GTW460ASJ6WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

Turned washer on to its side. Removed belt cover, three screws. Removed old belt. Cleaned both pulleys thoroughly, removing all traces of oil. Cleaned grooves thoroughly on motor pulley with small screwdriver. Installed new belt. Replaced cover. Turned washer upright.

Installing the inlet value was very easy the only thing was a very small "O" ring wasn't supplied with the value, so I removed the one on the leaking value. Not care must be taken not to damage the used "O"
The washer is running with no leaks
Thank you, for, saving me hundreds of dollars

IF you do the same repair, SAVE THE LITTLE O-RING that is inside the old part where the temperature probe stick in (If that is indeed what it is). It's chrome in color. New part does NOT come with that O-ring

unplugged old part plugged in new, took about 2 minutes.

this is a great web site, I didn't have to wait for a serviceman to come. and maybe not have the part and come back again. ........thanks

Attached the lid striker with 2 screws to hold it in place

I just took old one out an put new one in

Extremely easy. You will need a helper to make it easy. The best directions are on you tube.

You have to take the top off of the washer and the four suspension rods are at each corner. Fairly simple removal and installation of the rods. A quick you tube search is all it took. Easy peasy.

Replaced with new transmission platform. Unfortunately the seal is irreplaceable. Must have 1-5/16 inch wrench for tub nut (not 1-11/16).

Replaced with new water valve solenoid. Leak stopped. Yah!

6y/o washer.
First checked lid switch. It turns out that the connector was disconnected. Probably became disconnected after the shaking from an unbalanced load. Reconnected and worked for three loads, then failed to spin again.

Purchased switch kit, belt and mode shifter, but held off the replacement. Parts select shared the diagnostic sheet. You can find yours inside the washer in a Ziploc bag. Tilt washer back and look underneath.

Went through diagnostic codes and all checked out fine. Did a fault reset. Worked again for three loads then failed to spin. GE sent a tech ($109 for service call). His diagnosis read-out showed rods/springs needed replacement. Parts arrived in three days and took about 45 minutes to r&r (I marked the new ones with a marker when unpacking to avoid confusion). USE VISE GRIPS AND.INSTALL FROM THE TOP. DO THE REAR.ONES FIRST Afterward, three loads done fourth load no spin.

Replaced lid switch with the kit. Again 3 loads fine, 4th load spin fail.

Note; each unplug & replug in resets the error codes, which may explain the 3 load temporary fix.

Did more research...

Finally, replaced old lid switch with lid switch kit (old switch was functioning fine, but I had the kit, so replaced it, in the event it was throwing an error code. Again 3 loads fine, 4th failed to spin.

Tilted washer back 45° for bottom access. Removed old belt. Belt and pulleys were loaded with grease/oil. Pulled both pulleys and scoured them. Replaced mode shifter. Note; old belt was about 3/4" larger diameter than new belt. Part#s matched, so it was the correct belt. Obviously the old belt was very worn. Oil/grease may be a combination of two things 1-slight leak from transmission seal, without any puddles on the floor and 2- the heat from the worn belt degrading the petroleum within.

While under the washer, removed the pump and hoses, checking for obstructions in the hoses and impeller. None found.

While underneath I grabbed the tech sheet from inside wall.

Checked the capacitance of the capacitor. Spec on the capacitor is 60 +/-5%. Mine tested at 61.1...within specs. (Be sure to discharge capacitor safely first!)

Reassembled the machine. Working fine through fifteen loads so far.

Final note. YouTube videos for all these steps online.
Conclusions; mechanically easy repair for DIYer. Probable causes...Belt worn, mode shifter and rods/springs worn out.

Total cost ~$200 parts + $109 for GE tech call.
Labor ~3 hours, but only because of so many disassembly re-assembly attempts at repair. Had it all been done at one time, total time would've been <1.5 hours

Thanks parts select and Barb (you're awesome)

The drain pump had three screws. Frist unplug the machine and turn the water off. And unplug the hose for the Hot and Clod Water. Make sure their no water in the tub. Unplug the pipe from the Tub. The unscrew the nut for the connector. Then unplug the connector and be careful not to damage plug for the connector. Press the plug connector with your finger or long nose pliers . Then just hook the new plumb and you all set.

The parts I ordered were made of junk plastic and did not match up with the the existing parts. The parts did not end up fixing the problem and I bought a new washer instead.

Waste of money

Remove agitator, had to cut out the top half. It would not twist out. Remove the bottom plate of the agitator. Remove the 33 mm bolt from the spindle. (impact wrench) Underneath remove water pump, clutch solenoid, motor and transmission pulley. Remove eight bolts holding transmission. Pull transmission down and disconnect the wiring harness. Reinstall new transmission and replace components. Test machine after installing agitator bottom plate before adding top half of agitator. Just in case there was a problem. Machine is running well!!!

Instructions were fairly good, line up holes and push a phillips head screwdriver thru auger then twist it off. Problem is you can only use a short screwdriver due to space limitations, and it is or at least for me was impossible to twist the auger off as directed, but after I lost my temper and gave the screwdriver a good thump (auger was already broke, what's the harm) with my left hand the auger came right off, putting the new one on is very simple.

Replaced water pump. Washer now works as new.
Wife is now happy!