitator coupling) was stuck on the shaft and would not come off. I used rope to lasso under the coupling and tied it to a 2x4 for leverage and eventually wrestled it off by using an upward jolting motion time and time again. Spraying WD-40 in the coupling seemed to help loosen it up.

Prior to installation, I cleaned the grooves of the shaft by scraping them out with a flat tip screw driver. Installed the new coupling by tapping it down with a hammer until it was seated firmly and locked it down with the new bolt. Aligned the agitator and slid it down until it latched. Done!

Watched the video, good video. But instead of taking the bolts out first, it's easier to remove bolts last, to give support to remove the hoses.

Easy enough. I had some help tightening the hoses to the inlet valve. I watched the video about how to repair and it was straight forward and easy to follow. You'll need a bit of strength to tighten the hoses to the dual water inlet valve. Be precise when lining up the threads of the hose and the inlet valve...don't force it...find it...if it goes on crooked it will strip the threads and wreck it. Recommend purchasing some plumbers tape to wrap on the the threads of the Dual Water Inlet Valve. Fixed the dripping water problem immediately.

1. take the machine apart, since the noise comes when the barrel is spining, I just watch for anything that contact to the axel.
2. without special tools, it was difficult to take off agigator, and a nut (that tighthened lefthanded).
3. Once defect part found, seach online for the part supply to replace.

The repair went just like the video! Easier than I would've hoped.

With screwdriver, I removed screws holding old hose in place. Attached new hose and screwed into place.

Unplug the washing machine. There are electrical components that can injure or kill you. Using a screw driver inserted just below the lid of the washer in the front, there are two (2) spring clips that you push on to release. Then the front of the washer tilts down and you remove it and set aside.
On the bottom right you will see the flexible, convoluted rubber hose connecting from the pump to the washer tub. Two (2) clamps hold the hose on. Remove the two clamps, install the new hose and re-install the clamps. Re-install the front panel and push into place, allowing clips to lock into the front panel.

First I removed the screws that held the drain hose clip to the washer. Then I pulled the hose, along with the clip, completely out of the washer. I then took the old hose out of the washer clip and put the new hose in the new clip; I pushed the hose into the washing maching and tightened the hose clip to the maching with the existing screws. Seriously easy, took less than 15 minutes. And I have virtually no handyman skills at all!