WPRB9220C0WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

Pull front cover and changed pump. Your delivery of this part was remarkable. Thanks for such good service.

My wife calls me and says that the washer is not draining water so I was like "great"...here goes more money. After I tried draining, cleaning, checking for leaks, I looked up possible causes and came across the water pump. I have bought from parts select and I love this website so I jumped on here, found the causes, diagram, installation videos, and cheap parts. Added to cart, paid, and was here in about two days. I disconnected the electricity, opened the front lid, took off the two hoses, unscrewed the pump, swapped in the new one and hooked it back up. The washer works like new, took me about 10 minutes. Thanks Partselect!!!!

I first placed a rope under the fins of the agitator and used a 2X4 board to pull up the agitator which needed very little force to release itself from the agitator coupling. I removed the nut holding the agitator coupling, removed the stripped agitator coupling. Installation was just the reverse process, inserted the new agitator coupling, placed and tightened the screw, and pressed down the agitator over the agitator coupling and I was done. Over time for the repair was between 5 and 10 minutes, very easy, and I have no experience repairing washing machines.

I put my fingers under the agitator and pull up , this pulled it off the couplier, then I used a 11mm wrench to remove the bolt that holds the couplier in place and pulled the couplier off, the new couplier didnt arrive until after I went to work but my wife had it all back together when I got back home,I told her what to do and she said it only took about 10 mins. to get together, very easy.

We removed the agitator then the bolt holding couplier. The inside of the plastic couplier had stripped after 5 years. We cleaned around the metal part of the agitator then installed the new GE plastic couplier, put in the bolt & replaced the agitator. The machine works better than ever.

The GE website said this part had to be replaced by a certified technician. The estimated service call alone was $80 & the part was not available from the GE website.

Repair was done with the help of step by step insructions available on utube, just enter model# and the repair you need to do. One problem I had was new tub seal{GE part] was a little smaller in diamater than the seal I removed And still leaked when I first ran washer So I took it back out and used a sealer [Permatex Indian Head gasket shellac compound from auto parts store] as recommended by one of the the repair techs on utube and it sealed it perfectly, just let it set op for about three hours and nice and dry now

1. Remove agitator with a quick upward jolt.
2. Remove bolt with ratchet or wrench.
3. Remove agitator coupling.
4. Install new coupling, tighten new bolt and slide agitator down until it latches after aligning appropriately.

Repair went great. The large nut had to be soaked to free it but the part was an exact fit.

I watched the YouTube video. Great help. The part was at my house less than 24 hours after I ordered. Great delivery! The repair was a no brainer even for a novice like me.

Replaced pump. New pump same manufacturer and model, but better built; however, base plate not same, requiring that I swap it for the original. Also, pump suction inlet is straight-in, whereas original has 90 degree connection. Disconnect power, and remove old pump. Purchase a 1 1/2" I.D. auto radiator hose, cut off use the 90 degree bend; it's a perfect fit to pump conn.; use a 1" PVC coupling on other end socket to mate to the washer drum convoluted drain hose socket. Throw away the crappy original G.E. hard-to-use spring hose clamps and use stainless steel automotive type gear clamps instead. WARNING: Do not try to bend, stretch, or kink the rubber tub drain hose to fit up to the pump without installing an elbow; the installation geometry must be exactly the same as the factory-designed installation. To finish the job, power up and run the machine through several cycles with the front cover off to check for leaks. You will also see why the rubber drain hose must be reinstalled as described above. This washer does not ramp down speed when in the spin cycle, and when the motor stops, the drum makes a sudden 15 to 30 degree rotation, stretching the drain hose to it's limit. Finally, keep your hands out of the machine when it's running; the motor, belt, and transmission drive can cause some real damage if you get tangled up in them. Pay attention to what you are doing; if you are confused by my little dissertation, hire someone qualified to do the job for you.

I took off the front of the washer with two screw drivers. Removed the hose clamps with the pliers then removed the two screws with the nut driver and changed out the pump. Nothing to it. Easy fix, it works like new for $45 and 15 minutes.

So easy to fix. The best thing about it all was the guidance of the website. We were able to locate the exact part and followed the instructions on how to replace, piece of cake!

As the video described. The two rear dampening straps holding screws were only accessible from underneath making their installation much more difficult than the front ones which were accessible from the top.

First I removed the Front panel with a screwdriver, poped right out. Disconnected the two wires, removed two clamps from hoses on pump, then two screws at base. removed old pump, installed new pump ,tighten two screws, reinstalled hoses and clamps to pump, then put front panel back on, job completed in less than 1/2 hour. tested washer, pump worked and drained tub. easy fix saved cost to repairman $150 plus part cost.
Thanks for the information , learned how to change pump from another repair story on your web site!!

After doing some research on the problem I decided that the rubber tub dampers were probably the problem. Replacing them was simple and straight forward after watching the video. A test spin after installation revealed that the problem still existed. This time I watched the bottom of the tub with a flashlight as the spin cycle began and I discovered that the concrete counter-weight was loose on its platform. General Electric had attached a 5 lb concrete block to the tub support with two self tapping sheet metal screws that had stripped out. I screwed the screws back in and added two nuts to the protruding screw bottom and locked them together. Problem solved. The main difficulty in this repair is reaching to the back of the washing while laying on the floor. And sharp edges on everything.