WJSR2080T2WB General Electric Washer - Instructions

First removed front washer access panel.
Next: removed top panel torx screws and disconnected lid switch wiring connector
Next: removed washer top/lid
Next: removed inoperative lid switch (two phillips head screws)
Next: installed new lid switch and screws
Next: installed washer top and connected lid switch wire connector
Next: installed control panel and screws
Next: tested installation
Next: installed front washer access panel
Easy repair. FYI, Parts Select had best price and part arrived within two days of ordering! Highly recommend them for your parts.

The two tabs that went under a stamped area of the frame were broken off the timer allowing it to move away from its mount when the switch was depressed. The new timer took care of the problem. A shame that a perfectly good timer had to be trashed because the plastic tabs broke off probably because of too much pressure exerted on the timer button.

Front panel came off fairly easy then part just unplugged from main unit. It was very easy to fix. My wife first found the part at a Sears repair store and then started searching for the part for a lower cost. She came upon Part Select and found the part was not only lower but also the shipping time was less. After reading all the positive reviews we decided to give this company a try. She ordered the part on a Sunday afternoon and it was at our front door by Tuesday afternoon. We were so thrilled with the service and speed from PartSelect that we saved in our favorites. Would recommend this company to anyone.

The original problem was thought to be the timer as the washer would never start the spin cycle. After ordering the timer, I discovered that the problem was actually caused by the fact that I forgot to turn the cold tap water back on after I cleaned the cold water filter screen. The spin cycle does not start until after the tub fills with cold water and rinses the clothes! DUH!

However, while waiting for the new part to come in, I decided to open the old timer and inspect it. I noted that the switch contacts were pretty worn out and decided it would be best to replace the timer because of the age of the washer.

This is what I did:

1. Unplugged power from outlet.

2. Removed four torx head crews from across the top back side of control panel.

3. Tilt panel forward.

4. Note that the timer knob is held to the timer shaft with a plastic clip. You need long thin needle nose pliers to remove this clip. It pulls out and away from the shaft. Once that is done, you can pull the knob off in two pieces.

5. After the knob is off, you can disconnect the timer assembly using a nut driver. Remove the ground wire, disconnect the cable harness connector by squeezing in the locking tabs.

6. Install the new timer with single sheet metal screw, and reconnect cable connector.

7. Attach the ground wire.

8. Replace control knob and retaining clip.

9. Tilt back the control panel and replace the four torx head screws.

10. Plug washer back in.

11. MAKE SURE THE HOT and COLD WATER TAPS are TURNED ON. ;-)

12. Test washer. DONE.

Take off front. Take off top. Pull off agitator. Pull off agitator coupler, after removing bolt holding in place. Attempt to remove hub nut, no joy. Wound up cutting the nut with a Dremel tool and chiseling the nut off. Closer inspection revealed a bad transmission. Due to the cost of the transmission, we will continue to use the machine until it completely fails.

The first thought regarding the light rumble during the spin cycle is that the bearing was going bad. Many of the other inputs on replacing the bearing included the problem with removal of the Hub Nut. Only one article noted a set of assembly instruction for the washer is clipped onto the upper rear panel behind the control knobs, but I did not see this comment until later. Not being sure where to start with diassembling the washer, I began by taking off the control panel and to my pleasant surprise I found a neatly folded set of detailed instructions. Following the instructions, I proceeded to quickly disassemble the washer until I got to the HUB NUT. The Hub Nut is an aluminum, 1 -11/16 inch, left hand threaded problem. My tool selection is somewhat limited, so after unsuccessfully attaching it with grippers and vice grips, supported with the liberal aid of a rubber mallet and plenty of WD40, I went looking for something with which I could a better grip on the hub nut. The grippers and vice grips would slide a bit when hit with the mallet. Also since the space is very restricted, a large wrench could not be used. I located a 9-inch pipe wrench, and with the rubber mallet the Hub Nut finally loosened after just a few hits. I replaced the old bearing which appeared to be in fair condition. While replacing the bearing has not solved my noise problem, I thought that my experience with the pipe wrench benefit someone else in their efforts to get the hub nut off without using a chisel.

I was going to buy a new washer and dryer, then the opportunity came up to buy the house instead, so I opted for the repair. It was very simple. I had four small torx bolts to get to the control panel, a small screw that i took out with a nutdriver to take the timer out and a phillips head screw driver to loosen the ground. It was simple and quick, and very cheap, considering my options.

Removed control panel. Knob was difficult to remove and a wrench was used to remove. Connecting the wires to the new timer was easy