PTWN6250M1WT General Electric Washer - Instructions

Popped off the front panel and removed two screws that help top down. Then pulled the top of the washer up and leaned back out of way.Then each strap had a screw on each end and a clip that holds straps just remove the old and replace with new and put back together.

First I googled the problem. Then ordered your part, from specs on your website. Went to Lowes and bout butt splicers. Then when I got email that it shipped I watched the video attached. Awesome. Very proud as I am a woman. Video was excellent. Thank you, Maureen

FIRST, TURNED OFF THE MAIN VALVE INTO THE HOME..AND BLED THE LINES. USED A SMALL BUCKET AND DISCONNECTED THE LINES FROM THE WASHER. TOOK THE PLATE OFF THE WASHER AND DISCONNECTED THE OLD INLET VALVE CONNECTED THE NEW VALVE AND REPLACED THE COVER PLATE. SINCE I HAD THE MACHINE DISCONNECTED, I PUT NEW WATER LINES AND REPLACED THE HAT AND COLD WATER VALVES WITH NEW 1/4 TURN BOILER BALL VALVES. TURNED THE WATER BACK ONTO THE HOUSE AND RAN THE FAUCET SO THERE WOULD BE NO AIR IN THE LINES WHEN I TURNED THE WATER ON TO THE WASHER.

Use paint scraper to release spring tabs holding front cover on.

Removed 2 screws holding lid down, and lifted up but did not remove top cover and control panel.

R/R 2 hex screws holding strap in place. If you are lucky and the broken strap is up front this is a super fast repair. Those of you with a rear strap will want to disconnect the wiring harness to the lid switch and likely remove the top panel (+ <5 mins).

Super easy and super cheap!

IT was so easy to replace the pump. I think the hardest part was trying to get the pliers to work right. All I had to do was unscrew two bolts, take off two pipes, get the new pump and replace the pipes and bolts. It was that easy.

used a socket to unscrew the clip. pulled out the old hose, slid the new hose into the clip and screwed the clip back on. all fixes should be this easy.

It was easy, I just removed the old drain hose clip with a screwdriver. Next, removed the old, cracked hose, inserted the new one, and screwed the new clip in.
The best part about this story is the incredible service I was given, by this company. I bought the machine at Sears, so I assumed I could find the hose their. No, they instructed me to go to Orchard Supply(their sister store), I purchased a drain hose, the clerk told me to buy, but the water was still leaking. So, I went on-line and found the right hose, and now I will continue to purchase what I ned for my machine from your company. REALLY Fast Service. Thanks

a) remove front panel by depressing the 2 clips at the top in line with the lid b) remove the lid switch and 2 screws holding top on and remove top by tilting up SLIGHTLY and sliding to left. c) Remove agitator and by pulling straight up on it and remove adapter underneath d)remove 4 bolts holding 4 rubber straps to top of tub assembly, readily visible when top is removed. e) unplug motor wiring and disconnect pump and bleach hoses from tub f)while lifting up on tub, push down on each of the 4 suspension rods and disconnect them at bottom of tub ( this is the most difficult part, and to make it easier disconnect the rear rods first) g) tilt tub forward and remove tub assembly h) NOW, for the big nut that holds the spin basket in-- #1, it is LEFT HAND THREAD, so you will turn it to the right to remove it. #2, it is VERY TIGHT and requires a 1&11/16" spanner wrench (which I did not have) for removal. Instead, I used a 1&11/16 socket, an extension and an air impact wrench to remove and replace the nut. Assembly is reverse of removal and remember, that nut is ALUMINUM so be careful with that impact wrench when tightening it back up!I replaced the nut and split ring and cleaned the whole area thoroughly, and it greatly reduced the noise in spin mode. I did not replace the metal housing on the bottom of the spin basket, because it was $50 bucks. this probably would have eliminated all the noise, but my repair only cost $19 in parts, including shipping ,and the parts arrived in 1 day.

I followed the video and paused it after every step. What gave me the most trouble was the tub nut which would not turn so I used a chisel and it just disintegrated along with the split ring, so that worked. Now its like a new machine. It was a fun job and I'm glad I did it instead of replacing the whole washing machine.

You tube is the only way to go!

Pretty much the entire machine has to come apart to replace a transmission. The thing to know that no one mentioned is that the hub nut is reverse threaded - that means righty loosey.
Even if I had known, I tried it both ways and I doubt I could have gotten it off without the chisel as the others also had to do. Split ring was also frozen in place by hard water and soap scum so had to break that cheesey piece of aluminum off also. If you are taking apart your washer, I advise ordering these 2 parts so you will have them after you destroy the old ones trying to get to the part you need to fix.

Thanks to parts select for the exploded diagram!

Followed video to take washer apart. I used the Shaft & Drive Assembly to tap out bearing as it was stuck. BTW the screeching was because the Shaft & Drive Assembly ball bearing retainer cage was in pieces. Replaced tub bearing and installed new Shaft & Drive Assembly. Washer now runs like new. Get the spanner wrench to remove existing nut and purchase a new nut.

I watched the video and disassembled the machine pretty much the way the video showed. There were a few differences but nothing big. The noise sounded like a dry bearing but wasn't sure where it was. Read the responses and it said it was the tub bearing washer. It made some sense if it was metal on metal. It was a dry bearing (should have listened to my common sense, but these guys know more than I do when it comes to washer repair) on the transmission that had been ruined because of a leaky tub seal, which I also replaced. The transmission was not available at the time of repair (but is now) but that kind of investment may be better in a new unit. There is a video on YouTube that shows you how to replace the bearing, BUT it requires someone with some mechanical knowledge. I'll try it later in the year and if it doesn't work we'll have to purchase a new unit.

First, remove the old water pump by disconnecting the respective hose, then wipe the area where the pump was, and proceeded to connect the new water pump, of course I did all this with the machine disconnected from the power electric, then proceeded to connect the inlet hoses of hot water and cold water, electricity connected to the machine and did a test with clothes in the washing machine. and now everything is going well, thanks for your valuable help.
sincerely, a satisfied customer

Removed center fabric softener cup. removed agitator holding NUT & washer. Lifted off agitator. Pried off Coupling Pulsator.
Cleaned off all parts (soap Scum )
Installed new Coupling Pulsator (tapped gently down with wood hammer handle) Installed agitator& hold down nut&washer. Installed softener cup.
Job done & noise gone .
Thanks Part Select