GTW460AMJ5WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

Turn off hot and cold water supply valves feeding washer.
Disconnect both water hoses from washing machine.
Remove two screws (one on each side) from upper silver colored metal plate on back of washer to allow access to (blue) water inlet valve.
Slightly lift the bottom portion of metal plate and slide to release hooks for easy removal.
Pull back and tilt forward plastic control panel to get it out of your way.
Disconnect two electrical connections (one on each side) of water inlet valve. One of these came off easily but the other one was stubborn and I had to force it off with a screw driver. If there is an easier way I don't know what it is.
Remove two screws from water inlet valve. (one on each side)
Gently pull up on stainless steel water temperature sensor located in the middle of the water inlet control valve. It has a black wire connected to it so be careful.
Once you have disconnect the sensor you can remove the water inlet valve.
If you look closely you will see a small blue O-ring in the hole where you removed the water temp sensor from the water inlet valve.
The new valve DOES NOT come with a replacement O-ring so you
will have to re-use the old one. I used a small jeweler's screwdriver to get the old out of the hole.
Don't forget to install the O-ring or your washer WILL leak!
Put everything back together in reverse order.
Check hose connections for leaks.
Hope this helps somebody. Wish I had known about the O-ring. It would have saved me a headache.

The replacement part looked absolutely nothing like the defective part. The old part was easily accessible and was easily unplugged from the wiring harness. I assume when the new part came, I would just plug it into the wiring harness, snap some of the trim pieces in place and be done. 5 minutes. But no. The replacement part was completely different and came with its own wiring harness and length
of wire which had to be installed. The installation of the wiring harness was extremely complicated which involved popping off the control panel of the washer, prying up the top and disconnecting some other pieces to complete the install. There should have been a clear warning on the replacement part, that it was completely different and likely too difficult for a non-professional repair man.

part select help

Use putty knife to unlock top panel from base. Remove 2 bolts from back of washer holding control section. Don't take completely off. 2 bolts needs to be removed to unsecure top from base. Lastly 2 screws hold lid in place. Remove lid. Slide top panel to left just to access lid lock. Unplug sensor. 1 screw and tabs hold lock in place. Watch position coming out so you don't get confused putting new lock in. Squeeze tabs, replace screw. plug in sensor. Reverse procedure to put top section back together.

The most important item I learned is the original lid switch is no longer available. It has been replaced with the entire Lid Switch Assembly. I read the new switch is magnetic versus the old which was mechanical. The kit comes with everything you will need (switch, wiring harness, lid lock bezel and instructions). I found the written instructions to not be the easiest to follow. However, I found someone had done a YouTube video on the replacement which made the repair easy (under 15 minutes). Although I did the repair by myself, a second person would be handy to hold the washer cover and controls while changing the wiring harness. When testing the new switch, remember to test during the Spin cycle.

We had a steady drip of water coming from the top of the washer. I felt around to find that it was coming from the blue plastic piece from which the water comes when the washer is filling, which is the water inlet valve assembly. There was no water leaking from the hoses, and so I figured that the problem must be the water inlet valve. It was a very easy replacement:

1. Unplug the washer from the electrical outlet.
2. Turn off the water supply to the washer.
3. Disconnect the hoses directly at the back of the washer, remembering which one was on which side. You can also attach them to the new water inlet valve assembly at this time, as it can be installed with the hoses on.
4. Remove the two vertical screws at the back of the washer. They are on the far sides. Use a quarter inch bit to remove them. Keep them nearby.
5. You can now gently remove the control panel top by pulling up and toward the back of the machine. Be gentle so that you do not pull up any wires or dislodge any hoses!
6. You will see two electrical plugs attached to the inlet valves. Gently unplug them. One of them has a plastic tab holding it on, so pull that up carefully as you slide it off.
7. There is a small circular plug in the center of the blue inlet valve assembly. Gently remove it by prying it up from the metal circle. There is also a small rubber o-ring that should still be attached to that plug, but it might have come loose and still be in the water inlet valve contraption, so pull it out with something and stick it back on the plug with the circle metal piece.
8. Remove two small screws that are near each other that hold the blue inlet valve assembly in place. There is also a metal bracket holding it there that will come loose once these screws are removed.
9. You can now remove the entire blue plastic piece by rotating it and pulling through the hole.
10. Put the new water inlet valve in, and plug everything in the way it was, securely fastening screws and hoses. Be sure that no other hoses or wires came loose from the control panel.
11. Plug the washer back into the power, turn the water back on, and that should be it!

Following directions from a Youtube video.

Replacement was extremely easy:
1. Shutoff Water Valves
2. Removed hoses from Washer
3. Removed two screws to get control unit off.
4. Removed wires to valve assembly.
5. Removed Screw holding assembly in place.
6. Removed temp sensor from assembly.
7. Unit came right out and reversed the process for replacement Unit.
8. Very easy...

There's two nuts on the back of the washer holding the metal backplate. I used my 11-1 Klein screwdriver. Once you get the screws out lift the backplate slightly and pull the whole top assembly out of it's spot and lean it forward onto top of the washer.

Take pictures of where the wires go so you can remember for later.

Disconnect the two wires and remove the two screws holding the metal plate. Same size nuts driver as the other screws.

Remove the sensor by just wiggling it out.
Slide the intake assemby out of it's spot.
Slide the new one in.
Then just do everything you did in reverse.

Takes 10 minutes. Super easy.

unplugged old part plugged in new, took about 2 minutes.

this is a great web site, I didn't have to wait for a serviceman to come. and maybe not have the part and come back again. ........thanks

IF you do the same repair, SAVE THE LITTLE O-RING that is inside the old part where the temperature probe stick in (If that is indeed what it is). It's chrome in color. New part does NOT come with that O-ring

I just took old one out an put new one in

Easy fix. Take out the two screws on the backside of the control panel and remove control panel out of the way. You will need a long shaft nut driver or 1/4 inch socket extension to be able to get to the nuts, one on each side of the back of the control panel. The water inlet valve is right there in your face. Easy to remove and replace. Remember to save the small O-ring in the center of the top of the valve and reuse it. Oh, by-the-way, shut the water off first and unplug the washer. Replacement part was a perfect match.

The parts I ordered were made of junk plastic and did not match up with the the existing parts. The parts did not end up fixing the problem and I bought a new washer instead.

Waste of money

Installing the inlet value was very easy the only thing was a very small "O" ring wasn't supplied with the value, so I removed the one on the leaking value. Not care must be taken not to damage the used "O"
The washer is running with no leaks
Thank you, for, saving me hundreds of dollars