WCSR4170DACC General Electric Washer - Instructions

I put my fingers under the agitator and pull up , this pulled it off the couplier, then I used a 11mm wrench to remove the bolt that holds the couplier in place and pulled the couplier off, the new couplier didnt arrive until after I went to work but my wife had it all back together when I got back home,I told her what to do and she said it only took about 10 mins. to get together, very easy.

We removed the agitator then the bolt holding couplier. The inside of the plastic couplier had stripped after 5 years. We cleaned around the metal part of the agitator then installed the new GE plastic couplier, put in the bolt & replaced the agitator. The machine works better than ever.

The GE website said this part had to be replaced by a certified technician. The estimated service call alone was $80 & the part was not available from the GE website.

1. Remove agitator with a quick upward jolt.
2. Remove bolt with ratchet or wrench.
3. Remove agitator coupling.
4. Install new coupling, tighten new bolt and slide agitator down until it latches after aligning appropriately.

After doing some research on the problem I decided that the rubber tub dampers were probably the problem. Replacing them was simple and straight forward after watching the video. A test spin after installation revealed that the problem still existed. This time I watched the bottom of the tub with a flashlight as the spin cycle began and I discovered that the concrete counter-weight was loose on its platform. General Electric had attached a 5 lb concrete block to the tub support with two self tapping sheet metal screws that had stripped out. I screwed the screws back in and added two nuts to the protruding screw bottom and locked them together. Problem solved. The main difficulty in this repair is reaching to the back of the washing while laying on the floor. And sharp edges on everything.

The repair was done as describe by others with the "hub nut" having to be cut off due to corrosion. Instructions for removal of the tub were found inside the control panel area on the left hand side. Ordering s new hub nut and cutting off the old one proved to be a necessity.

Replaced pump. New pump same manufacturer and model, but better built; however, base plate not same, requiring that I swap it for the original. Also, pump suction inlet is straight-in, whereas original has 90 degree connection. Disconnect power, and remove old pump. Purchase a 1 1/2" I.D. auto radiator hose, cut off use the 90 degree bend; it's a perfect fit to pump conn.; use a 1" PVC coupling on other end socket to mate to the washer drum convoluted drain hose socket. Throw away the crappy original G.E. hard-to-use spring hose clamps and use stainless steel automotive type gear clamps instead. WARNING: Do not try to bend, stretch, or kink the rubber tub drain hose to fit up to the pump without installing an elbow; the installation geometry must be exactly the same as the factory-designed installation. To finish the job, power up and run the machine through several cycles with the front cover off to check for leaks. You will also see why the rubber drain hose must be reinstalled as described above. This washer does not ramp down speed when in the spin cycle, and when the motor stops, the drum makes a sudden 15 to 30 degree rotation, stretching the drain hose to it's limit. Finally, keep your hands out of the machine when it's running; the motor, belt, and transmission drive can cause some real damage if you get tangled up in them. Pay attention to what you are doing; if you are confused by my little dissertation, hire someone qualified to do the job for you.

As the video described. The two rear dampening straps holding screws were only accessible from underneath making their installation much more difficult than the front ones which were accessible from the top.

Repair went great. The large nut had to be soaked to free it but the part was an exact fit.

I watched the YouTube video. Great help. The part was at my house less than 24 hours after I ordered. Great delivery! The repair was a no brainer even for a novice like me.

Got a new part in the Agitator Coupling Kit, as the existing part was worm down. Simply removed and inserted the plastic bottom, used a mallet to pound it down and it was finished. By checking a video, I felt comfortable in doing the repair myself. A greater feelings was knowing I didn't have to go out and buy a new clothes washer. Thanks PartSelect for having the right part to complete this project.

Repair was done with the help of step by step insructions available on utube, just enter model# and the repair you need to do. One problem I had was new tub seal{GE part] was a little smaller in diamater than the seal I removed And still leaked when I first ran washer So I took it back out and used a sealer [Permatex Indian Head gasket shellac compound from auto parts store] as recommended by one of the the repair techs on utube and it sealed it perfectly, just let it set op for about three hours and nice and dry now

Took the front cover off and tapped the motor on the old pump with the end of a screwdriver. The pump immediately started pumping,so, I knew it was the problem. Ordered the new pump and motor from PartSelect and received it in 2 days. Removed the old assembly and replaced it with the new one in less than 30 minutes per the video instructions on PartSelect's website. Wife is happy :) and I saved at least $100 bucks, probably more. Btw, a local appliance dealer where I bought the washer, wanted $63 for the pump/motor assembly and said it would take 4-5 days to get it. I paid $42 including shipping from PartSelect, and received it in 2 days!

removed front washer cover (2) clips at top released with straight screwdriver . removed washer top cover (2) 1/4" head screws that are behind front washer cover. Then removed screws holding tub dampening straps (4)5/16" head from agitation drum housing from top, removed other end of strap from under side (4) 1/4" head screws. then assembled with new straps in reverse order. easy repair nice and quiet again.

First i noticed a small leak coming from the pump assembly dripping onto the motor/pump bracket with indications that it had been doing this for some time.Looking @ this i then took the pump/motor assembly off cleaning the inlet and outlet of pump off so i could plug one side of the pump while blowing into the inlet side of the pump verifying that the gaskets around the pump assembly was in fact leaking.Replacement was very easy.Purchased a new pump/motor assembly from parts select and received it in three days.Used a flat tip screw driver to press on top front clips pulled away from front of washer then up and off.The pump/motor assembly only has two screws holding it down then i pulled off the electrical connector after that used channel locks to remove both inlet and outlet hoses off pump.Installed new. very easy

This was not hard to do.removed top screws and back plate screws. Water inlet valve has 3 screws and a hose clamp.this job was thirty min. tops.goes back together much faster then taking it apart.