WCCN2050F0WC General Electric Washer - Instructions

Took complete tub assembly out of washer and inspected it. Did not find an obvious cause of leak but all 8 screws on inner tub hub were loose. As both tub nut and split ring were corroded, replaced them and the outer tub seal. Did a lot of cleaning!! As I was putting the trans assy back on the outer tub, I noticed a crack around the drain spout. At 1st, it looked like it belonged there but a closer look proved it didn't. I ordered a new outer tub (which came in 2 days) and I put the whole thing back together. Reassembly was far easier than disassembly was and I learned a whole lot about washers. YouTube is a great source of information.

Took front of washer off,found that all of the straps were broke ,removed two small bolts from each strap pulled plastic support from from broken strap and put it in new strap,put plastic supported end of strap in first put bolt in and mounted other end to drum,easy job just about any one with common since could do it.Got to go laundry to wash :-)

I had no difficulty dismantling the washer until I got to the hub nut. It was frozen to the cone shaped fitting it was resting in. I had to take a drill and a 3/16" drill bit and drill the flange of the hub nut and then take a chisel and break it off piece by piece. Once that was off, I lifted the tub out and tried to pry off the split ring under the tub and it too was corroded and broke when I tried to pull it off. So I would advise you to buy a hub nut and a split ring if you are replacing the tub bearing, just to be safe. I went to an appliance parts store here in town and bought them. When reassembling the tub, I couldn't get a wrench or pliers on the hub nut to get enough torque to tighten it securely. And since I didn't want to spend $43 to buy a spanner wrench for a one time repair, I went to Harbor Freight and bought a $15 dollar adjustable wrench and cut 3 1/2" off the handle so it would lay flat to the tub and used a hammer to tap on the handle to tighten it securely. If you do not find some way to tighten the tub securely, it will come loose in the spin cycle like it did on me twice before I purchased the adjustable wrench and modified it to work. Plus I still have a useable adjustable wrench. Additionally, I took the washer cabinet, the tub and the tub sleeve and power washed it to get years of grime off of it. The washer now operates like new, saving me hundreds of dollars.

Easy to replace, take off the front cover take off hoses unscrew and attach the new pump. Problem wasn't the pump. Now that I have a new pump, not sure what to do next.

Originally my water level sensor was broken. When I was repairing that, I noticed that the dampening straps were broken. Replacing them was easy. The hardest part was remembering how to open the top. I just searched the internet until I found the answer. I can't remember it all right now, but the key was to slide a putty knife in between the top and the front to pop open the body.

Disassembled washer removed shaft and drive tube assembly reinstalled new unit and replaced split nut during assembly.

I notice a strange noise when ever the tub would shut down from a spin cycle. When I would load clothes it seemed that the basket had to much lateral movement. I looked between the top of the frame & basket & found 2 of the dampening straps had broken. Ordered 4 of them to replace all the straps.

Replacement was easy. I popped the front cover of the machine off. Remove 2 screws which held the top down which gave easy access to the straps. The straps are held in place by 2 screws so it was a simple process of removing the screws, removing the straps from their anchors & reinstalling the screws with the new straps. Job done. Reinstall the top & front of the machine & put the wife back to work.

There is a metal plate on back of the top of the washer held on by 3 screws. Removed them and that gave you access to the water valve. Water valve was fastened with 2 screws. Removed them and the hose that was connected with a clamp. Reversed the order on the installation and done. Whole job took 20 min. Now I know where to get parts. This site was awesome. Ordered the part on Tuesday, UPS delivered Thursday.

Turns out that water valve was bad but that's not the only thing I find out after I replaced that part my washer could not register what load size is on so there is bad pressure hose and pressure switch also. Easy unplug washer turn off water remove water supply hoses then unscrew the 3 screws that are holding control panel. Disconnect old valve from the cable plug unscrew the screw that is holding water valve. Install new valve by placing it in the same place where the old one was screw the screw that holds the valve connect it to the cable plug connect water supply hoses plug plug in the washer back and turn on the water. Check for possible leaks and test your washer by choosing the smallest load.

Reached down into the washer bowl. Fingers on each side of the agitator base. Quick jolt up agitator popped out adjustable wrench took the bolt. Off of the agitator coupling removed coupling wire, brushed the gear slots installed a new coupling with both new bolt lined up, agitator slots pump, the new agitator on after lined up with a down force quick jolt, then installed the new fabric softener, part on top of agitator

Popped off the front panel and removed two screws that help top down. Then pulled the top of the washer up and leaned back out of way.Then each strap had a screw on each end and a clip that holds straps just remove the old and replace with new and put back together.

The washer came apart fairly easy until I tried removing tub nut Huge Problem!! After beating the spanner wrench to death I purchased a $50 43mm impact socket to remove the nut. I cleaned up the tub and shaft and started reassembly by replacing bearing 6006rs that I found locally. When I started installing the tub seal I ran into a major issue. Seal would not fit properly, it was to loose in tub. The seal was not large enough for outside diameter. It was a 1/16 of inch or so off. I tried two seals and neither one would work. After talking with a retired repair tech I found that the tub was bad and that the old seal had corroded so bad that it expanded the tub seal housing. I decided not to spend anymore money for this junk of a washer and I applied rtv sealant & reassembled. I'll use it until it breaks down and trash it, very bad design for tub seal, nothing holds it in place, pushed up out of tub. I don't think the rtv sealant well hold for very long. I do appreciate the instructional video for repairs, they are very helpful for showing procedures as to the repair but it's a new machine that's used and everything comes apart so easy. 5 year old washer doesn't come apart that easy. It took 2 weeks to fix it after waiting on parts and doing a unconventional repair to tub seal. So now my wife has started searching for another washer because this one is running on a prayer!

Followed your video instructions and removed agitator.Used 7/16 3/8 in socket wrench to remove bolt in the agitator coupling and replaced coupling. Put new bolt in and tightened. Installed Agitator.Works Great.

Use paint scraper to release spring tabs holding front cover on.

Removed 2 screws holding lid down, and lifted up but did not remove top cover and control panel.

R/R 2 hex screws holding strap in place. If you are lucky and the broken strap is up front this is a super fast repair. Those of you with a rear strap will want to disconnect the wiring harness to the lid switch and likely remove the top panel (+ <5 mins).

Super easy and super cheap!

Followed video to take washer apart. I used the Shaft & Drive Assembly to tap out bearing as it was stuck. BTW the screeching was because the Shaft & Drive Assembly ball bearing retainer cage was in pieces. Replaced tub bearing and installed new Shaft & Drive Assembly. Washer now runs like new. Get the spanner wrench to remove existing nut and purchase a new nut.