WCRE6270DCCC General Electric Washer - Instructions

replaced them & working fine now....

With screwdriver, I removed screws holding old hose in place. Attached new hose and screwed into place.

First I took the bottom of the washer off so that I could get to the pump then I took a socket set to take the pump off. Then I put the new pump on and put the bottom of the washer back together.

Turned off the water and disconnected the water lines. Took of the control panal, only 4 screws and got access to the dual inlet water valve. Device removes with 2 screws and power connectors slide off. Reverse removal and your in business. So easy to do, part was an exact fit. Don't buy a new washer, fix your old one!

I removed the agitator by simply pulling up. I then removed one bolt to get the agitator coupler off. I installed the new coupler, replaced the bolt and slid the agitator back down.

Line up knob. Push on.

First buy the tub nut wrench. I can't over emphasize that! $12 at amazon. With out it getting the inner tub out will be the worst part of the job. And you will have to buy a new nut. I had trouble getting the old bearing out of the outer tub. I had to drive it out with a punch. The only other problem I had was after getting everything back together the new tub seal leaked. When I installed it if fit very loose on the OD. I ordered a new seal hoping it would fit tighter but it didn't so I coated the the seat of the tub and the OD of the seal with gasket shellac. That solved the problem. Working great.

The repair would have gone well, however partselect sent me the wrong part. Instead of a washer belt, they sent me a door seal to what looks like a refrigerator

The picture of how to depress the clips to remove the front was incorrect. The clips are 4" from the sides not immediately at the sides per the picture. The 4 rubber springs were only part of what was needed for the washer. The old gas dryer was still working. There are two more springs on the bottom of the tub missing not shown on diagrams, so it still sways side to side, bangs around and makes a lot of noise. After putting on the 4 rubber springs, it ran, but probably needed a new clutch also, because it wouldn't spin dry anymore. I ended up spending $2000 for new washer and dryer from Maytag, and throwing out these old machines today.

I had to take out the front panel to access the Tub. Afterward the work wasn't hard.

1) Researched internet for parts to make repair
2) Tested the cold side to make sure the only problem was the valve.
3) Ordered part from PartSelect
4) Made repairs after going to hardware store to purchase a set of torx bits to loosen the front panel so I can replace the dual valve assembly.

Only tools needed #1 Phillips and #15 Torx

I pulled up on the agitator with a quick upward jerk to remove the agitator, then I used a 7/16 socket to take the bolt out of the coupling, pulled up on the coupling and removed it. Took the new coupling sit it on top of the shaft, I turned the coupling slowly to line the grooves of the shaft to the grooves on the coupling, then I pushed the coupling down onto the shaft, put new bolt in the coupling and tightened it down, then I lined the agitator grooves up with the grooves on the coupling then pushed agitator down until it snapped in place on the coupling.

Ordered new pump on Sunday - replaced on Wednesday. Removed front washer panel with putty knife to release latches. Used pliers to disconnect hose clamps. Lots of paper towels to sop up water in bottom of washer and on floor. Unhooked electrical wires. Socket to remove pump. Reverse actions to replace pump. It's "plug and play"!

Could have removed debis in old pump. Kept it as a spare.
Replacement was simple , (two nuts) & (2 Lg. Hose Clamps) + two wires.
Dealer wanted $168.00 Labor + $67.00 for part!.

Replaced the plastic agitator coupler