S2000D0WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

First I found out on the web how to open the washer's front cover.
For the strap in the front, it's relatively easy to replace a strep if your hands are somewhat flexible.
For the one in the back, I also needed to open the top dial panel, in order to lift the main lid connected to it, in order to then be able to reach one of the screws of the back strap. the other one of its screws I was able to reach from the front with a ratchet and extension from the front. Arms do get heavy from time to time, but overall it was manageable.

Very easy with your great instructions in my email. took the wires off,took the hoses off,then the two bolts,put the new one on and reasembled the hoeses wires and bolts. put the front back on and that was that. Your company is great thanks for all your help.If I ever need help again with any off my appliances i will call on you,agin thank you very much. Frank!

Ordered wrong part initially but received correct one and just put it on without a problem.. The return process was prompt and easy too!

Just pushed the knob on by hand and it was ready to start! It was great not having the extra expense of a house call! Thank you!

I purchased the part, watched the video that was embedded in the email I received, folllowed the instructions and was able to wash my laundry. It could not have been any easier unless the the part caem already installed. Thank you.

Watched the video, read installation instructions.
Replaced four broken dampening straps, washer is quiet and all is good.

I googled "water not draining washer" and found a video made by Partselect.com on youtube on how to replace the water pump for a washer. So, I went to their website and punched in the model number of the washer and found the water pump I needed in stock. It said it takes an average of 1.8 days for delivery. I ordered it on a Sunday and by Tuesday I had the part delivered to my front door. That night after work, I went down to the washer which I already had sitting face down on the floor with the back peeled off and the pump out from the weekend so I could compare how it looked with the online pictures. The new part came already mounted on a new bracket so it was just a matter of installing the bracket and hooking up the intake and output hoses. In order to make my job easier in the tight space, I removed the drain hose from the bottom of the wash basin by squeezing the pressure clamp with a large pair of adjustable pliers. I then installed the other end of the drain hose to the pump itself. I then hooked out the end of the output hose to the other part of the pump that pumps out the water to the sink. I first removed the clamp on the back of the washer that held the output hose to the back of the washer. That gave me more leverage to move the pump around for the installation. Once both hoses were clamped onto the pump, I used a ratchet socket wrench to install the two bracket bolts directly onto the base of the inside of the washer in the same holes using the same bolts as the old pump. Once that was tightly installed, I Hooked the other ends of the two hoses to the bottom of the wash basin and to the back of the washer respectively. FInally, I connected the ends of the two wires into the clips on the pump in the same order as the original pump. One white one black. Finally I screwed in all the short sheet metal screws that held the back washing machine cover on. It was about 12 screws. I then installed the drain hose with the original bracket to the back of the washer. Satisfied that everything was installed tightly, I stood the washer up and then hooked the water hoses back up to the faucets and tightened them snugly with the large adjustable wrench to ensure it did not leak. I plugged the washer back in, hooked the drain hose to the sink and then filled the basin up partially. Moved the control to the drain mode, and the water came out wonderfully. Note, when the pump was broken, I was able to drain most of the water from the wash basin by lowering the drain hose the a bucket on the floor and letting gravity do the work of draining it. I had to fill the bucket several times and dump it into the sink, before I was able to drain all the water out and then lay the washer face down on the floor to remove the back of the washer. Thanks for the part and quick delivery. I saved a lot of money on repairs by doing it myself.

removed back off washer, disconnected pump from washer tub, remove old pump in about 5 min, then installed new pump in less than 5 min. washer is working just fine wife thank me it was about 2 wks since the washer was down.

Removed front panal & operate to see leak origion. Found the side of the pump cracked and split. Part Select sent the exact replacement part! Unplug washer. Remove ront panal; using a putty knife and a bit of preasure at the two release clips. Using pliers or small vise grips, squeeze hose clamps and locate back out of the way and remove two hoses. Have a shallow pan below to catch remainig water. Unhook the electric connections, taking note of where. Using nut driver or small ratchet, remove the two mounting screws and pump. I used new screw type hose clamps in lieu of the originals.

The part came very fast and was easy to install, I pulled off the agitator and removed one bolt, replaced worn out part with new part and put the new bolt that came with the part in. Reatached the agitator and washed some clothes. done

Unpluged from out let. the I just took the front off then I took the bolts out of the mounting bracket and the took the hoses off unpluged the plug. We pluged the plug in the new piece put the hoses back on rebolted the braket down put the front on and plug the eletric back in and did the load thank you soo much

Removed the screws, pulled out the tall skinny thing that rotates, pulled out the broken part, ordered the new one, replaced it, (you have to push down until it snaps into place) Put everything back together and had clean laundry within 45 minutes. Anyone can replace this part.

As the video described. The two rear dampening straps holding screws were only accessible from underneath making their installation much more difficult than the front ones which were accessible from the top.

The repair was done as describe by others with the "hub nut" having to be cut off due to corrosion. Instructions for removal of the tub were found inside the control panel area on the left hand side. Ordering s new hub nut and cutting off the old one proved to be a necessity.

After doing some research on the problem I decided that the rubber tub dampers were probably the problem. Replacing them was simple and straight forward after watching the video. A test spin after installation revealed that the problem still existed. This time I watched the bottom of the tub with a flashlight as the spin cycle began and I discovered that the concrete counter-weight was loose on its platform. General Electric had attached a 5 lb concrete block to the tub support with two self tapping sheet metal screws that had stripped out. I screwed the screws back in and added two nuts to the protruding screw bottom and locked them together. Problem solved. The main difficulty in this repair is reaching to the back of the washing while laying on the floor. And sharp edges on everything.