GCWN2800D2WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

Reach down and grab the base of the agitator with both hands and yank up with slightly more pressure on the left or right, whichever side you prefer. This will break loose the holding clamps/pull straight up. To re-install: align slots and push down until it snaps. Simple as that.

I bought all three parts but I noticed that the dial was very loose. I reapaired this first and it was working

I watched the video provided by your site and followed it. I removed the clothes softener part from the agitator, Got a good grip on the agitator and pulled up. It came right off. Aligned the new agitator groves and slid it into place, put the fabric softener part back on! Super easy.

pulled front panel off it snaps in but had to get off. then remove two bolts holding too down. moved top around to get to straps. front to easy 5/16 deep socket aND rather .the other end has 1/4 socket back hard to get too not bad. took 30 minutes. didn't fix problem. on bottom of motor looks like it had rubber bumpers but none there didn't find any on parts list. went to parts house auto got two rubber freeze plugs installed them in hole on bottom of motor that stopped the noise and rube moves very little now. also install new belt . install it put it on motor then on part of pulley then roll pull while keeping belt on motor roll pulley around till belt on all the way then roll pull more pushing on belt on motor till belt fit in all groves then roll it couple more times it will line groves up on pull. install top back down then snap front panel it your done.

Followed the instructions on repair clinic video

The washer came apart fairly easy until I tried removing tub nut Huge Problem!! After beating the spanner wrench to death I purchased a $50 43mm impact socket to remove the nut. I cleaned up the tub and shaft and started reassembly by replacing bearing 6006rs that I found locally. When I started installing the tub seal I ran into a major issue. Seal would not fit properly, it was to loose in tub. The seal was not large enough for outside diameter. It was a 1/16 of inch or so off. I tried two seals and neither one would work. After talking with a retired repair tech I found that the tub was bad and that the old seal had corroded so bad that it expanded the tub seal housing. I decided not to spend anymore money for this junk of a washer and I applied rtv sealant & reassembled. I'll use it until it breaks down and trash it, very bad design for tub seal, nothing holds it in place, pushed up out of tub. I don't think the rtv sealant well hold for very long. I do appreciate the instructional video for repairs, they are very helpful for showing procedures as to the repair but it's a new machine that's used and everything comes apart so easy. 5 year old washer doesn't come apart that easy. It took 2 weeks to fix it after waiting on parts and doing a unconventional repair to tub seal. So now my wife has started searching for another washer because this one is running on a prayer!

I had to insert a broom stick to keep the drive pulley from rotating as I hammered the tub nut loose.

2nd tip, my washer has the standard agitator with the glued on cap; it was unclear if I needed to remove it; you should clarify that this is not necessary, that one must only pop up the entire agitator; I used a shipping strap looped under the agitator and over a 2x4 across the top of the frame, tightening until the tub was raised a bit and then a gentle pop down on the tub and the agitator easily popped off.

Could not complete repair. The pulsator was rusted on the shaft, used wd 40, finally pried off the shaft. The hub nut was so corroded on the shaft I could not remove it. Reassembled the Machine.

Removed the front of the washer using a putty knife. Removed the old belt and used a shop-vac to c,San up the insides. Placed the belt on the pulley and used three med sized zip ties about one inch apart. I cut off the exposed tail of the zip ties. Got the belt started around and put the belt onto the small pulley. Keeping an eye on the small pulley to make sure the belt did not slip off, I had to push it up a time or two. Then as I pulled the big pulley around, one zip tie broke, replaced it and continued pulling the big pulley, it got tough but with one knee pushing on the drum and pulling with one had it went on. I did slowly turn it to align the belt on the big and small pulleys. Not hard, I recommend a bright flashlight and gloves. I saved a good buck doing it myself :-)

Unplug washer to keep from running.Pull out on selector. After determining how knob was held in place, used coat hanger with short 90 on one end to catch clip holding knob in place. Pulled clip, removed knob.Placed clip on back of new knob just enough to hold. Placed knob on shaft, pressed down on clip to lock in place. All Done. Use of small flashlight is helpful. Replug washer.

Unplugged...Removed back from washer...Using nut driver-cordless drill...Inspected hose-found leak....Removed hose with pliers & screw driver.....Than dried the hose...& than for temporary fix (for the wife to continue washing) used some Epoxy for rubber.....Than ordered new part. Received and reinstalled replacement. Thank you

Pull hose out from wall and drain water into bucket. Remove two screws from back of washer holding on the clip. Pull hose out from washer its in there about 3 inches or so . If you order a new clip will make this even easier it's only $3.87 and I didn't realize I needed it. So, I just cut the old hose with a small saw near the clip so I could remove it and reuse it. Just slide the clip onto the end of the new hose - it fits into one of the grooves-I just made a note of where that was before removing from old hose. Then replace the two screws on the clip going to the back of washer. Put other end of hose into pipe in wall.

This repair was a no brainer repair. The factory replacement knob that I bought from this site comes with a new "D"-Ring. Some other aftermarket parts houses sell the knob and the "D"-Ring as seperate parts. The knob from this site already has the "D"-Ring ring installed in the knob. My "D"-ring was broken and I simply removed it with my fingers. All I had to do was properly align the new know knob with the timer shaft and press it into place. If your "D"-ring is not broken and not still inside the old knob, you will need to pull it off the shaft with a pair of pliers before pressing the new knob onto the timer shaft. Dr. "B" The Hot Rod Doc

Repair went well but there was clips to the door switch not in the video. Still was easy to work around and complete.

Watched the video. Followed the instructions. This has to be one of the best sites I have ever encountered. Even a caveman could fix the problem after watching the video.